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Tightening torque values for the timing belt tenioner & pulley assembly
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321dave   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 05:55pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi Admin Dave,
i was wondering if you had a PDF with the tightening torque values for the timing belt tensioner and pulley assembly. Thanks again.

kind regards
321Dave
C6Dave   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 07:22pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
 Thought that had been asked for before and was in the Tech Doc Archive?

If not it will be in the Mechanics guide.

I can't look tonight though I'm afraid.
Website
321dave   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 08:47pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Admin Dave wrote ...

Thought that had been asked for before and was in the Tech Doc Archive?

If not it will be in the Mechanics guide.

I can't look tonight though I'm afraid.


Thanks Dave. I'll go back and have another look, In case I missed something.
Cisco   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 09:15pm
Joined: Sep 10 2013
Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow
 Dave, Relevant torques on page 38 of "mechanics guide":

Guide roller 45nm; Tensioning roller 26nm.

ATB

Frank
321dave   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 09:24pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Cisco wrote ...

Dave, Relevant torques on page 38 of "mechanics guide":

Guide roller 45nm; Tensioning roller 26nm.

ATB

Frank


My mistake, thanks, found them.
321dave   
Fri Apr 15 2016, 04:37pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi all,
Started the timing belt change early this morning (finally) and this was after fixing the fractured old inlet tank last weekend which delayed the timing belt again. .

Anyway, I followed all the advice tips with thanks form all the forum member and in particular many thanks to e3steve with his advice and photos.

My timing belt was looked perfect in fact( but looks can , and all the rollers and tensioner were in perfect condition. I found my only issue was a creaking clutch pulley on the alternator. But I'll look at that later on.

My only question regards the timing belt itself and its position on the cam pulley amongst others.
I was worried it wasn't centered on the cam pulley on the front bank of cylinders!

But I'm wondering will the belt position itself where it wants to sit when the engine is turned over with its own power? I'll try and post a picture again. My photos from the iPad are a problem to attach!

cruiserphil   
Fri Apr 15 2016, 05:49pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 321Dave,
Have you turned the engine a few rotations by hand to see how it aligns?
Best regards,
Phil C.
321dave   
Fri Apr 15 2016, 09:40pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
cruiserphil wrote ...

321Dave,
Have you turned the engine a few rotations by hand to see how it aligns?
Best regards,
Phil C.


Hi Phil,
I did and the timing marks I placed on the various cams all lined up again afterwards and the pins went back in to the slots for the timing fine, but when I tensioned the tensioner pulley it almost seemed to pull the belt from the center for the cam pulley. If that makes any sense. Pity I have the iPad image posting problem as it would be fine on the laptop or office computer. I could email you an image Phil.

321dave   
Sat Apr 16 2016, 04:20pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Did you get the chance yourself to tackle the timing belt on the 07 C6 Phil?
cruiserphil   
Tue Apr 19 2016, 08:33am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 321dave,

Not yet. For a little later in the year. Running very well as we speak. Landcruiser is getting some well deserved TLC at the moment.

Best regards,

Phil C.
321dave   
Tue Apr 19 2016, 11:15am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi Phil,
all went well. All back together as of Sunday night and running well. Only slight issue is very small coolant leak near the engine mount. Im assuming its the outlet tank housing or one of the durite hoses leading into it is leaking a little. But it was drops per hour rather than any major failure.





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321dave   
Tue Apr 19 2016, 11:19am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Many thanks e3steve as well for the great help to the forum!! The tutorials were very good and supportive. Many thanks. Much appreciated.
cruiserphil   
Tue Apr 19 2016, 01:25pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Well done Dave!
speedfix   
Tue Apr 19 2016, 08:16pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 "Only slight issue is very small coolant leak near the engine mount. Im assuming its the outlet tank housing or one of the durite hoses leading into it is leaking a little. But it was drops per hour rather than any major failure."

IMO any coolant leak on a C6 cooling system is a major problem however small.

On the coolant system cooling down a vacuum is created and any leak will draw air into the system and will not self bleed out.

After time and with the water level in the header tank in some cases still showing ok the system gives up with sudden alarming results.
321dave   
Wed Apr 20 2016, 01:43am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi speedfix
I agree, I knew there was an issue with the coolant as I have a Sealey kit for eliminating air after filling up the coolant. I could see after doing the bleeding process I was still getting air bubbles. I have ordered two durite hoses for the system and will replace these and try again when they arrive.

So I've replaced :

1. radiator (small leak, top of tank core)
2. Inlet coolant tank (just broke at the o ring, major leak)
3. Outlet coolant tank, (because just in case)
4. Rusty heater matrix pipe(famous rusty metal pipe near gearbox end, on the passenger side. Leaking slightly when car was bought, but getting worse by the week. New pipe fitted all good now.

5. Next up some old durite hoses. One at a time till the system finally seals.

Bit by bit I'm slowly closing in on the coolant circuits many weaknesses. But as some others on the forum have done. The best thing to do with the C6 coolant circuit on an older C6 is to start to renovate the circuit so it becomes reliable again, otherwise it will become stressful and a bit of a constant topup problem.

 

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