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Bottom ball joint mod.
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speedfix   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 01:17pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 Used two post hoist, position of arms.

Tried to put up a pic of the ball joint mod but can only put up one I hope!
No luck with the single pic, I will have to read up how to do a pic posting when time permits.

Regarding the bottom ball joints I drilled and fitted grease nipples took longer to get the wheels off and sort out the corrosion than to do the greasers.
Just wish i could put the pictures up.
C6Dave   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 01:58pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
 Please Read: How do I attach an image to a forum post in the help file you can access by clicking the button at the top and bottom of the page

BTW gmerry has already posted on how to add a grease nipple to a ball joint: - Click Here - and here: - Click Here -

There is also a thread with updated part numbers here: - Click Here -
Website
speedfix   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 02:15pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 Thanks I will have a read, the way I have fitted the grease nipples is an old way without all the tapping and threading in of the nipple.
Can be done in minutes once the wheels are off,the joints do not have to be removed, can be done in place but only with good joints.
The old grease was somewhat dirty once the grease gun was applied.

There is nothing to stop the water [salt] getting inside the joint so greasing IMO is a must to expell foreign dirt.
gmerry   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 02:18pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Speedfix, I avoided doing any kind of "bodge" on the car as simply drilling a hole and fitting a grease nipple will fill the joint with swarf.

Regards
G
speedfix   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 02:39pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 No bodge drilled up from under with the joint in place.
Impossible for any swarf to get inside useing my method.

Much time and expence saved don't you think
gmerry   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 08:23pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Speedfix, any chance of enlightening the forum as to details of "your method".

Thanks
G
speedfix   
Fri Nov 02 2012, 09:00pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 First picture of hole drilled.


More to follow!
C6Dave   
Sat Nov 03 2012, 07:21am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
speedfix wrote ...

No bodge drilled up from under with the joint in place.
Impossible for any swarf to get inside useing my method.

'Impossible' is the wrong word, improbable maybe, but my previous mechanical engineering experience tells me that drilling any assembled item in situ can allow containments to enter where you don't want them.
Website
speedfix   
Sat Nov 03 2012, 01:07pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 No swarf will not go up hill etc etc with magnetics in place.
No tapping or threads needed.
Engineering experience from days gone by, yes is needed to do this quick job but many can do this simple job and have a car that transforms its self.

Look at the old grease and what transformation of the road noise is now so quiet and I don't mean clonks and rumbles from a worn out joint but the road noise transmitted.
Have not finished for the long term as am looking into a better grease like a sort of traction type.
Nextpic will be the clever nipple.
speedfix   
Sat Nov 03 2012, 02:58pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 And now for the simple interference nipple, this use is for engineering experience or for those aecepting that it is impossible to get swarf in the joint, not like from tapping threads etc for the threaded type nipple!
Tjensen   
Sat Nov 03 2012, 03:11pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
 Looks elegant ! Can such a modification be ordered at a standard garage ?
Gobxoy   
Sun Nov 04 2012, 12:54pm
Joined: Jan 20 2012
Member No: #786
Location: Essex
 Now we have two options

Gmerry's is the more acceted method, on which ...............

Speedfix's is an alternative, if you are carfull to make sure that no debris is introduced(guess that rules out most garages) grease the drill usually helps to keep the swarf attached to the drill.
You can get "drive grease nipples" with barbs on (USA)




Or these below - Click Here - data sheet - Click Here -
gmerry   
Mon Nov 05 2012, 10:25am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Tjensen, to get new ball joints modified to incorporate a grease fitting, any machine shop could do this job.

Then its just a standard garage job to fit. The "machining" part of the mod is spot facing the ball joint to get a flat surface, milling a tight tolerance hole (milling minimises the swarf going into the joint), cleaning out the spot of grease on the inside which will hold the swarf, degreasing, gluing / riveting in the rivnut bush (use a ball bearing to set the rivnut bush).

Note there is another critical mod. The injected grease needs to have a controlled exit route - otherwise the joint will be forced apart by grease pressure.

With the drive in fitting, it will be pot luck using a hand drill whether one ever get the correct interference: there's a high chance that the grease pressure will cause the fitting to be ejected.

This is on top of the issue of drilling swarf getting into the joint.

Regards
G
speedfix   
Mon Nov 05 2012, 06:21pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
"Note there is another critical mod. The injected grease needs to have a controlled exit route - otherwise the joint will be forced apart by grease pressure.
With the drive in fitting, it will be pot luck using a hand drill whether one ever get the correct interference: there's a high chance that the grease pressure will cause the fitting to be ejected.
This is on top of the issue of drilling swarf getting into the joint."


First may I suggest that you look at the pic of the nipple.

There is no sealing ball in this type, no pressure can be held.

Why have I choose this type why indeed so I can see over a service distance with a piece small gauge wire inserted to see if the ingress of water is pressent over time etc.

I put it to you that drilling up with the joint in place on car with no grease on the drill bit with a magnitized area you will have no swarf ingress.

If a tap was used I would use some grease however but could not garantee if swarf had entered.

As for your method of washing the internals to get the milled swarf out, it will never happen as the debri will go past the rollers and collect in the top of the bearings with failings at a later date.

As for the clearance being pot luck I suggest you look at the worn and new 308 Peugeot bottom ball joints on the Forum look close at the hub shamfered stub while there you could maybe tell them about this mot that takes no less than 1/2 hour once the car is up on a hoist with wheels removed.

Sorry to take your thunder but this is the way forward IMO.

Gobxoy   
Mon Nov 05 2012, 08:56pm
Joined: Jan 20 2012
Member No: #786
Location: Essex
 Boys Boys Boys, both are good.

The Speedfix method as it's not sealed then pehaps it would be a good idea to put a cap over the nipple, as it would be dead easy to introduce dirt through the hole?
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