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clicking/crunching from front kerbside brakes |
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Ped
 
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   Member No: #82
Location: Maidenhead |
Interesting discussion guys I just dropped my 6 off at Slough and the guy there (forgotten his name now.. Jason?) was extremely helpful indeed. It turns out my car's year warranty hasn't been put on the Citroen UK system for some reason, so he is going to get that sorted, which means when they DO put it on the system I'll get a years warranty starting from today! I will let you know what the outcome is. Cheers ped |
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verycleverman
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 Member No: #65
Location: Northumberland |
Thanks for that, Dave. It's something that's been worrying me for a while, especially after being stung for £220 for the front pads. It doesn't appear that the left and right calipers are 'handed' like the C5 front brakes. As for the tool, I might have to take the Trade card, that Halfords once foolishly gave me, for an outing. Pete. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Pete, the front pads aren't handed either. So an axle set has 4 identical pads. Regards G |
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Trainman
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  Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham |
Ped wrote ... It turns out my car's year warranty hasn't been put on the Citroen UK system for some reason, so he is going to get that sorted, which means when they DO put it on the system I'll get a years warranty starting from today! Becareful about that, I had the same problem and they started mine from the day of purchase, even though I was 4 months into the warrenty |
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verycleverman
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Member No: #65
Location: Northumberland |
gmerry wrote ... Pete, the front pads aren't handed either. So an axle set has 4 identical pads. Regards G What I meant, G, by handed is that, (on the C5), when you wind in the piston the direction is clockwise for the caliper on the left hand wheel and anti-clockwise for the caliper on the right hand wheel. Winding the piston the wrong way causes it to pop out of the caliper; not good. I would be keen to hear from anyone who has changed the rear pads and has first hand knowledge of the procedure.  Pete. |
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C6Dave
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 Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Pete the procedure is the same as the C4 albeit they are bigger pads and calipers on the C6 Here is a tutorial on the C4 created by one of the members, with pictures you can download and read through.. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Pete, the instructions for the C6 says wind piston clockwise to retract. It doesn't say wind clockwise for the RH and anti-clockwise for the LH, so its a fair assumption that the calipers are not handed when it comes to winding in the pistons. Look we are only talking mid twenties, pounds wise for a Laser brand brake piston rewind tool (part no 1314 stocked by Halfords amongst others). In the event that this is not true, a piston rewind tool can be made to work for either handed rewind. You just have to keep on adjusting separately the axial displacement of the tool. Much easier to do this than describe, so get on with it!!!!! Best regards G |
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verycleverman
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Member No: #65
Location: Northumberland |
Thanks for the tutorial, Dave. It has only served to confirm my original concern about which way to wind in the pistons. I have replaced the pads on all my previous Citroens; Bx, Xm and 2x C5s and certainly the two C5s have needed the pistons winding in in different directions as, apparently, does the C4. I guess time will tell. My local stealer told me they were 70% worn after 35,000 miles so, on that basis, I should have up to 50,000 miles - another 10,000 to go - before they need replacing. Of course it's always possible he exaggerated the wear to get me to shell out for replacement there and then! Pete. |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
verycleverman wrote ... ................................... I guess time will tell. My local stealer told me they were 70% worn after 35,000 miles so, on that basis, I should have up to 50,000 miles - another 10,000 to go - before they need replacing. Of course it's always possible he exaggerated the wear to get me to shell out for replacement there and then! Unfortunately, that has been known to happen and been reported more than once over at C4owners. They sometimes use the excuse that they will need replacing before the next service is due. Invariably it's from one of the large chains with 'targets' to meet. The smaller (often family owned) franchises always seem to be more customer focused. It always amazes me how they decide that they are 70% worn when they don't even take the wheels off the car. How exactly do they measure the pads in those circumstances? |
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verycleverman
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Member No: #65
Location: Northumberland |
When they gave me that estimate it was in for MOT and they told me that the front pads needed replacement or the car would fail. Not having done much research into pad replacement at that stage, I assumed that the parking brake was on the front wheels as with all previous hydropneumatic Citroens. I was also under the impression that a special tool was required for changing the pads due to the electric parking brake so I allowed them to change the pads for me, at a cost of £220. I took the precaution of asking for the old pads to be returned to me because previous experience showed that they tell lies. The pads were, however, well worn and did need replacement. However, based again on previous experience, when they told me the rears also needed replacement, at a cost of £250, I told them that I would leave them until a later date. Even if they were telling the truth, at 70% worn that's like replacing them £75 early! How do they sleep at night? Anyway, now that I know that the parking brake issue is no big thing, I'll replace them myself and save over £200. Pete. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Pete or anyone else, when it comes the time to replace the disks, the Torx fasteners that secure the caliper bracket to the hub need removing. This applies to back and front disks. The Torx fasteners are extremely tight, as they are Loctite'd in place (if such a word exists). Using a Torx key in a socket put the lever arm of the wrench some considerable distance away from the fastener: this carries a risk of cranking over the torx key and rounding the fasteners instead of removing them. The attached "flogging spanner" with a 10mm internal hex enables a shortened key to be used and therefore minimal or no standoff from the fastener. A heavy hammer can be used to shock the fastener and a large pipe applied over the end to get controlled leverage (almost pure torsion no bending). The "flogging spanner" is made from a 1/2" drive 10mm single hex impact socket, press fitted with a heavy interference into a suitable heavy bar. Regards G   Here's a side by side comparison with a standard socket and wrench. Regards 
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Loctite is always a pain to break, but it's doing the job it's designed for. Try not to use a ratchet or extension and get the leverage as close to the bolt head as possible. Also try and 'tighten' first, to crack the seal, then undo But a 4lb 'lump' hammer can be your best friend, believe me. We used Loctite a lot when I worked underground to stop bolt vibrating loose and it worked fabulously, but really was a pain when things went wrong! Doing the C4 brakes I had to resort to a long lever and the lump hammer to get the caliper bolts moving. |
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Ped
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Member No: #82
Location: Maidenhead |
OK guys, problem fixed. It turns out the problem was the pad warning wire which had broken, it had been hitting the driveshaft and disc back plate, causing the noise. They have secured it and advised me to contact the dealer from whom I bought the car to see if they will allow Slough Citroen to find the appropriate loom and repair it fully (will cost well into the £300 region). Otherwise it's fine. More than 50% left on the pads, though I will need new tyres soon.. I'll save that for another thread!! I'm glad to have my 6 back but also had a lot of fun pootling about in the C1!! Cheers ped |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Yes Dave, those calipers screws really do need an impact to get them moving, hence the "flogging spanner" with the option of some controlled leverage. One of those tools you don't realise you need until after you have made a right mess of things. Regards G |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Easiest way to jack a C6 (Without 2 post lift of course)?. Basically two 3 tonne trolley jacks, one either side. Connected via a suitable beam and blocks to fit jacking points. Beam is screwed to jacks via M24x 1.5mm bolts (Arcan jacks have this threaded hole in the centre of the lifting pad). Regards G  
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