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Swirl electro valve pipe connections ?

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Clive981   
Sat Nov 28 2015, 07:41pm
Joined: Nov 28 2015
Member No: #2415
Location: Leeds
Hi, I managed to snap the black vacuum pipe to this valve and I want to be sure that I've connected them correctly. One has a green mark the other a white one and the third goes to the vent. Can anyone tell me whether the one marked green goes to the front or back valve please?
gmerry   
Mon Nov 30 2015, 09:20am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Clive, there is something in the "Mechanics Guide", available from the downloads that might shed a little light.

Otherwise some kind member will need to trace each line/ connection back to the solenoid valve.


Regards
G
e3steve   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 05:07am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Clive981 wrote ...

Hi, I managed to snap the black vacuum pipe to this valve and I want to be sure that I've connected them correctly. One has a green mark the other a white one and the third goes to the vent. Can anyone tell me whether the one marked green goes to the front or back valve please?
Did you get your answer to thi, Clive?
321dave   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 09:01am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

Clive981 wrote ...

Hi, I managed to snap the black vacuum pipe to this valve and I want to be sure that I've connected them correctly. One has a green mark the other a white one and the third goes to the vent. Can anyone tell me whether the one marked green goes to the front or back valve please?
Did you get your answer to thi, Clive?



Morning Steve, I returned my €150 swirl value back to the dealer a few days ago, but now im thinking maybe id better go back and get it again the pipe G used? Where would a mechanically minded C6 owner find a supply of pipe? Did you repair your broken swirl valve Steve like G when you were replacing the timing belt a few weeks back?

I'm all ready, but still awaiting the arrival of the replacement Radiator, I even purchased brand new tensioner and pulley bolts all in approx €12 from the Citroen dealer. I noticed that the Gates timing belt kits included the bolts as well. But im sure it makes very little differance, im just belt and bracking this C6 for the next few miles.
e3steve   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 01:25pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Dave, I pulled out the busted bits from the rubber tubes with needle-nosed pliers, "tidied up" the ends of the plastic tubes and re-inserted them.

The swirl system runs in vacuum, so the likelihood of the unions separating accidentally is negligible - Click Here -

They've never given me a moment's concern since...

In answer to Clive's question: I'd say it doesn't matter a ha'peth which ports get which tubes, as the cylinder banks' intakes are fed via a single, Y-split air intake source. When the Lion engine's swirl valve operates, I imagine that all ports are opened to each other to suck air via the little filter. Well, that's how I'm reading the logic of the system, leastways!
gmerry   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 04:23pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
321Dave, Clive, Steve et al, the Mechanics Guide indicates that the endmost connection "b" on the electrovalve is the one that actuates the swirl valves (Citroen call this the vacuum "supply" to the electrovalves. As Steve says, the vacuum actuator for the rear bank and front bank work off the same vacuum tube - there's a tee. Obviously one of the other connections is the back to the vacuum pump, the last one is the vent to atmosphere (I couldn't say which is which for the last two).

Interesting most 3 port Piesburg valves of this sort sell for say £20-£40 whereas for the C6, Citroen want to sell you the tubes and valves as a complete assembly.

Regards
G
e3steve   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 06:07pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
gmerry wrote ...

321Dave, Clive, Steve et al, the Mechanics Guide indicates that the endmost connection "b" on the electrovalve is the one that actuates the swirl valves (Citroen call this the vacuum "supply" to the electrovalves. As Steve says, the vacuum actuator for the rear bank and front bank work off the same vacuum tube - there's a tee. Obviously one of the other connections is the back to the vacuum pump, the last one is the vent to atmosphere (I couldn't say which is which for the last two).

Interesting most 3 port Piesburg valves of this sort sell for say £20-£40 whereas for the C6, Citroen want to sell you the tubes and valves as a complete assembly.

Regards
G
I stand corrected, G. I'd been looking for that Mechanic's Guide on my iPad this morning; I got as far as reading the torque setting values then had to leave for work...
321dave   
Wed Dec 02 2015, 08:25pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

Dave, I pulled out the busted bits from the rubber tubes with needle-nosed pliers, "tidied up" the ends of the plastic tubes and re-inserted them.

The swirl system runs in vacuum, so the likelihood of the unions separating accidentally is negligible - Click Here -

They've never given me a moment's concern since...

In answer to Clive's question: I'd say it doesn't matter a ha'peth which ports get which tubes, as the cylinder banks' intakes are fed via a single, Y-split air intake source. When the Lion engine's swirl valve operates, I imagine that all ports are opened to each other to suck air via the little filter. Well, that's how I'm reading the logic of the system, leastways!


Thanks Steve, I'll let you know what happens. I'll stick up some photos.
Clive981   
Fri Dec 04 2015, 08:52am
Joined: Nov 28 2015
Member No: #2415
Location: Leeds
Thanks guys, yes I figured that it didn't matter which way round they went as it's just a simple open or closed switch.
gmerry   
Fri Dec 04 2015, 01:02pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Clive981, I think you will find that the elctrovalve is not a simple open/close switch. It is a pressure modulator in response to the ECM electronic signal (PWM). The correct porting (to vacuum pump, swirl valve actuators and vent) is required for the system to operate correctly.

Regards
G
321dave   
Fri Dec 04 2015, 05:20pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
gmerry wrote ...

Hi Clive981, I think you will find that the elctrovalve is not a simple open/close switch. It is a pressure modulator in response to the ECM electronic signal (PWM). The correct porting (to vacuum pump, swirl valve actuators and vent) is required for the system to operate correctly.

Regards
G


Hi G, did you purchase Swirl valve replacement pipe sections to repair your broken pipes?
I'll be going into this area in a weeks time (when new radiator arrives) and want to be prepared if I need to fix the problem. Very probable I'll end up breaking these as well.

Also I'm going to test the EGR valve tomorrow for clicking sounds and codes using Lexia, but since I'll have most of the front of the car disassembled do you think I should inspect the front EGR valve and cooler assembly on a bench while its all open or leave well enough alone! Is there such a think as weak click versus strong click from a brand new EGR valve. The cost isn't to bad considering the time and labour to get at the valve in the first place. Thanks again.
gmerry   
Fri Dec 04 2015, 10:57pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi 321Dave.
Hi G,
did you purchase Swirl valve replacement pipe sections to repair your broken pipes?
I'll be going into this area in a weeks time (when new radiator arrives) and want to be prepared if I need to fix the problem. Very probable I'll end up breaking these as well.

Also I'm going to test the EGR valve tomorrow for clicking sounds and codes using Lexia, but since I'll have most of the front of the car disassembled do you think I should inspect the front EGR valve and cooler assembly on a bench while its all open or leave well enough alone! Is there such a think as weak click versus strong click from a brand new EGR valve. The cost isn't to bad considering the time and labour to get at the valve in the first place. Thanks again.


Regarding the vacuum tubes that control the swirl actuators, I repaired these with 3/16" brake tubing "cunifer" that was hanging on my garage wall, plus some heatshrink. Next time, (later), I'll replace all the plastic tubing with cunifer directly into the rubber. This will take less time than ordering the original replacement.

Regarding the front EGR valve, if it doesn't click, my feeling is it will be dead and don't waste your time on stripdown - just replace. I purchased the front valve from a Citroen dealer about £220 with discount but the rear was from an ebay parts seller about £130 and they both appear to do the same job.

Radiator out for the front EGR valve would make this a doddle as opposed to a very frustrating job.

You might also want to replace the coolant tank whilst you are at it - front EGR pipe needs removal to do this job and its a very wise precaution.

Regards
G
 

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