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Front Wheel bearing info required?
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gmerry   
Wed Apr 27 2016, 11:58am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi all, Sealey SX0271 kit arrived today and tool fitted up to the existing SKF? upper balljoint on the driver's side. I used a judicious amount of heat to hopefully loosen the aluminium to steel corrosion.

So as not to skew the tool and bind the threads, I then applied torque with a 24" pipe wrench around the Sealey tool - plenty of room for the wrench jaws. Tried to undo this, no way was it moving. I then applied a length of RHS over the handle of the pipe wrench, ended up with about 4' of leverage. This managed to get the thread moving in a controlled kind of way and then used the pipe wrench on its own. Eventually the ball joint came out without any damage to the alloy threads but a lot of white aluminium corrosion.

Fitting the new ball joint then got a bit interesting. The part supplied was a Febi pattern part and the problem was that the cutouts did not match the Sealey tool lugs. Too narrow, shallow and corners badly made. So it took a good 20minutes of hand filing to get the Febi part to OEM standard. Then fitting required a lot of thread lubrication with Ferrosol so that the alloy thread did not jam up.

Here's a reminder of the same job - Click Here -
and another
- Click Here -

Take it slowly on this job
G
keithc   
Wed Mar 28 2018, 04:48pm
Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare
 Would you recommend doing both sides if one side is gone? I've a wheel bearing gone on the driver's (right) side and pulling/tugging etc on the raised wheel on the passenger (left) side shows no problems. But getting a complete kit for the one side might show wear on the other? Car has 230k kms done and I can't remember anything being done before on the history I got with the car. I am driving it 18 months and have almost 40k kms done.
MGmike   
Wed Mar 28 2018, 08:06pm
Joined: May 21 2017
Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry
 Two schools of thought here;
1, one failing does not mean the other will
2, if they were in the same manufacturing batch they may have a similar life expectancy

I've had a bearing fail at 100k mls and on another car of the same make, model and age, 150k mls and still going strong!
Your money your choice. For me, I'd only do one and wait to see what happens.
Dan595   
Thu Mar 29 2018, 09:39am
Joined: Nov 26 2010
Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire
 I've had all wheel bearings done on my car (202,000 miles), all within the last couple of years.

- Went to around 160K miles on the originals
- the rears went first, and failed within about 15K miles of each other
- One of the fronts (I think the offside one) failed (or rather, ran smoothly but the noise drove me mad). Changed the whole hub.
- The nearside bearing didn't fail, but I had to have the hub changed as the spigot was a rattle-fit in the FRIP bearing


I don't see a reason to change both sides at the same time.
And the dealer was astonished at how cheap the hub assembly was.
cruiserphil   
Thu Mar 29 2018, 08:08pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Hello KeithC,

Dan595 refers to the fact that the whole hub assembly is so keenly priced that it's not worth the effort of changing the actual bearings themselves. If you buy a complete hub, order a new ABS sensor as well as it's very difficult to swap it over without damaging it? The hub also comes complete with a new lower swivel joint fitted.

Best regards,
Phil C.
Dan595   
Thu Apr 05 2018, 05:01pm
Joined: Nov 26 2010
Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire
 ABS sensors - cruiserphil is right, you won't get the old ones out so get new ones.

And get good ones!
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