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How much cooling fluid???

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stefan063   
Fri Oct 26 2012, 02:35pm
Joined: Jun 27 2012
Member No: #918
Location: Serbia
Can you tell me how much cooling fluids need for my 2007 2.7 V6 HDI? And It would be extra if you give me some pdf where I can see all fluid amount for my car?
C6Dave   
Fri Oct 26 2012, 06:03pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Why?

It's filled for life and doesn't require changing.
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speedfix   
Fri Oct 26 2012, 09:26pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
The amount of coolant in the 2.7L is 13.2 litres, a mix of 50/50 do for starters however for cooler climates the mix could be increased but the coolant properties will be less efective.

Types that can and cannot be used IE, IAT OAT HOAT or EG

The coolant amounts for the 3.0LHDI are 11.3 Litres
and the 2.2LHDI are 9.7 litres.
Tjensen   
Fri Oct 26 2012, 10:54pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
Can you explain : Types that can and cannot be used IE, IAT OAT HOAT or EG ??

C6Dave   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 09:52am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Tjensen wrote ...

Can you explain : Types that can and cannot be used IE, IAT OAT HOAT or EG ??



This FAQ explains: - Click Here -
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Tjensen   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 10:23am
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
Thanks.

Read it before and again now. Very good general information, but still I lack the crucial: What kind/brand names could I buy for topping up ? And if it should be changed after X years, how to check that the garage is using the right thing ?

and another: Is this "filled for life" sound advice or should we change after 4 (?) years.
gmerry   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 12:53pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
You should ONLY use BASF Glysantin G33 (Specific for PSA vehicles).

In the UK, Comma distribute.

Regards
G
speedfix   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 03:49pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
Is this "filled for life" sound advice or should we change after 4 (?) years.

IMO after the 100,000 cam belt change with new water pump the system should be rev-flushed[thermostat change] and coolant refilled with distilled water with an OAT long life type antifreeze like "Q8 longlife".
After the 100,000 miles changing the coolant every four years would be benifical a time that Q8 reccomend.

For those unlucky to have to change the coolant due to accident damage etc before the first 100,000 I would still change every four years.

"You should ONLY use BASF Glysantin G30"
Should this now be G33?
speedfix   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 03:54pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
IMO it is never a good idea to top up [mix] with one type manufactures product with another, start over with a complete flushed system.
drummond   
Sat Oct 27 2012, 06:59pm
Joined: Sep 20 2010
Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh
Why is that, Gerry? What has changed within the car's life that makes only one coolant do the trick? And what about waterless (used in the Light 15, but not in the Traction or the DS)- the future, in my opinion, with pressurised systems.

Tim
gmerry   
Sun Oct 28 2012, 01:57pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Drummond, PSA specify G33 (ONLY) for their vehicles.

Unless we are going to re-evaluate the complete water chemistry / materials best to stick with PSA's specification.

By the way, G33 is not particularly expensive or hard to get (in the UK)so why would anyone to use something out of spec unless through sheer blo*&y mindness.

Not sure how the Light 15 argument comes into it, but water based coolants still have the best heat capacity of any fluid so that makes them hard to beat. Yes I'm aware of different non-toxic glycols being used as anti-freeze mixtures (think central heating fluids).

Regards
G
C6Dave   
Sun Oct 28 2012, 02:41pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
gmerry wrote ...

Yes I'm aware of different non-toxic glycols being used as anti-freeze mixtures (think central heating fluids).

Regards
G

Basically Fernox is being used more and more in Classic Cars G as it's less likely to damage paintwork etc. etc. which is where I think Drummond is coming from
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speedfix   
Sun Oct 28 2012, 06:23pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
Spec for the Q8 longlife for PSA vehicles.

•PSA B715110

Benefits

•Provides long life protection against all forms of corrosion
•Reduces repairs of thermostat, radiator and water pump thus cost and downtime
•Improved hard water stability due to the absence of silicates and phosphates
•One product for passenger cars, commercial vehicles, buses and stationary engines
•Effectively protects aluminium against high temperature corrosion
•Synergistic effects provides superior and extended corrosion protection
•Prevents cavitation corrosion even without coolant supplements
•The corrosion inhibitor package is environmentally friendly

Properties Method Units inspection Data

Density, 15 °C

D 1122

kg/m3 1.116

Freezing Protection 50/50%

D 1177

°C-38

Freezing Protection 33/67%

D 1177

°C-18

Colour - Visual Orange-red

Fernox for classics, how do the water pump seals cope if the vehicle is not used for 6 months.

Anyone used a small added amount of machine milling fluid to the E Glyco types?


C6Dave   
Sun Oct 28 2012, 07:26pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
speedfix wrote ...


Fernox for classics, how do the water pump seals cope if the vehicle is not used for 6 months.


Classics are for driving, not sitting in a museum as far as I'm concerned so it does get used
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speedfix   
Sun Oct 28 2012, 08:11pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
Classics are for driving, not sitting in a museum as far as I'm concerned so it does get used


Agreed, however many classics are laid up for 6 months through out the winter months, have already had the dreaded salt applied to the wet roads in the SW!
How about the fernox with any water pump issues?
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