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Diesel Additive for DPF Filter not Required for C6 |
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321dave
 
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   Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
321dave wrote ... 321dave wrote ... Admin Dave wrote ... Anyway, I'll describe it best I can. Where the plastic top meets the metal rad it seems to be wet around that area. Happened to me on the old C4, the seal between the top 'tank' and the core fails. Either get it re cored professionally, or replace it completely. Last thing you want is an overheated C6 engine due to coolant loss.......... Thanks Dave, I'm going to get a new rad I think. At least I know where I think it's leaking. Seems likely. I bought all the other usually suspects. Also the swirl value clip that Steve mentioned earlier( holds the swirl valve small bore pipes together) were already broken before I laid a finger on them. Someone else before me broke them and just left them under the sound insulation cover. Wonder what else I'll find. Found some disturbing looking dried foam coloured material near the heads? Will try putting images up again later on.  A few more photos below. Thanks for any advice.   |
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Hmmm, can't think what that yellow dust could be (apart from yellow dust...). Perhaps the heat/sound insulation's fabric has started decaying, allowing the core material to decompose and turn to dust? I have some of that split, slip-over conduit if you're considering replacing; I can send you some. It becomes very embrittled by the heat and just falls apart! I vacuumed around the top of the engine whilst squeezing and pinching the material, as it makes a helluva mess. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... Hmmm, can't think what that yellow dust could be (apart from yellow dust...). Perhaps the heat/sound insulation's fabric has started decaying, allowing the core material to decompose and turn to dust? I have some of that split, slip-over conduit if you're considering replacing; I can send you some. It becomes very embrittled by the heat and just falls apart! I vacuumed around the top of the engine whilst squeezing and pinching the material, as it makes a helluva mess. Hi Steve, i must get the small hoover ready for my next attempt. Im going to fit a new Rad €324 or recon €200 from France. Im goin to ask the dealers here how much as well. Might as well do everything at once. Do you think its a better way to do things, ill need to flush the coolant anyway for the water pump, might as well do the rad at the same time. I was thinking the creamy coloured stuff in the photo below might have been a headgasket or oil/water mixture? maybe thats the beige coloured dry stuff found around the top of the engine? its a bit stange. Its in a recess with a bolt( it hink its for bolting the head on) Ive noticed one very clean new looking pipe, not sure where is coming from or going to. Thanks again Steve for the advice. 
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Not a head stud/nut, Dave; that's one of the airbox fasteners. I'd say that's nothing to worry about, as anything could have ended up down there in that recess. It certainly won't have come from below, as that would be black, sooty crud if it had! Personally? I'd be inclined to save €124 and go for the re-cored rad. I use this - Click Here - Comma coolant; no water. Ever... |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... Not a head stud/nut, Dave; that's one of the airbox fasteners. I'd say that's nothing to worry about, as anything could have ended up down there in that recess. It certainly won't have come from below, as that would be black, sooty crud if it had! Personally? I'd be inclined to save €124 and go for the re-cored rad. I use this - Click Here - Comma coolant; no water. Ever... Thanks Steve. That's a relief! I was thinking of getting the recon one. I'll be getting prices back in the morning from the dealer as well. I'm using Halfords G30 ready mix for topping up as I go at the moment, I think it's possible to see the red coolant colour on the paper I put near the leak) but will be happy to end the leak issue finally. Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated. I'll keep posting up photos when I get back to working on the car.  |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
On the coolant subject: I've had the pong of it, when she's hot and I turn off the engine, for about eighteen months. I've inspected around the engine bay with a bright light; the painted steel pipe beneath the gearbox end of the powertrain is in excellent order. There are now no drips or witness marks anywhere, not now I've replaced the outlet tank ('stat housing!), one of said tank's associated hoses which was weeping, and the inlet tank ass'y. The coolant level now stays where it should, with no drop in level in the header (de-gassing) tank. Yet I still get this hot coolant smell after switching off when the engine's up to temp! |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
321Dave, regarding your radiator replacement: from the Nissens catalogue, the Nissens OEM part number is 63619 and these are on sale in the UK for about £140 pounds NEW. There are common with C5 models so readily available. Not sure why anyone would want to recore this kind of technology especially for this price! Regards G |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
gmerry wrote ... 321Dave, regarding your radiator replacement: from the Nissens catalogue, the Nissens OEM part number is 63619 and these are on sale in the UK for about £140 pounds NEW. There are common with C5 models so readily available. Not sure why anyone would want to recore this kind of technology especially for this price! Regards G That's interesting Steve, I guess if your level is staying good all should be fine or maybe it's the degassing tanks old cap design letting coolant vapour/smell out into the engine bay. But if it's stored for 18mths thats a bit of a head scratch. Thanks G, I found that on the Mister-auto website yesterday. They have a NRF rad for the C6 for €124 and the Nissens rad for €173. Apparently NRF do Caterpillar heavy plant radiators for construction machinery, so they all appear fairly good, but I was thinking of getting the Nissen rad ( apparently quite good). My local a Citroen dealer quoted €368 for a new rad from Citroen and €195 for a re-cored rad. Non available in the Uk at present I was told. The other rads are in stock and available. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
321dave wrote ... gmerry wrote ... 321Dave, regarding your radiator replacement: from the Nissens catalogue, the Nissens OEM part number is 63619 and these are on sale in the UK for about £140 pounds NEW. There are common with C5 models so readily available. Not sure why anyone would want to recore this kind of technology especially for this price! Regards G That's interesting Steve, I guess if your level is staying good all should be fine or maybe it's the degassing tanks old cap design letting coolant vapour/smell out into the engine bay. But if it's stored for 18mths thats a bit of a head scratch. Thanks G, I found that on the Mister-auto website yesterday. They have a NRF rad for the C6 for €124 and the Nissens rad for €173. Apparently NRF do Caterpillar heavy plant radiators for construction machinery, so they all appear fairly good, but I was thinking of getting the Nissen rad ( apparently quite good). My local a Citroen dealer quoted €368 for a new rad from Citroen and €195 for a re-cored rad. Non available in the Uk at present I was told. The other rads are in stock and available. Do you guys know if a PDF exists in the download section (searched but couldn't find one) with instructions for how to remove the radiator. Thanks again. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi 321Dave, Nissens manufacture radiators and sell them to car manufacturers for original specification and build. Citroen design and assembly cars not radiators. You will find the Citroen radiator will be a Nissens in a different box. Regards G |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
gmerry wrote ... Hi 321Dave, Nissens manufacture radiators and sell them to car manufacturers for original specification and build. Citroen design and assembly cars not radiators. You will find the Citroen radiator will be a Nissens in a different box. Regards G Cheers G, I'll try the nissens rad and get it ordered tomorrow. Thanks again for the advice and information. I think there was a thread on the forum also regarding the radiator removal process, possibility by Cruiserphil, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Thanks again |
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Dan595
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 Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
FAP additive low warning has just come up on my car - 162,000 miles. I know that it has not been re-filled before so I can't complain too much. Looking to do the job myself - any tips from Cisco or others that have done it? Many thanks - |
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Cisco
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 Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow |
Dan595 wrote ... FAP additive low warning has just come up on my car - 162,000 miles. I know that it has not been re-filled before so I can't complain too much. Looking to do the job myself - any tips from Cisco or others that have done it? Many thanks - Hi Dan, It's an easy, half hour job if you buy the connection kit with the refill. Jack the car safely remembering to vent the suspension fluid reservoir, LHR wheel off and you should just have access to disconnect the quick disconnect pipe from the Eolys tank and connect same to your refill bottle. Afterwards you will need to reset the Eolys counter using diagbox or lexia. Took me a few minutes to find the appropriate "repair" menu in diagbox. Good luck with it, Frank |
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Dan595
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Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
I did the DPF additive replacement over the weekend. As Frank (Cisco) says, an easy job - no need to remove the cover over the tank as you can reach the pipe with it in place (just). The counter reset is in 'Repair' under the injection ECU (or at least is in my Diagbox install). Took me ages to find it. Hopefully come to the end of a bad run with the car - this additive job and two non-technical problems - broken into on Tuesday (Auto Windscreens managed to get a rear quarter window in three days, and have done a good job at fitting it) and a puncture on Wednesday (tyres were on 1.6mm anyway so Kwikfit Mobile fitted new Michelin Primacy 3 for £109). |
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Radox
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 Member No: #4044
Location: Bad Bergzabern |
321dave wrote ... C6Dave wrote ...  You can't mix some of the different types of fluid.Finally after a long spell got the time today to remove the left rear wheel and try and top up the eolys additive tank. All fine regarding removing all the covers but I noticed a white click fit connection onto the additive tank? Will this go ok with the green caped Infineon F7995? when I disconnected the white connection to the tank i also noticed from the back flow of a little of the fluid the tank appear not down to its last 0.5litres, seems almost half full. So I'm thinking it not empty at all and the previous owners or garage must of not reset the counter? Kind regards 321dave   I also go the "DPF additive level low" warning today. I refilled it 3 years ago and when I checked the bill from then, it says they refilled it with DPX42? I also have a white connector on the fluid reservoir. I am perplexed, as I though all C6s have the green connector and must be refilled with Eolys 176?! So, what should I put in? My car's number on the door label starts with 10839, if that helps. |
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