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noise from engine, anything to worry about? |
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Andimac101
 
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  Member No: #2380
Location: Windsor |
just got back, engine warm and noticed a 'new' sound coming from where the drive belt assembly is (loud enough to hear from inside the car) I may be getting a bit paranoid now with issues with this car but is there anything that needs attention? Noise I can describe is a repetitive, pulsing 'scraping' noise. - Click Here - |
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Bishop
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  Member No: #868
Location: Harpenden |
Oh dear, could be hydraulics related, and for me the other week that spelt failed power-steering pipe and a £800 fix at BL (in itself a lot less than it would have been courtesy of a dealer). I hope not for you .... | ||
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Cisco
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   Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow |
Hi Andrew, I can hear the noise in the video, I'm surprised that you can hear it in the cabin though. Obviously there are a number of pulleys that the serpentine belt runs on but, from your video, there is no evidence of run-off or wobbling from the belt. The pulley which everyone has problems with around your mileage is the alternator pulley although that tends to generate the "cricket" sound that you will probably have seen mentioned on the forum. Have a look at the alternator area with an extendable mirror and see if you can spot some brown dust. If so that would suggest that that pulley is on the way out and could be generating your noise. Eventually you will get a "charging problem" fault message which will confirm it's time to fix it. If not then I would leave it for a bit to see if the noise gets worse and/or develops additional "smoking gun" symptoms. Good luck with it, Frank |
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cruiserphil
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   Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Andrew, I'm with Cisco on the alternator pulley as the first suspect area. Best regards, Phil C. |
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Mine sounded similar, about two years ago; it turned out to be the idler pulley bearing. The pulley is riveted together with three soft rivets. I reassembled it with M5 x 10mm machine screws, spring washers & plain nuts. The bearing was 'poorly octopus' (six quid) from simplybearings.co.uk: SKF 63032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x47x14mm. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... Mine sounded similar, about two years ago; it turned out to be the idler pulley bearing. The pulley is riveted together with three soft rivets. I reassembled it with M5 x 10mm machine screws, spring washers & plain nuts. The bearing was 'poorly octopus' (six quid) from simplybearings.co.uk: SKF 63032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x47x14mm. Hi Steve, was that the serpentine idler pulley you were referring to? |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
321dave wrote ... e3steve wrote ... Mine sounded similar, about two years ago; it turned out to be the idler pulley bearing. The pulley is riveted together with three soft rivets. I reassembled it with M5 x 10mm machine screws, spring washers & plain nuts. The bearing was 'poorly octopus' (six quid) from simplybearings.co.uk: SKF 63032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x47x14mm. Hi Steve, was that the serpentine idler pulley you were referring to? Yes Dave. How'd the timing belt job go?  ? |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... 321dave wrote ... e3steve wrote ... Mine sounded similar, about two years ago; it turned out to be the idler pulley bearing. The pulley is riveted together with three soft rivets. I reassembled it with M5 x 10mm machine screws, spring washers & plain nuts. The bearing was 'poorly octopus' (six quid) from simplybearings.co.uk: SKF 63032RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x47x14mm. Hi Steve, was that the serpentine idler pulley you were referring to? Yes Dave. How'd the timing belt job go? ?Hi Steve, apologies for the late reply. The radiator job went well and as access improved due to removing the bumper I replaceed all the headlight bulbs as well off the car (xenon bulbs were gone or on way out). Much easier. Unfortunately as my dad got ill just after Christmas and I wasn't able to get around to replacing the timing belt as planned but I'm not using the car at the moment anyway. Hope to get back to the garage in about two weeks time to do the timing belt then. I did start the disassembly process and promptly broke the swirl valve pipes in a few seconds of touching them, in fact two of the three pipes, so I've had to reorder the whole pipe assembly for the job ahead. I had to unfortunately cut away the old front valence near the bonnet lock and discard it as it was damaged during the removal, the bolts were very badly rusted on, and I replaced these with stainless bolts when fitting the new part in case of future removal issues. I also needed to fit a new lock and cable release as well (dealer said it was needed) which works much better to open the safety latch for the bonnet at the first attempt. I think, the new latch is fitted as standard to the newer 3.0hdi models. But it works much better here as well.     |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Nice rad! My middle slam-panel screw was like that, Dave; I half-filled the void where it penetrates with diesel and left it overnight. It protested but came out eventually. Replaced with cap-head Allen M6 s/s! |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... Nice rad! My middle slam-panel screw was like that, Dave; I half-filled the void where it penetrates with diesel and left it overnight. It protested but came out eventually. Replaced with cap-head Allen M6 s/s! Thats a very good decision Steve, they (the badly rusted fasterners) in fact snapped or sheared straight of for me (two of the three, i got one removed with a penetrant oil) and i was only applying a modest amount of torque! Then i had to go and drill the two broken ones out and clean up the threads. But hopefully that will not happen again. 
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
321dave wrote ... e3steve wrote ... Nice rad! My middle slam-panel screw was like that, Dave; I half-filled the void where it penetrates with diesel and left it overnight. It protested but came out eventually. Replaced with cap-head Allen M6 s/s! Thats a very good decision Steve, they (the badly rusted fasterners) in fact snapped or sheared straight of for me (two of the three, i got one removed with a penetrant oil) and i was only applying a modest amount of torque! Then i had to go and drill the two broken ones out and clean up the threads. But hopefully that will not happen again.    [link] |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Re snapped off corroded fasteners, my pet hates are the ones for the mudguard liners - screwed into speednuts. Regards G |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Re snapped off corroded fasteners, my pet hates are the ones for the mudguard liners - screwed into speednuts. Regards G Hi 321Dave, which brand and part number for your new radiator (and supplier). Also, are you planning on a step by step guide with photos (please). thanks G |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
gmerry wrote ... Re snapped off corroded fasteners, my pet hates are the ones for the mudguard liners - screwed into speednuts. Regards G G, I have one on the rear left mudguard missing since last summer. I managed to pull away a small portion of the soft material the liner is made from leaving a open hole! I will eventually need to replace the liner with a new one I'm afraid. The fasteners should really be non-corroding for these wet/gritty locations. |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
The trouble with all the external fasteners is that they're mild steel with a token black plating / coating and they screw into various locations threaded into what is also (predominantly) mild steel or, at best, BZP mild steel. I've made a point of removing all those fasteners -- mainly M6 screws with varying styles of head -- and wire-wheeled them and then treated them with my favourite anti-seize compound (silicone grease), using a toothbrush on the entire screw. None has been a problem since. I've even treated the s/s replacements to the same protective procedure. |
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