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Replacing C6 rear wheel hub bearing |
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travlician
 
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   Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
I got a lot of noise (drowning sound) from my RH rear wheel, starting at about 35 km/h. Initially I thought it would be the tire(s) but since I replaced these last week the noise continues. Turning the rear RH wheel manually when jacked up produces significantly more noise than the LH wheel. A few questions: 1) I can not find any repair instructions on my DVD (Citroen backup repair manual), nor on this site. I assume its removing the brake disk (which is described), remove the hub bolt and then take of the hub that need to be replaced completely. 2) How dangerous is it to keep on driving until I get the part (should take like 3 weeks, the noise is going on for months already but is getting worse and starts a lower speeds)? 3) Is it OK to just replace the noisy HUB or should I replace both? You ideas are highly appreciated. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
The C6 has a separate hub and disk system (I've replaced the rear disks so know this from personal experience). Travlican: the hubs can make a lot of noice before complete failure so I would continue to use the car within reason until the new hub(s) arrive. In theory, best to replace all items in pairs across axles. I had to replace a front wheel bearing on a C4 and sure enough the other side went about 9 months later. You will need the rear hub nut torque setting to properly pre-load the bearing (I'll take a look in the mechanics guide and see what it says there). Regards G |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Travlican, from mechanics guide: Rear hub bearing nut torque is 250+/-20 Nm. For such large torques I always use 3/4" drive tooling. You will probably need a torque reaction bar to avoid all the forces going through the suspension linkages. Stand on set of scales and calculate the torque from the change in the scale reading x the length of the breaker bar. Regards G |
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
Thanks all for the input. Gmerry, I already had that data (25 mdaN which is 250 NM) and I always use the method of calulating the distance and my weight, nice to see similar methods are thought of independently. I do have the 3/4 drive stuff, only no 40mm socket but already verified I could lose the nut with a 41 mm socket and fillers (trick learned in CX period as this used a unusual bolt size (Ik think 35mm where usually it steps from 34 to 36). For Dave: brake disk and bearing are sparate, I already ordered the bearings. Still no reference to a manual? |
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C6Dave
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  Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
travlician wrote ... For Dave: brake disk and bearing are separate, I already ordered the bearings. Still no reference to a manual? C6 Rear Hub Bearing removal and refitting guide: - Click Here - |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Dave, Travlician. Bearing splitter/extractor to remove the hub looks like a standard piece of tooling. For the installation tooling, let us know how you get on (workaround, make your own tooling, island garage etc). With the magnetic target being built into the bearing seal, installation with a hammmer might not be a good idea! (sorry here for granny, eggs and sucking). Regards G |
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
Called post office Friday, need another week to get the bearings. Since noise had increased and started at 20kmph decided not to drive the car like that anymore. Saturday I removed the bearing, which went rather smooth using a 3 arm puller. BTW when using a tool like that there is no need to remove the ABS sensor which usually breaks when removing! The inner-inner race (this is a double bearing..) remained in first instance but could also be pulled the same way as the first part of the bearing. Damage assessment: 3 burn spots on the inner-inner race, 1 ball of the inner bearing with substantial surface damage and a seal that's partly ripped. Cleaned out the bearing, lots of metal parts (dust size particles) in the left over grease (most had gone out through the damaged seal). Since the inner-inner bearing race damage was on the lower point of the bearing, decided to put is 180 degrees turned. Put new grease in, put some flexible gasket on the seal and put it all back in place. Result this morning: no noise at all from the bearing (tested only to 80kmph, the legal limit here). Next weekend I will repeat the 3 hour job but place the new bearing at that time... |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Well at least you now know a new bearing is required 
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
Finally got the bearings last Friday, put them on yesterday. Straightforward job, took me 3 hours total (for both sides). Used a simple three arm puller to get the old ones off, pressed the new bearing on the axle using a wood clamp. So in the end no special tools needed (eh, that is to say, if a 40mm socket and Torx-55 are considered standard equipment...) Also got the new brake switch, 5 minutes replacement job Thanx for the ideas and docs! |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
travlician wrote ... Also got the new brake switch, 5 minutes replacement job Thanx for the ideas and docs! Hopefully it resolves any issues you had. As for the 'special' tooling that Citroen recommend, that's for garages to speed up repair times. Anyone used to doing their own maintenance (especially on older cars) will know how to get around the issue/make there own tools where time isn't really an issue |
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josok
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  Member No: #1222
Location: Ukonjärventie 141 99800 Ivalo |
Sorry, it's an older story, but new for me. Maybe i heard some noise before. Difficult to tell with studded tyres and a not so evenly scraped icy road. Changed the left rear bearing today, will do the right one later. My question to the experts here is, did the inner race break because the balls were damaged, or vice versa? The car has been standing for 5 days waiting for parts, so some rust may have apperead in that period. Miracally the scrap missed the abs sensor!   
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Looks like you were lucky the wheel did not come adrift. Must have been pretty dramatic. I'm guessing the race and balls would have equally been shot, but usually the race starts fatiguing/pitting before the balls. Usually this is down to loss of grease and/or dirt ingress, both caused by the seal failure. Regards G |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Sealed bearings are supposedly 'progress' as you don't have to service them but, they are not all that reliable as people are finding out. | ||
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
The ONLY thing that has happened to my C6 was a bearing (front) that lost grease. Probably because I used the car as a submarine through ice/snow/water, but if I could grease the bearing, propably it had survived. The DS had HUGE (25 cm ?) wheel bearings, I was always afraid that they should fail. Never did, because they could be greased. | ||
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josok
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Member No: #1222
Location: Ukonjärventie 141 99800 Ivalo |
Did the right hand side today, and just in time too. The balls were becoming square. Now the car is roaring silent once more. This bearing was intact, and also the seal looked just fine. And inside the dust cap was water. Makes me wonder... There is quite an amount of air trapped inside that bearing, hollow stub and all. That air will on heating expand and force it's way out through the seal. The bad part is when cooling down, it will suck water and dirt in through the seal. I will now drill a very small ventilation hole in the dust cap. Maybe it will keep the water out. |
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