gmerry wrote ...

Hi great that the forum shares the joys of ownership. Given that this is a very tricky job that an owner may only perform once in their lifetime, bulb changing needs to be approached with the right pre meditation and Zen! Thanks gbl for correction on what disconnects what - nothing at all like a halogen bulb change.

321dave wrote ...



Thanks Guys, brilliant sharing of help and tips!! I think I wouldn't have attempted the front suspension work recently if it wasn't for the help from everyone on the forum. I think the C6 will survive because the forum is very rich with very good advice.

I start timing belt tomorrow morning, and I'll keep everyone interrested posted on what I find. To be honest the car is going very well! I'm a bit nervous the surgery doesn't screw up something. But the belt change is getting very necessary now, just passed 125000mls and heading fast for 130000mls, but enjoying the car everyday.

gbl wrote ...

Hi gmerry: The cable connector actually ejects when rotating the "red/black ignitor thing", not when rotating the plastic ring.

I replaced both bulbs successfully with the headlights in situ (the LDS reservoir was removed).

Access is still very awkward, and it was really difficult to balance and maintain the new bulb in the exact correct spot while twisting the plastic ring back on. There is no spring action or similar to hold the bulb - it just hangs there really loose until secured by the plastic ring.

A small dot of white tipp-ex on the black plastic part of the bulb helped me to visually check that it stayed in the correct position.

So it can be done with extreme patience and steady hands. But I agree that it may be a safer path to success to remove the headlight units.

321dave wrote ...


I just thought of something Steve, when you did your timing belt recently, did you fit new bolts to the pulleys and tensioner? As the kit doesn't contain any. Or can they be reuse?

Thanks again

e3steve wrote ...

I re-used all fasteners, Dave. No new ones are included. My gast is still flabbered over the fact that I had one M6x40 hex-head machine screw left over...

gmerry wrote ...

Hi e3steve, did you make a special tool to lock the crankshaft? Apparently the access is tricky and it needs a tool with a very long handle to get it in position????.

Regards
G

e3steve wrote ...

Hi Gordon, no need to lock the crankshaft; there are six M8 reverse-Torx-headed screws which hold the pulley in place, and they crack off easily enough. I used a 60cm breaker-bar and a bi-hexagonal Imperial-size socket.

The same breaker-bar with a 21mm(?) socket was used to rotate the crankshaft.

Admin Dave wrote ...



Happened to me on the old C4, the seal between the top 'tank' and the core fails.

Either get it re cored professionally, or replace it completely.

Last thing you want is an overheated C6 engine due to coolant loss..........