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Want to hazard a guess at what's leaking here! ? |
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nickyg
 
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   Member No: #100
Location: Tyrone |
Sorry for the late reply gerry.. This job was (is!) not nice... Removed roller/pulley then belt, moved condensor out of the way, then dropped alternator as phils experience dictated would be the case. Once these were out I was able to get a much clearer eye on the plastic component, which revealed a tiny hairline fracture on that part along where it seems the two halves are manufatured and pressed together. I am now waiting on the new parts. A word of caution. The removal instructions for the accessories belt seems odd. I went straight for the dynamic tensioner, but after consulting the download instructions it asked me to go directly to the roller beneath and some nonsense about the using the same 4mm peg one would use when working with the dynamic tensioner (in reality there seems to be zero purpose in inserting the peg where they show, between belt and roller). In removing the roller I did get all freed up, but it did not seem natural, and am suspicious of how the more difficult reverse procedure will be when the time comes to put everything back in place. Have a look at the download and see what you think yourself. In addition there is a large diameter air intake pipe that should be completely removed for better access if ever doing work involving the ancillaries, condensor and/or alternator, as it makes a world of difference (again, not on the instructions) mine cracked trying to ask too much of it having released it from the bottom of the radiator only, but was extremely brittle and hard at certain points so I don't mind replacing or repairing this time. Also on my parts breakdown, which you have also posted above, it clearly shows one screw affixed from intake part to block There are TWO on the intake part, you will see on the drawing where that second one should be instructed to go. Centred above the two ports. Only for me using my phone and bright led flash to take a picture as a rudimentary endoscope I may be still prising at that part now! The plastic intake separated totally along the hairline, and then the seam in its entirety when forcing it out. I actually still need to release a clip from hose to intake to release the remnants before fitting the new part when it comes. It isn't the jubilees but another type that are extremely awkward. It seems that a screwdriver should prise or "unlock" them open, but that method was met with a good deal of resistance... Has anybody any tips on the simple/correct way to open and close these for future reference.. Perhaps a special closer or crimper type tool? Thanks. (Edit: tried a few different methods and found that a good quality adjustable pipe wrench with nice sharp teeth works beautifully to compress the spring loaded design elements of the clip, if the access allows) Ps. gmerry, I understand you will be curious as to whether we can exclude the water pump, as an indicator as to its longevity and will let you know how succesful my repair is, or if I can still find water escaping (which would definitely indicate towards the pump). The pulley, and thus bearing of the pump, seems fine, I must say. Let me know what you think of some of the issues I've mentioned above, guys. Cheers, Nicky. |
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cruiserphil
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   Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
NickyG, Yes, when removing the auxiliary belt I reckoned as well that it was best to remove the air intake pipe coming from the intercooler to the inlet manifold as it gives so much room. I presume the two bolts you're referring to are the ones that secure the collar around the top end of the pipe. I removed the housing fitted to the inlet manifold that the pipe fits into at the top of the engine by pulling the securing circlip. This gives better access to the two bolts but they're still awkward to remove. I also refitted the pipe and secured it before refitting the housing. As regards, you're comments about removing the auxiliary belt I'm a bit confused. The instructions I used showed compressing the dynamic tensioner spring using a socket fitted to the tensioner pulley bolt and levering the tensioning pulley clockwise. When you do this, the spindle running through the compression spring moves down and exposes two locking holes beneath the lower spring seat. As I was working on my own, when I got the compression, I wedged the socket ratchet using a piece of timber. You can then access the locking holes from the wheel arch. I used a piece of coat hanger wire and bent a 10mm L which I inserted into the locking hole. Then the socket can be removed and the tensioner remains compressed. You have to remove the tensioner if you want to remove the belt (leaving the tensioner locked until you refit the belt). If I remember correctly, you need to remove the fixed pulley for access to either one of the air con compressor or alternator mounting bolts. When refitting the auxiliary belt, I fitted a new belt and of course found it tight to fit. What I found handy was to fit the belt to all pulleys and fit to the water pump pulley last. The water pump pulley has no grooves or lip. You can get the belt started on this pulley and then if you rotate the engine crankshaft pulley you can guide the belt on. Then you compress the tensioner using a socket and ratchet (or T bar) and remove the locking pin/wire. Then release the tensioner and all should be well. As I said in another post, I didn't think of taking photos of the process when I was changing the alternator on the 07 car until I had it nearly finished. I have my pulley for the 06 car alternator so when I get to change this I'll take some photos of the process. Hope this helps, Regards, Phil C. |
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
P.S. Forgot to say that when I was changing the alternator the most time consuming part of the job was removing that air intake pipe!! However Nicky G. keep the faith! | ||
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
I just had a look at the auxiliary belt instruction in the download section but this does not appear to be the one for the 2.7 HDI. Regards, Phil C. |
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nickyg
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Member No: #100
Location: Tyrone |
Thanks for the reply Phil! As I suspected.. Removing the auxiliary belt using these instructions did not seem natural at all. Its essentially going straight in at a fixed pulley and screwing it off. Like you I immediately went straight for the dynamic tensioner, armed with a peg I had made but upon printing out the instructions from the download section I went against my own instinct and by the book. I'll write in big letters here to warn others, as I think it is only down to good fortune that I didn't damage threads or other items this way: THESE DOWNLOAD INSTRUCTIONS ARE MISLEADING AND POTENTIALLY COUNTER PRODUCTIVE! DO IT THE WAY PHIL TELLS YOU! I know the two bolts on the clip you are referring to regarding the upper air intake pipe (but my original message there wasn't regarding them, it was a warning that the plastic water intake part bolts to the block with 2 screws, not the one screw instructed by the parts diagram that gmerry has kindly posted). Regarding the air intake I actually just released those two screws and loosened the jubilee and there is a nice hard spot on the upper lip of the hose to accept a long punch/screwdriver and tap the hose downwards and off the housing. The pipe initially broke when manhandling it released at radiator end only and moving the condensor but I have now repaired it, ready for refitting when my water intake part arrives. Phil, the air pipe job was actually pleasurable compared to getting the water intake part removed!  Though your previous helpful contributions to the forum regarding your alternator pulley gave me the confidence that this was a preferable route in, rather than taking bumper, support, fan and radiator off. Cheers! Ps. My alternator clutch/pully seems healthy but, as you say, it's not too taxing to replace if one has the 20 quid sealey tool. Nicky |
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Nicky, That's grand. After posting I realised reading your post again that the screws related to the water manifold. Best of luck with the reassembly. Regards, Phil C. |
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travlician
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 Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
Just found out this week I have the same problem, the intake tank is leaking. Found out 2 days after my parts for yearly service (and some other) were shipped from France so will have to order the part and wait 2-3 weeks ;( (or is any of you guys coming to Aruba these days?) I did not find the part number on this site (it is 1336Y2). What I did find is the Jaguar setup, unfortunately a different (Aluminum version available) part that takes the hoses on another angle so no use. Thanks for the great description in the download section on how to replace this, that will help me a lot! |
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