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new spheres or recharging? |
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C6Dave
 
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    Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
abrli wrote ... Just received email from sphere-shop.co.uk that the IFHS sphere has been made and shipped. Hoping to have it done within the next couple of week. They use the French Postal Service, then Parcelforce so it does take near 2 weeks from order to arrival. |
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chillmax
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  Member No: #1648
Location: Mayo |
I had to get the regulator from them, O/S in the UK, I think it was less than a week, maybe they were in a good mood 
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jumep
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  Member No: #2125
Location: Banka |
For a long time now, I am trying to find out who is OEM producer of speheres. What I know IFHS, MONROE, SUPPLEX are the same inside as old spheres on this picture: - Click Here - you see IFHS sphere and this is OEM: - Click Here - OEM membrane is made from rubber, is soft a thin, IFHS (or aftermarket) is same as it was in XANTIA, BX, XM - old cars, is thick and hard OEM was build to last about 200k km (which we know may not be true, but still in C5 as far as I have tested them they on cars from 2001 - 400k km, cars from 2005+ it was about 250k km) Old speheres were build to last about 70k km, but you were able to refill them. On my C6, 1 year ago I have tested them (only front) and they got 30bar instead of 50bar and now are getting worse. I do not want to buy old speheres in new body which IFHS, SUPPLEX, MONROE is (all have been cutted to see) and was looking to buy them cheaper than from dealer - you can get half of price in aftermarket, which mean instead of changing only front 2, I can change rear too. I am not sure where to find out who is producing OEM, even if I wont be able to buy them directly - it will help a lot to know |
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Nice detective work, Jumep !!! In the "where are part sourced" information here on the site, I thought they were marked as Japanese, but now I cant retrieve the information, so maybe I am wrong. The Language is not precise, there are "Hydropneumatic schock absorbers" from Kayaba (=suspension struts ?) and "Hydropneumatic suspension seals" (is this a clue ?) from Busak and Shamban. The marketing for OEM was "200.000km or 5 years", which may be realistic. Mine are just down a few % after 5 years, and I have IFHS waiting.... |
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jumep
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Member No: #2125
Location: Banka |
Kayaba is producer of normal shock absorbers, so I think they are producing hydraulic pistons (as we here are use to call shock absorbers in hydraulic citroen, C5 got absorbers in sphere, amvar got that electronic absorber) but I don't think that they are producing spheres. If you buy IFHS count on that they won't last long. I think it is better to buy OEM from dealer (here cost 1pcs 112EUR with VAT and you can get 10% discount; IFHS, MONROE or SUPPLEX I am able tu buy around 55EUR) |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Best of both worlds may be to get OEM spheres recharged (=Pleiades in the UK). But OEM spheres are not foolproof, I have had two front failures on units less than 4 years from date of car manufacture (only 55km service miles). My theory on the premature failures is that having the car sitting around for > 1 year before sold was very bad for the sphere membranes (developed a crease or weakness). Regards G |
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jumep
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Member No: #2125
Location: Banka |
BTW: about recharging: Old spheres with old type of membrane are rechargeable because that type of membrane is not perfectly sealed and nitrogen is slowly leaking out through it, so when you recharge it, it is like refiling tank, everything is OK and you have just refiled "consumed" nitrogen. New rubber membrane is better sealed and when nitrogen escapes, it is because the membrane breaks and recharging won't help, nitrogen will leak out again. That is the principle why citroen market it as 200k km / 5 years no service needed, because they finally got it sealed. Again this is the reason why I don't want to buy IFHS (and any other) spheres with old type of membrane. It is like going back in time to year 1980. The strange is that I did not find any producer with new type rubber membrane, this system was designed in 1999, even some Xantia's got "slimline" spheres |
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PercyPorcelain
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 Member No: #2027
Location: London |
Anyone doing DIY sphere recharges in UK? Seem to remember someone posted themselves buying a nitrogen cannister and all the kit but even if you're handy that way (and not a heavy smoker) it's probably a £200 investment. Pleiades quoted me £30 but that's with leaving the sphere with them as they don't have any 'on the shelf' | ||
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Jarecki
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 Member No: #2069
Location: Poznan |
Just buy all set in France (or even Poland) internet shop and finish this long and futile debate. All the cost should be below 400 euro incl. 23% VAT for full 7 pcs set. Is it honest price? How to change ? If you know where is a hammer front - you can do it in one afternoon. 
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
 A good strap wrench will also help to remove them as they should only be on hand tight
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Dan595
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 Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
I've now changed my front three spheres for IFHS - changed the side ones about a month ago and got round to the stiffness sphere and LDS change yesterday. 8 years/150,000 miles. Paid 193 euro including carriage for the three spheres. Couple of things I found: All three removed spheres rattle. Does this mean that they are completely discharged? If so, the stiffness sphere must have failed in the past month as although the ride was poor, it was not terrible. Four litres of LDS was not enough to re-fill the tank up to the correct level (2.2). Makes a big difference to the ride. |
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Dan595
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Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
And the stiffness sphere was _very_ tight - I have a removal tool bought from a seller on ebay.co.uk for £15, worth every penny. | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Dan595 wrote ... And the stiffness sphere was _very_ tight - I have a removal tool bought from a seller on ebay.co.uk for £15, worth every penny. Hi Dan595, thank you for posting that information regarding your experience removing and fitting the new spheres. I'll be heading into that area soon enough myself. Also the removal tool you purchased on eBay, you wouldn't have the link to the seller by any chance? I'll get one ready for removing the stiffness regulator. Kind regards 321dave |
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Dan595
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Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
Sellers name is dexy350, they don't seem to have any listed at the moment. They've clearly made several (both for old green spheres and newer grey saucers) and perhaps will do so again. It's a relatively crude device but works very well. Have something available as an extension bar, the stiffness sphere is a little awkward to get to when applying force to the tool - and the regulator is flexibly mounted so a hammer won't really help. And when you've jacked the car, got the wheel arch liner out and de-pressurised, you don't want to be frustrated by not being able to remove the sphere. You can depressurise the front suspension by the bleed nipple on the regulator (under the sphere) - have a brake bleed tube handy. Very little came out of mine though. Process was: LDS cap off > car to high position > jack at front (both sides) > wheel off > car to low (be aware LDS tank may (will?) overflow) > wheel arch liner off > unscrew bleed nipple > unscrew sphere. You need the wheel arch liner off to change the LDS fluid, so probably worth doing this at the same time. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Dan595 wrote ... Sellers name is dexy350, they don't seem to have any listed at the moment. They've clearly made several (both for old green spheres and newer grey saucers) and perhaps will do so again. It's a relatively crude device but works very well. Have something available as an extension bar, the stiffness sphere is a little awkward to get to when applying force to the tool - and the regulator is flexibly mounted so a hammer won't really help. And when you've jacked the car, got the wheel arch liner out and de-pressurised, you don't want to be frustrated by not being able to remove the sphere. You can depressurise the front suspension by the bleed nipple on the regulator (under the sphere) - have a brake bleed tube handy. Very little came out of mine though. Process was: LDS cap off > car to high position > jack at front (both sides) > wheel off > car to low (be aware LDS tank may (will?) overflow) > wheel arch liner off > unscrew bleed nipple > unscrew sphere. You need the wheel arch liner off to change the LDS fluid, so probably worth doing this at the same time. Thats fantastic! thanks you very much for the setup and removal advice regarding the regulator! Its been a year now since I purchased the C6 and im still working on/off weekends and holidays trying to improve the car bit by bit back to somewhat normal condition (alot of parts worn and in need of replacement). As i think alot of us on the forum are trying to do. Every bit of advice definitely encourages and helps along the way. Much appreciated kind regards 321dave |
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