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Engine Failure

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MattHwk   
Tue Jan 24 2012, 08:55pm
Joined: Sep 30 2010
Member No: #246
Location: Solihull
Hello all. I have had my car towed from the dealer after refusing to pay the estimated £800-£1000 to remove and strip the engine to attempt a diagnostic. A trusted independent has done the work and here are some photo's. To recap... car has covered 105k, last service at dealer 10 days before failure. I did not check the oil level pre/post failure until collecting from the dealer. When I did, after the car had sat at the dealer for a week the level was slightly over the max on the dipstick. Any thoughts / comments from the learned brethren ?
















C6Dave   
Tue Jan 24 2012, 10:17pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
So your saying that after the engine blew and left a pool of oil at the roadside and the car was recovered, the oil level was still over the max?
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MattHwk   
Tue Jan 24 2012, 10:40pm
Joined: Sep 30 2010
Member No: #246
Location: Solihull
Yes, although never a "pool". Perhaps my initial post where I described a "puddle" of oil was inaccurate. On reflection a large stain, although I had coasted for around a mile before finally pulling over in a safe spot. I have gone back and edited my 1st post.
BigJohnD   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 01:23am
Joined: Oct 30 2009
Member No: #9
Location: Hoylake
MattHwk wrote ...

Hello all. I have had my car towed from the dealer after refusing to pay the estimated £800-£1000 to remove and strip the engine to attempt a diagnostic. A trusted independent has done the work and here are some photo's. To recap... car has covered 105k, last service at dealer 10 days before failure. I did not check the oil level pre/post failure until collecting from the dealer. When I did, after the car had sat at the dealer for a week the level was slightly over the max on the dipstick. Any thoughts / comments from the learned brethren ?

Incredible. I can't believe than ten days previous there was no indication of all that twisted hardened metal.
C6Dave   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 07:28am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
MattHwk wrote ...

Yes, although never a "pool". Perhaps my initial post where I described a "puddle" of oil was inaccurate. On reflection a large stain, although I had coasted for around a mile before finally pulling over in a safe spot. I have gone back and edited my 1st post.

OK so if we can assume that the garage didn't overfill with oil (how you could confirm I don't know) then the other possibility is a leaking injector/injector seal allowing fuel to enter the sump, contaminating the oil and increasing the volume.

At the same time diluting the oil which in turn could have led to those big end bearings seizing causing the damage?
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gmerry   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 09:31am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Assuming Dave's hypothesis is correct (leaking injector/seal) allowing fuel to enter sump raising level and causing big end to seize, perhaps others might have a view as to whether the big end would show some signs of distress (ie thumping) rather than just an immediate seizure.

Is it worth sending the oil to a laboratory for analysis re fuel contaimination?

Re the coincidence of the failure so soon after the oil change, I think we all feel that there may be some element of blame on the garage (eg did they not smell / detec any high levels of diesel contamination) yet the real problem would be establishing the root cause of the problem and then proving some degree of negligence on their part.

Given that the engine has now been removed from the car (yes?), I would have though a way forward for someone would be to buy a brand new short block (Land Rover part number previously posted) and get this built up to a full engine.

Regards
G
gmerry   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 02:36pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Different Installation but same problem causing engine failure?

Our 2008 LR3 2.7L TDV6 SE's engine is stuffed. The main bearings got damaged due to, it seems, oil starvation. The vehichle has done approximately 140,000kms. The car was serviced as required by Land Rover or accredited LR Service Centres. Getting it fixed is extremely expensive, apparently Land Rover follows a black box approach - if it is broken they replace it. Thus, Land Rover can replace the broken engine with either a reconditioned or new unit at a COST! LR is not very willing to open the engine to determine what’s wrong!

A friend and I decided to open the engine ourselves to determine the damage. By removing the ladder frame carefully from underneath the engine we stripped of all the big end bearings and found signs of excessive heat on the top halves of three of the bearings. Some of the bottom big end bearings were slightly pitted. (due to dirt in the oil?????).

So, the condition of the big end bearings did not account for the initial heavy knock we experienced when the engine broke or the small metal pieces found in the sump thereafter.

However, the No.4 main bearing was damaged badly and one of the thrust washers is completely demolished and was found in pieces in the sump.

We suspect that the oil pump partially failed causing the damage and we will have it checked out. If the pump is ok I guess it could have been caused by either a blocked or leaking oil channel.

I am willing to recondition the engine myself with the help of very knowledgeable friends. In getting this done some challenges we found are:

1. We can’t get big end and main bearings from Land Rover or any other supplier in South Africa.

2. We have to remove the engine block and crankshaft to have it checked out for possible damage caused by the damaged main bearing and thrust washer. To get this done it seems we have to lift the body from the chassis.
So, I have to pose these questions:

1. Any idea where I can source main bearings and big end bearings from?

2. The Land Rover workshop manual explains how to disconnect the body from the chassis but how do one lift it? Are special chassis mounting brackets needed to lift it and where are the lifting points located on the body itself? I have the facilities to do the job but do I need a special lifting frame for the body?

I will appreciate any advice and tips.

Kind regards.
Marthinus.


Regards
G
C6Dave   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 03:51pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Regarding the last post G. Citroen won't sell a crank or bearings either, you have to buy a short engine.

Possibly they don't feel that the dealer network has the expertise to rebuild the bottom end (or are willing to warranty such work).

In the above instance, a good engine re conditioning specialist would be able to get the crank re ground and have new bearings made.
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gmerry   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 04:15pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Actually, the new short engines from Dagenham are pretty good value at around £1600 and probably not much more expensive than getting a crank ground IF it is suitable (may well be bent) and custom bearings made.

Willing to bet the LR short engine could be used (would be identical) and would be heeps cheaper than a PSA sourced one.

regards
G
Trainman   
Wed Jan 25 2012, 10:24pm

Joined: Apr 12 2010
Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham
Matt, This could be worth a punt - Click Here -
C6Dave   
Thu Jan 26 2012, 07:47am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Worth buying to break for spares if nothing else Steve.................
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Trainman   
Thu Jan 26 2012, 09:02am

Joined: Apr 12 2010
Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham
C6Dave wrote ...

Worth buying to break for spares if nothing else Steve.................


To be honest Dave, I think this could turn into a bit of a bun fight, I suspect there will be a number of late bidders.
David Hallworth   
Fri Jan 27 2012, 10:27pm

Joined: Apr 16 2010
Member No: #90
Location: Glasgow
There was a guy called DickieG from FrenchCarForum who went to see that blue C6 on eBay this morning...

Here's his findings below:

---------------------------
I went to see the C6 in question this morning, deep breath here we go,,,,

The seller claims he's selling it on behalf of a mate who bought it cheaply then was driving it home on the motorway when the engine "Stop light" illuminated followed by the engine cutting out, having waited for a while the engine restarted but then stopped and cannot been started since. He said he thinks it might need a head gasket sorting out, more info in that later. The original owner was Citroën UK with the present one on the V5 having owned it since 2008, it looks as if it was sold via Sportif in Chalfont to the person shown on the V5.

The last MOT was done in March 2010 @ 80k miles, the present mileage is 86k, there is just one receipt for a service @ 22k, no other history available apart from a sticker at the top of the windscreen from a minicab company stating "No Smoking", there are also additional wires hanging off the battery to substantiate the Minicab theory.

The car has obviously been sat around outside for a considerable length of time as the brake disc's are quite rusty, there is a large amount of bird droppings all over the car and,,,,,,,,,loads of chewed acorns under the bonnet right next to the ECU and on top of what looks like the MAF sensor showing evidence of a rodent infestation which is very worrying especially when you read further down this post!

The four tyres are very low on tread with both front one's showing wear on their inside edges looking as if they need immediate replacement, several of the wheels are scuffed with the O/S/F one having a chunk out of the rim presumably due to kerbing.

Exterior, paintwork generally looks good but the N/S/F window needs replacing as it has a large clouded area due to water ingress between the laminates, engine undertray missing as in lost, not simply just not fitted.

Interior is cream leather generally good but oily boots marks on the mats, seat leather generally good, drivers seatbelt quite dirty and the cloth covering the 'B' pillar has loads of ripples in it where the glue has failed, drivers window is partially open, car not under cover.

Battery is as flat as a pancake as even after connecting it up to my car with professional jump leads and leaving the engine running for 1/2 an hour it still couldn't light up an interior light.

I connected up my Lexia which was quite interesting, firstly there are literally loads of ECU's on C6's but rather worryingly the fault log was over filled several times over (unable to record any more) with the 359 faults it had logged

Loads of the faults related to every issue you could ever think of to do with the front and rear electric seats but more worrying were the permanent faults relating to various ECU's such as the ABS, BSI and several others not being unable to communicate with the Injection (engine) ECU especially bearing in mind the rodent infestation. I went through every ECU and recorded fault (took an hour!) but none of them looked obvious to me as being easy to spot as the cause for non starting, i.e no low fuel pressure faults.

The engine oil level is too high and looks very black, there is evidence of coolant under the radiator/front cross member with the header tank being dry of coolant, no obvious signs that I could see of a substantial oil leak due to say a hole in the crankcase.

Having left the car connected to mine on jump leads for some considerable time attempting to start the car merely causes a click of relays followed by the electrics shutting down completely, whether this is due to the completely flat battery or a seized engine causing the starter to stall I don't know without replacing the battery.

Someone has had a dabble at the engine as a few vacuum pipes have been taken off the engine and are thrown in the boot which is where the engine cover has been left.

I've spoken to a close friend in the trade who informs me that CAP trade on a good condition/working C6 of that age and mileage is £5k but bearing in mind that a new engine needs to be budgeted for in addition to a set of tyres, N/S/F window, battery, maybe disc's and pads plus replacement or repairs to engine looms due to rodents, so a huge money pit means the car must be worth,,,,,,,,,,,,


---------------------------------
Problem with buying it to break for spares is that there's so few C6's around it'd take you a long time to make your money back. It also sounds like that blue car needs a new engine.

David.
MattHwk   
Fri Jan 27 2012, 10:35pm
Joined: Sep 30 2010
Member No: #246
Location: Solihull
......must be worth......about as much as mine
tonyrome   
Sun Jan 29 2012, 09:30am
Joined: Nov 22 2009
Member No: #15
Steer very well clear, I think!
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