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Tyre pressure monitors

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smorphet   
Wed Nov 21 2012, 06:29pm
Joined: Apr 13 2010
Member No: #88
Location: Hertfordshire
Grumpytvr wrote ...

The ID on the pressure sensor is an 8 character alpha numeric code, the ID in Lexia is a 10 digit number! What I thought would be a relatively straight forward procedure of feeding in the new ID seems to be somewhat more difficult.


The alphanumeric code is actually hexadecimal (letters A-F and numbers 0-9). You can convert it to decimal using a calculator with base conversion.

Some handheld calculators will struggle with numbers that long, but the Microsoft Windows one seems to cope: Change to 'scientific' view, select the 'hex' display mode and enter the 8 character number, then select the 'dec' display mode and the display will show a decimal number suitable for entry into Lexia.

I did wonder whether Lexia would cope with direct entry of the hexadecimal numbers, but never got around to trying it.

Steve.
C6Dave   
Wed Nov 21 2012, 07:00pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Oh my head is spinning now reading that post smorphet, what happened before 'scientific' calculators were invented.

Oh yes, we used a tyre pressure gauge as part of our weekly checks!
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Grumpytvr   
Wed Nov 21 2012, 09:38pm
Joined: Dec 04 2011
Member No: #742
Location: Wiltshire
smorphet wrote ...

Grumpytvr wrote ...

The ID on the pressure sensor is an 8 character alpha numeric code, the ID in Lexia is a 10 digit number! What I thought would be a relatively straight forward procedure of feeding in the new ID seems to be somewhat more difficult.


The alphanumeric code is actually hexadecimal (letters A-F and numbers 0-9). You can convert it to decimal using a calculator with base conversion.

Some handheld calculators will struggle with numbers that long, but the Microsoft Windows one seems to cope: Change to 'scientific' view, select the 'hex' display mode and enter the 8 character number, then select the 'dec' display mode and the display will show a decimal number suitable for entry into Lexia.

I did wonder whether Lexia would cope with direct entry of the hexadecimal numbers, but never got around to trying it.

Steve.


Yep, CE27A1F2 Becomes 3458703858 which makes much more sense! (well it's similar to the others anyway) Being of a mechanical background that never occurred to me. Perhaps I'd better stick to my spanners.

Thank you so much for your help, the next challenge will be whether the replacement tyre monitor I've had installed is any good. Too dark and miserable to do it now, maybe I'll have a go during daylight hours.....

Cheers

Tom
Grumpytvr   
Wed Nov 21 2012, 09:45pm
Joined: Dec 04 2011
Member No: #742
Location: Wiltshire
cruiserphil wrote ...

Don't worry about the stored faults mounting up, once they don't reappear as permanent faults. A lot of spurious faults can occur during start up and shut down or even disconnecting the battery for maintenance. If you're concerned, when you clear the faults, take the car for a spin and then check the fault log again. And check another thread on the steering wheel angle sensor fault. I have seen this on all 5 x C6's I have plugged into and I think the general concensus is that it's a Lexia glitch.



Thanks for this, I wasn't overly worried about this just surprised. After all, I've been driving it round for the last year without any major problems! - Including west country floods today. Can't beat hydro-pneumatic suspension.

Cheers

Tom
Grumpytvr   
Fri Nov 23 2012, 05:43pm
Joined: Dec 04 2011
Member No: #742
Location: Wiltshire
Been out in daylight to re-look at the problem. Fired up Lexia, put in the converted code, went for a quick drive and hey presto, front left wheel now green and OK on display. Many thanks for the steer (no pun intended)

On a separate note one of the other fault codes has come up as a short in the headlamp washers. I didn't know it had any! Obviously the covers are on the bumper, but I assumed that they just covered the holes and they weren't fitted.

Before I start investigating further does anyone know whether headlamp washers were fitted to all models or just the Exclusive? (Mines a Lignage).

Any assistance much appreciated.

Cheers

Tom
C6Dave   
Fri Nov 23 2012, 07:15pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
If the car has Xenons (and I'm sure the whole C6 range has) it has to have headlamp wash by law.

The covers 'pop up' under water pressure when the lights are on and the screen wash is activated.

It should spray the lights twice.

It's possible that the 2 stage pump on the washer bottle (behind the front offside wheel arch liner) is stuck or failed

Stand at the front of the car and get someone to activate the screen wash with the lights on and see if water sprays on the floor, it may be a bust or disconnected pipe
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Gobxoy   
Sat Nov 24 2012, 09:36am
Joined: Jan 20 2012
Member No: #786
Location: Essex
If you are driving at motorway speeds with headlights on use the windscreen washers and check your side mirror after about 2 seconds you get a very distinctive spray pattern off the rear end at bumper height.
Grumpytvr   
Tue Nov 27 2012, 11:41am
Joined: Dec 04 2011
Member No: #742
Location: Wiltshire
Thanks again for replies, sorry for slow response, I've been away from a computer for a while!

Have checked the operation of the washers and they definitely don't work. Shall have a poke around in the not too distant future. Hopefully it's an easy fix such as pipes, connectors or worst case replacing the pump.

I've had a similar thing happen on an old Vectra, the rear windscreen washer packed up whilst the front ones were fine. Turned out to be the two stage pump. Funnily enough that was behind one of the wheel arch loners too...
pclark   
Wed Nov 28 2012, 09:02am
Joined: Oct 08 2009
Member No: #3
Location: North Yorkshire
Are you sure there is sufficient fluid in the washer reservoir? From memory the headlamp washers stop working when the level falls to a certain point but the windscreen washer still works. This is I assume deliberate to prioritise the remaining fluid for the windscreen.
James   
Mon Dec 31 2012, 01:56pm
Joined: Mar 03 2012
Member No: #817
Location: Somewhere in the south of England
magicands wrote ...

My sensor blew out, deflating my tyre instantly (very worrying) I replaced the sensor with a new one from Citroen but had installed the spare wheel (no thanks to the Jack buckling under the weight of the car?) I took my car to Just Tyres who fitted the new sensor and replaced my wheel but had to return to Citroen to have the sensor recognised by the cars computer system.
The chap at Just tyres didnt charge me for fitting the new sensor as I always use them for my tyres.
Sadly the sensor cost £84 and then a further £106.40 at Citroen to prgramme it up.............£190.40..........I think next time I will just use a normal tyre valve and forget the computer, after all, I've always checked my own tyres in the past!!
A license to print money me thinks


On Saturday driving up the A34 to Oxford, I got a low pressure warning. Knowing the system over 3 C5s and 2 C6s, I know that sensor faults are rare and usually this means the tyre is a couple of PSI below where it should be (not enough to feel by leaning on it). Within a few seconds it went to "Puncture" warning. Knowing the road and that I'd missed the chance to stop at layby I opted to leave at the next junction which put me about a mile from the Oxford branch of National tyre so I headed there, and (as it turned out) wrecked the tyre - but I wasn't going to take my life in the my hands to change it on the side of the A34 in the pouring rain with the traffic pretty heavy and fast moving.

At National it transpired that the sensor-valve assembly had corroded and failed (causing the rapid loss of pressure). When the guy from National examined in the others a second failed (it also had a wrong cap on it), and the 2 remaining ones showed signes of corrosion.

National can replace the sensors at £80 or so each + a flat £30 to program them to the car. It's an MoT failure to have a monitoring system which isn't working, and according to National-man the sensors have a not replacable battery which is good for 4 years or so and then the whole thing needs to be changed.
Since the car is still under warranty I opted not to get new sensors from National and head back down the A34 to Hartwells who I've had one good experience with already this month.

According to them (a) This is a fairly common issue. (b) The same siemens sensors are used by Mercedes and Mazda where the problem also exists and (c) it is covered by warranty.

Curious to know what others do about checking for / preventing corrosion, and if people are hitting the end of life for the battery.
C6Dave   
Mon Dec 31 2012, 04:13pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
There is a long thread on it already. Battery life is estimated at 7-10 years, not 4 (think you were been given the 'hard sell' on that one)

I always use plastic caps and spray with 'Ferrosol' and have only had one ever fail.

You can also by a repair kit which is just the valve assembly so you can leave the actual sensor in place (again there is a thread with images on site) and these are far cheaper than replacing the whole sensor modules
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magicands   
Mon Dec 31 2012, 04:38pm
Joined: Sep 13 2012
Member No: #1021
Location: Coventry, Warwickshire
One of my sensors blew out in October causing instant tyre deflation, this was caused by corrosion around the thread where the cap screwed on and the whole thing just fell off causing the blow out.
My advise is to cake them in Grease and keep them caked in it, its far to expensive to keep replacing the sensor and having the computer re programmed.
I also concur with what dave is saying above.
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James   
Mon Dec 31 2012, 08:37pm
Joined: Mar 03 2012
Member No: #817
Location: Somewhere in the south of England
I think I found the thread with the info about just changing the valve, but after much to-ing and fro-ing in national the conclusion was that it couldn't be changed on this model, and the conversation I had with the local dealer seemed to support that.

I commented to this thread because I saw magicands and I had almost identical incidents. It's not just a C6 thing, a quick search turned up owners of multiple makes all saying the same thing - the metal valve suffers from galvanic corrosion (that is a small current flowing between two metals when they get something conductive - say salty water from winter roads).
Gobxoy   
Tue Jan 01 2013, 10:06am
Joined: Jan 20 2012
Member No: #786
Location: Essex
I went with Tyresure monitor and TPMS approx £160 at the time, for four valve/TPMs and monitor and it works a treat. I had a winter check and the OEM TPMS turned off and at the same time switched from 18" to 17" wheels all for £58. The winter check was £19.99 so thats £38 for the Lexia work?

They did say it was a pain to set up new TPMS so that helped me decide to go with the Tyresure.

Tyresure give pressure and temps you can set your own High and low limits for T&Ps. Easy to set up and now I don't need to do a manual check very often. Here's the thread with them in. - Click Here - oh and they do an iphone app so you can chek Ts&Ps on your iphone not sure about Android.

Tolleys fitted them with the winter tyres a few weeks earlier.
Tjensen   
Tue Jan 01 2013, 01:16pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
And there are new and better "original" valves (?) Are they Citroen parts or from other sources and what is the part no/identification ?
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