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Should I Change Transmission Fluid??? |
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mikewalters66
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Evening All, I have a 2007 Lignage that has now done 87,000 miles and has given me 4 years of great pleasure along with the inevitable list of C6 standard faults and wear and tear requirements. I plan to keep the car for as long as possible and am thinking that a logical preventative measure would be to change the fluid in the auto transmission? I have no problems with the box currently but reading various articles on other sites I have seen that many people have changed fluid on this Toyota (aisin) derived box despite it being 'sealed for life' What do you all think? Should I go ahead or leave it be? My local Citroen dealer (Rigbys Eccleston, Lancashire) says they can do if I want. Grateful for your views and experience? Thanks Mike |
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Jodyone
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 Member No: #1240
Location: Cornwall |
I just did it today! I replaced 2550ml of it, following guides and comments on this site, with Comma ASW. I'll do it again in a week or so. I took my time, cleaned everything thoroughly, and still it didn't take long. - Click Here - I bought: a 17mm hex key bit, a T55 Torx bit, and a 5L measuring jug, above my usual tool kit. I had various pieces of hose around, and funnels, from which to fabricate a filling device (the filler neck is not easy to access, even after removing the air box). Otherwise, all was straightforward. I haven't yet worked out how to get the car level to check the ATF level (I've just replaced like-for-like). Now I know where the drain plug is, perhaps it'll suffice to just park the car somewhere level, put the suspension on high, chock it and fit axle stands, and wriggle underneath... not looking forward to that though. |
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C6Dave
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    Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
@mikewalters66 - there is a thread on this on site and the consensus was that yes, you should change the fluid. It can't realy be done all at once though due to the nature of the design. To change it thoroughly requires a drain and refill 3 times. Start by reading this thread - Click Here - |
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Problems are reported from around 80-100 000 km. I have decided to take a partial change/3 liters) each 50 000 km and the first one is just done. Never had problems (but a few days ago it refused to change down after accelleration for 30 seconds) | ||
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Rog
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What are the reported/expected problems to look out for? | ||
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Rog wrote ... What are the reported/expected problems to look out for? Poor/clunky gear changing due to sticking electrovalves in the gearbox. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi all, there multiple reasons to change (partial change) the transmission fluid but here are two:- 1/ The fluid degrades over time (loses the precise viscosity and friction properties) due to thermal breakdown. 2/ The fluid becomes contaminated with wear particles from the clutches. Changing the fluid gives an immediate reset of the fluid properties, especially the required precise friction properties, so that changes will become smoother. I do a partial fluid change at 12,000 miles and notice an improvement straight away. The fluid contaimination issue is to do with wear of the alloy housing for the electrovalves. Changing the fluid for this reason will defer the point when major repairs will be required. The "sealed for life" is perhaps "sealed for the duration of the manufacture's warranty". Regards G Note, a full flush/replacement of the full 7 litres of fluid including what is trapped in the torque convertor is in theory a better approach, if one has access to a trustworthy shop with a clean flushing machine and the correct adaptor |
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drummond
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 Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh |
I changed the gearbox oil at 25000 miles, with Mobil 3309. I went for 2 changes then, and drove the car for 10 miles between each change. I've now done 50000 míles and I will change the oil again. Cóst? £55, plus 2 sleepers! | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
This is why you should change the fluid, just to give these valves a chance of working correctly. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Another photo (source is Sussex Auto Transmissions)
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Jodyone
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Member No: #1240
Location: Cornwall |
I did the second change today. A lot quicker this time as I know where everything is. I took some pictures as I went, for anybody else to follow. The first is the oil level plug (Torx T??) and drain overflow plug (17mm hex), seen from underneath the car. The undertray is removed. Next is the oil filler plug (Torx T55), visible below the air box on the passenger side of the engine bay. The first picture is an overall view, the second a close up.   I used a couple of socket extensions to reach it, and a funnel and clear fuel hose to fill it. Here's the tools I needed:  I checked the level by overfilling by 400ml, driving around the block, then removing the oil level plug as per instructions. I had to do this on ramps as there's no way I could fit under the car just on high suspension (axle stands everywhere, obv) but my garage is on a bit of a slope, so the car was roughly level. However, exactly 400ml drained out, so I think it was pretty close to perfect already. I may be imagining it, but changes seem smoother now. I think gmerry worked out that two changes mean about 60% new fluid..? Well worth doing. |
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