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Not Starting Uggghh! |
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chillmax |
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Joined: Mar 27 2014
Member No: #1648
Location: Mayo |
Hi All Anyone seen this before? All was pretty OK, but for one reason & another, just changed the battery, coil packs & starter motor. Now when you attempt to start, electrics come on, but absolutely nothing else, no turnover etc. Try a couple of times then she eventually starts, only just got her back Friday after the new starter, from my private garage, she's going to a dealer Monday for something else. Could it be the ignition, running out of ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers Justin |
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northuk |
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Joined: May 17 2015
Member No: #2167
Location: Shetland |
Hi, I am dealing with the same condition, did you find the problem? |
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Tjensen |
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Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
On CX and XM this was a sign of bad connections or faulty relays in all the electronics related to "conditions that have be met before starting is accepted" | ||
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dsharples |
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Joined: May 18 2010
Member No: #119
Location: Woodbridge |
Any updates or thoughts? I've had a number of incidents of "non-starting", despite holding the starter for a 5 seconds... So far, having repeated cranking in bursts of a 5 or more seconds, has always seen the car start... The occurrence seems to be quite random. It happened today, despite the car having covered 90 or so miles from home to Bedford the previous day. The starter seems to be cranking the engine at a reasonable pace. All other electronics seem to be working OK, with no on-screen errors or warnings. However, I have suspected sticking EGRs. Except no stored faults in BSI yet to indicate a specific problem. If an EGR valve occasionally stuck in a funny position, could that cause poor starting? Or is this likely to be a poor starter or something else? |
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Trainman |
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Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham |
Being intermittent, it's going to be a nightmare, I suspect it's something like a loose connection. I don't believe the issue is related to.the EGR valves. | ||
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C6Dave |
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
My TA started doing that, starter wouldn't engage, then it would, then it wouldn't quite randomly, then it failed altogether.... | ||
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drummond |
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Joined: Sep 20 2010
Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh |
Yeah, Dave, but 63 years is quite good for a starter! | ||
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C6Dave |
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
drummond wrote ... Yeah, Dave, but 63 years is quite good for a starter! err no Tim, it was the rebuilt one we fitted out in France at the 80th... |
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Jodyone |
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Joined: Mar 24 2013
Member No: #1240
Location: Cornwall |
The starter motor has a small terminal on the solenoid that must be attached after fitting, but is behind everything, and very difficult to get to and tighten. When I did it, I must have overtightened it and damaged the terminal post, leaving a barely attached cable. This led to the exact conditions you're describing. I'm pretty careful and plodding when working on things like this, and I still managed to screw it up: I don't doubt others could do the same. I removed the starter to inspect, and found all this out. I repaired the terminal and pre-fitted a length of heavy gauge cable, which I then soldered to the relevant cable higher up. Everything works perfectly now. Unfortunately the only way you can find this out is if everything else is ruled out, and you pull the starter- not a fun job unless you have a child's hands... |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Jody, that is a top tip (pre-attaching a solenoid flying lead and making a remote connection). Thanks G |
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e3steve |
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Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
What is often overlooked is the fact that the heart of the powertrain is pre-assembled and then inserted into the engine bay from below and already "sub-framed", thus leaving many maintenance items inaccessible. Few of these areas are more apparent than the starter motor and, in particular, the solenoid coil stud! Starter motor replacement is not a job to attempt if a) you have bananas for fingers or b) you're in a rush! |
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drummond |
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Joined: Sep 20 2010
Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh |
Oh, yes, Dave, I forgot- I don't suppose that Phil did, though! | ||
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adrianvp |
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Joined: Nov 03 2011
Member No: #704
Location: Wamboin New South Wales |
I have a problem with starting which may be relevant to this topic. A couple of months ago I did a timing belt change (My brother is a mechanic and owns a workshop. In truth one of his mechanics did most of the work with some help from me). A problem became evident just after we finished namely that the battery started going flat on the way home from the workshop. I attempted to get the car back to the workshop but the battery went rapidly dead to the point where the engine stopped in gear making the car immovable. It was dragged onto a lift truck and taken to the workshop. There we charged the battery and worked out that the alternator drive clutch had failed. Once that was replaced the car was driveable but there were all sorts of faults showing on his diagnostic device (Not a citroen (Lexia)one) I took the car to a PSA expert and he reset most of the errors ( things such as the speedo and ABS not working because the speed sensor had to be reset) However after I arrived home (650km )I noticed that the car was starting erratically. About half the time it would start on the first turn of the key, but the rest of the time it would crank over well but sound like it was never going to start. I found that taking the key out, counting to 10, turning the key on and waiting until all computer functions were finished e.g. oil level ok message off, I could get a start on the second, third or occasionally fourth go. I took my car to the local dealer and asked him to connect up his diagnostic device and simply tell me what messages he got. He got three: a P0016 fault, a P1351 fault and a U1205 fault More about the second and third later other that to say that the U1205 was probably an uncorrected hang over from the alternator failure and flat battery The P0016 fault is described as a 'cylinder reference signal incorrect value recieved" fault What I believe may have happened is that when we moved wires out of the way in order to replace the timing belt we may have caused and intermittent fault to either or both of the crankshaft or camshaft timing sensor wiring. Does someone know where the camshaft timing sensor is and which wires go into it. Similarly with the crankshaft sensor although given that the engine runs oK once it starts I suspect the camshaft sensor because I was told that it is only used during starting. My understanding of the P1351 fault ( which is "pre heating relay circuit") is that it will only affect starting in cold weather >5deg C and it is currently summer here so the problem is lower priority. Given that where I live winter morning temps can be down to -5C it will have to be attended to before next winter Sorry if this post is a bit long |
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