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Another dreaded rusty coolant pipe slowly leaking at present! |
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cruiserphil
 
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    Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Dave, G is correct. The part is in the heater and hoses drawing (item 7). However, I get part no. 6466HA (Nov. 2011). Perhaps the part no. is changed G?  Your suggestion about getting the section of pipe remade is a good one. If there's no corrosion on the bulkhead end of the pipe, carefully cut the existing pipe (where I show in the download) leaving enough length for a flexible pipe and clip. Then you would not have to remove the bulkhead section. You can then easily unbolt the "straight (corroded)" section and unclip from the flexible pipe at the forward end and remove to use as a pattern to make a pipe. Then refitting this section is easy! In my case the bulkhead section was in good shape, but as I had bought the part I went ahead and changed the whole thing. In the interests of a speedy repair I didn't coat the section of new pipe exposed in the wheel arch with any further anti-corrosion protection as wisely advised by others. However, with the flexible connections at both ends now, I know that if I see signs of corrosion I can easily remove the pipe and treat it. Regards, Phil C. |
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drummond
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  Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh |
Citroen are good at this. There's a flexi on the DS between the heater matrix and the head, which is capable of being changed- with the engine out.A repair is possible, I'm told, but everyone looks elsewhere when it is mentioned. | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi G, many thanks for your help on the rusty pipe issue! I will hopefully have the time allocated next weekend to replacing the rusty coolant pipe with a new OEM pipe i purchased from Eurocarcare last week. Have the new pipe ready to go thanks to the great service from Big(Mick) at Eurocarcare. I have read all the posts you have kindly written up since warning about the rusty coolant pipe in 2010. I have also downloaded Cruiserphils tutorial (many thanks Phil) and have studied it well at this stage. The leaking pipe is currently holding steady, but I've had to keep topping up with coolant tank every second day. I'm assuming the pipe maybe leaking the most after the coolant/C6 is up to temperature? My question is that before I start the repair, should i purchase new bolts/nuts/clips/etc that hold the pipe in place when re-fitting the new pipe? or can I re-use the current bolts/clips holding the old pipe? I am also assuming I will need to cut the pipe to fit it back in place. My last question would be regarding the coolant. What is the best coolant to buy to replenish the system after repair? Oem Citroen coolant? I believe the full amount for the 2.7 engine is 13.2litres or will some old coolant still be present inside the engine? Thanks again, and i have attached a photo of the current part label that came with the pipe below. Kind regards 321Dave 
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
gmerry wrote ... Hi Gordon, mine had been suffering from a degree of seepage from the hoses just beneath the gearbox end of the lump. Both the hi-pres and the lo-pres (scavenge) hoses, where they're crimped to the hard-pipes.Hi Phil, whilst on the subject of leaking pipes, have you had to replace any of the power steering pipes/hoses? The lo-pres hose crimp is a cinch to replace, as it's an aluminium ferrule and is easy to snip off with a pair of strong sidecutters. The hi-pres is a different story; the ferrule is stainless steel! |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi the coolant question is easy: use BASF Glysantin G30. It will be the wrong colour but don't worry about that. (PSA get a special first fill G33 which is the same as G30 but different dye). Any good motor factor should have it in stock. Regarding any nuts, fittings etc, best to ask Phil or anyone who has done this job recently, I'm not sure if I can remember all the details back to 2010! Regards G |
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dsharples
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  Member No: #119
Location: Woodbridge |
I took a look at my water pipe today. Pictures attached. I couldn't really get a proper look as didn't remove the wheel-arch liner. But the pipe does look similar to the other photos. There is no leak at this time. For now, I've just sprayed some Wax/Oil Rustproofing onto the area for the time being. At least that might keep the worst of the salt off this winter. If I dismount the wheel for any reason, I'll pull the liner and take a better look.  |
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
321 Dave, No you shouldn't need any fixings and you can reuse the spring clips off the old part for the flexible insert. Regards and best of luck, Phil C. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Many thanks again for the reply G. I will report back if I can successfully get the work completed soon. One thing for sure, the pipe will be pretected with more than just black paint this time!! Maybe some sort of cover/sleeve over the exposed area inside the wheel arch would be a good idea? Or would the cover effect the temperature/circuit performance? Possibly upset heat transfer in some way? Was there a reason it was a metal pipe installed in such a way? and why was it exposed in the wheels arch area in the way it was going to corrode eventually? Interesting questions. Thanks again for the advice. regards 321dave |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi Phil, many thanks for the advice and support on this issue, and I will follow your tutorial carefully. The car is also showing a fair bit of corrosion below the engine and in other areas such as on top of the front doors with blistering paint showing. I will inspect the engine bay further when the work gets underway, and will post photographs if I spot anything rusting/leaking. Thanks again for the tutorial. Kind regards 321dave |
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ChrisW
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 Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
I know this is an old thread but I have just encountered this problem - puddle of red coolant on the garage floor. Put the car on ramps. Pinhole leaks from the corroded pipe. Could see that replacing the pipe would be a pig of a job so went for a quick and dirty fix. Two bottles of Radweld sealed the leak. Sprayed water on the pipe to remove surface antifreeze contamination. Used a hairdryer to dry and then plastered all of the corroded area with a thick layer of chemical metal (Big Boy High Temperature Metal Filler from Toolstation). It sets in about 20 minutes so you can build it up in layers. I've done about 500 miles since then with no problem. I've used chemical metal for many fixes (bodges, some might say!) and it has always been a permanent fix. It sets rock hard and is very tough. No need to remove wheel or any components or to drain system. One word of advice. It's a messy job so wear surgical gloves (preferably nitrile because it's strong) and clothes you are happy to throw away and an old hat. I got the stuff on my hair and my wife had to cut it off (not all of it but I have little to lose!) |
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Nikola
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 Member No: #3613
Location: Beograd |
Do someone have part list for 3.0 hdi It not same coolant hoses like on 2.7 |
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Xynactra
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Member No: #5035
Location: Switzerland |
Nikola wrote ... Do someone have part list for 3.0 hdi It not same coolant hoses like on 2.7 Vin? |
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cit-rotti
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Member No: #3753
Location: Bayern |
Hello, If you do not have access to the PSA Service Hotline, you can use the following link: - Click Here - or - Click Here - At Catcar, for newer models, the search is partly possible via the VIN - otherwise you have to search via the vehicle selection and engine, etc. Both use the exploded drawings from the Citroen Hotline. However, the part numbers are not up to date, but somewhat out of date. With the C6, this usually doesn't matter. Works well with Google Chrome and the appropriate language setting. It is important to note that not all hoses can be found under "cooling", but under heating/air conditioning. Greetings Wolfgang |
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ChrisW
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Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
After 15 months, the bodge I did (see above) started leaking and the job needed to be done properly. I took the car to my local (not main dealer) garage and the mechanic and I went through Cruiserphil's tutorial (thank you so much for this). A replacement pipe was unobtainable and we decided that the only solution was to cut the pipe as per the tutorial and to replace the corroded section with radiator hose and Jubilee clips. I asked him to replace the thermostat housing at the same time. Just as well as it fell apart when he removed it. Total cost £907 incl. VAT, which I thought was pretty reasonable, especially as he put anti-corrosion stuff on all the exposed metal. The original quote was £1100 because he thought the subframe needed to be lowered. This was not required. No leaks and, as the rubber won't corrode, this should be a permanent fix. A great mechanic and an honest garage! I will use them in future. |
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