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[%*^#@!] ball joints again |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Citrohanc6, a little grease applied around the outside of the crevice between pivot bearing housing and the hub carrier might reduce the amount of water getting inside the bearing. I've now had one bearing replaced on the eve of the 3rd year of the warranty (failed MOT) and I replaced the other bearing even though it passed the MOT (Always do Front Suspension repairs in pairs side to side). The grease inside on the Non MOT failed bearing was very thick with corrosion products but at least not completely dry like some. Mine is the latter design, has a stainless track just visible in the attached photo. The hub pivot shaft is still steel so if it pits even a little it will destroy the lip seal in the replacement bearing and result in a short life for the repair. Regards G |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
To replace the pivot bearings, it's probably possible to do the job without removing the brake caliper and disk but I would strongly recommend that the brake disk is removed as part of the job, it vastly improves access. The drive shaft nut must be undone so that the pivot and hub can be swung outwards. This required a 32mm socket. I use a single hex socket with a 3/4" drive and breaker bar plus about a 5 foot long bar. You also need a reaction bar that bolts onto the hub. See photo. Regards G |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
E18 and E14 Torx (female) sockets and also an E18 torx spanner are required to remove the fasteners that hold the pivot bearing to the suspension upright. Its also very handy to have a minature puller because the inner bearing race will be left stuck on the hub. Regards G |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Ball Joint now fitted complete with grease fitting. So long as this in the bottom centre and facing either forwards or backwards there is plenty of room for the grease fitting and access to get the gun connected. Regards G |
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cruiserphil |
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Lads, On the subject of the lower wishbones I finally got around to fitting them last weekend. As it turns out the rear bushes were completely shot. When I removed the wishbones I could pull off the rear mounting bracket as the bushing was completely detached from the wishbone. Here's a photo of new. Here's what came out of the car. And here's the old apart. The wishbones are not too difficult to change. The left hand driveshaft has to be removed to allow the wishbone centre bolt to be removed, but in the case of the right hand, you have to remove the driveshaft from the hub but you can then move it to one side to get clearance to remove the bolt. There's no clunking from the front anymore. So one to watch if you're balljoints are OK! But if anyone can advise: After fitting the wishbones I followed the instruction to reprogramme the suspension heights. I did as required but the right hand front comes up with "incomplete" following an overall "programming failed" result. The other 3 are complete. There is now a permanent fault advising "programming incomplete." When I drive, I get regular Suspension Fault alerts and the front suspension feels stiff. There is no fault logged for the wheel height sensor for front right hand, but I feel this sensor may be the problem as the other 3 programmed at the same tme. I feel I need to replace it. I am going to try the reprogramme again tonight and will advise of any change. Any views? Regards, Phil C. |
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cruiserphil |
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Forgot to mention car (2006) has 95000 km but as I'm the second owner I can't comment on the terrain it frequented over most of its life so far. Interestingly the 2007 car with the same km's has no issue with wishbones at all. Regards, Phil C. |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Phil, thanks for your great write-up. Looks to me as though pre-emptive changeout of the rear wishbone bush might be a good idea (at around 4-5 year period). Might be as well to do this when sorting the suspension "circlip", once we know what the problem details are for that one. Bit of a shame that the left driveshaft has to be removed as presumably this means the auto gearbox has to be drained and refilled? Regards G |
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cruiserphil |
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Thanks G. You're fine with the left drive shaft removal as the oil level in the gearbox is below the seal. The seal is not suitable for sealing an oil reservoir but seals oil splash (is labyrinth the term?). So no need to drain. As regards the long RH shaft you get away without releasing the intermediate bearing. So the job can be done without access to under the car - just access from the wheel arches. On the sensor front I've ordered a replacement RH. They're relatively inexpensive. When fitted I'll try a height reprogramme again. Regards, Phil C |
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cruiserphil |
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
I posted the solution to the height sensor programming in a new thread - Click Here - | ||
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robin-hood |
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Joined: Feb 11 2011
Member No: #377
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Hi all, I've changed all ball joints including the lower one on mine few months ago, and since, it's far better but There is still a bit of vibration or judder I can feel on steering wheel, at low speeds on bad surfaces. Do you think it's part of the mix soft suspension + low profile tires that makes it ? Do you have this kind of issue ? I bought recently all suspension upper leg axes bushings, I'll change them soon but I'm not sure it's coming from here. Maybe it's just normal on poor surfaces. if you have an opinion ! |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
A recent poster commented that the lower wishbone rear bush (the one in an aluminium block) can also cause suspension noise if it is worn. Once you have changed this, I guess you might be into looking at the software/damper settings. PS, did you get any photos you can post showing the work you did on the upper suspension pivots. Will help someone. Regards G |
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bdeithrick |
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Joined: Mar 15 2010
Member No: #70
Location: Greystones |
@phillC Phil did the rear bush look the same as the one you took off, my wishbone replacement was done with wrong bushes at rear because I could not get the right part from Citroen or GSF parts. Yours look like the right part with the hole in line with the centre and rubber bush at 50mm. Where did you get these wishbones as mine have 10mm spacers fitted cus off wrong size. I have posted on the matter before Ps mine are shot again with wonderful knocking and banging so have to buy this week ! Byron |
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cruiserphil |
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Lads, While searching for an alternator pulley I discovered that the lower wishbone bushes are available as separate parts - but not from Citroen. See this link for example of two different makes: - Click Here -. And check the prices!! (The Lemforder bush is for the upper wishbone). The lower wishbones are a substantial piece of metal and I thought it was a shame that they were destined for the bin. I have salvaged my spare wishbones and intend to refurbish them. Hope this is of help. Regards, Phil C. |
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C6Dave |
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Nice find and should prove very useful | ||
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Phil, I had assumed that the forward rubber bush, part of the lower wishbone) was bonded into the large metal casting (boomerang shaped lower wishbone). Have you now figured out that this can be replaced? I too always thought it was rather wasteful to have to replace the metal part when it is only the rubber that has worn out. Regards G |
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