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Diesel Additive for DPF Filter not Required for C6

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e3steve   
Thu Oct 08 2015, 09:11pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Finished it at 02:30 this morning. So quiet outside, and the rain had moved on, leaving a lovely clear night; we have 7 hectares here and the nearest neighbour is half-a-click away. Thank goodness for my LED-Lenser H7. It was just me and the owls...

She fired up in a heartbeat, with just a Depollution Fault warning (that has gone, come back and gone away again).

My one worry is that I have one M6 X 35mm, 8mm-head machine screw left over... Hmmmmm.
321dave   
Thu Oct 08 2015, 10:47pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
wrote ...

Finished it at 02:30 this morning. So quiet outside, and the rain had moved on, leaving a lovely clear night; we have 7 hectares here and the nearest neighbour is half-a-click away. Thank goodness for my LED-Lenser H7. It was just me and the owls...

She fired up in a heartbeat, with just a Depollution Fault warning (that has gone, come back and gone away again).

My one worry is that I have one M6 X 35mm, 8mm-head machine screw left over... Hmmmmm.




Maybe it's one of the bolts securing the belt cover(s) are those bolts M6?
e3steve   
Fri Oct 09 2015, 11:04am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
321dave wrote ...

wrote ...
...
My one worry is that I have one M6 X 35mm, 8mm-head machine screw left over... Hmmmmm.




Maybe it's one of the bolts securing the belt cover(s) are those bolts M6?
They are, Dave, but they're all captive in the covers' bushings.

I found the screw on the ground, beneath the main pulley area. I don't actually recall dropping it; you know, in the way when you think "I know where that went and I'll retrieve it in a bit...".
cruiserphil   
Fri Oct 09 2015, 01:19pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Shame on you E3!
321dave   
Fri Oct 09 2015, 06:20pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

321dave wrote ...

wrote ...
...
My one worry is that I have one M6 X 35mm, 8mm-head machine screw left over... Hmmmmm.




Maybe it's one of the bolts securing the belt cover(s) are those bolts M6?
They are, Dave, but they're all captive in the covers' bushings.

I found the screw on the ground, beneath the main pulley area. I don't actually recall dropping it; you know, in the way when you think "I know where that went and I'll retrieve it in a bit...".


I know what mean Steve! Bye the way, you mentioned the brand you used was Dayco, I came across a SKF kit as well. There appears to be 4 branded kits available for the 2.7. I think you mentioned that Dayco and Gates are the same parts? In fact the accessories belt from Citroen is a dayco belt.

e3steve   
Fri Oct 09 2015, 08:03pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Interestinger and curiouser! Perhaps my old belt and its installation is the original then. The covers' screws were tight and the black heads showed no socket witness marks.

Thanks Dave!
321dave   
Fri Oct 09 2015, 08:56pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

Interestinger and curiouser! Perhaps my old belt and its installation is the original then. The covers' screws were tight and the black heads showed no socket witness marks.

Thanks Dave!


When I have a go at doing mine Steve, I'll let you know what I find. I'm starting to believe now that I can do the belt change, but I'll need a bit more research first i think. I'm still concerned about things like belt tension, but again that could be just my lack of experience.
e3steve   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 09:37am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Dave, don't be daunted; the job was pretty straightforward. Take plenty of photos. All you need is patience, a day of good weather (or a decently-lit covered area) and a reasonable toolkit.

The belt tensioner is self-setting -- you just need to follow the advice in the Sealey PDF that I linked for you to download -- and does its job once you take up the initial tension as per the instructions.

Tools:
  • Quarter-inch-drive and three-eighths-drive socket set* -- provides flexibility in accessing all the screws & bolts
  • Decent flat-blade screwdrivers
  • Snipe-nosed pliers -- for tensioning the EGR pipes' union clamps
  • A small right-angled pick -- dipped in a Fairy liquid solution to poke into and to free-off the three tiny swirl valve system pipes where they enter the rubber coupler tubes, near to the fuel filter on top of the engine**
  • A 19mm ring spaniard to pull-and-hold the accessories' belt tensioner -- flip the belt off the water pump pulley whilst holding the tensioner, then ease it back and just remove the long 16mm-headed bolt that holds it in place
  • 8mm, 10mm, 13mm & 16mm combination ratchet spanners are a great help!
  • T45 and T50 Torx bits, preferably the three-eighths-drive type -- to remove the top engine mounting
  • A three-eighths-inch (bi-hexagonal) AF socket, preferably three-eighths-drive -- to remove the water pump and crankshaft pulleys***
  • A 21mm half-inch-drive socket and a power-bar (or a ratchet drive with a 60cm tube slipped over it for additional leverage) to hand-turn the crankshaft.

There's a water pump pulley stopper-peg in the Sealey VSE5000A timing kit, along with the "bicycle clip" to hold the new belt on the crank pulley (thanks go to cruiserphil for his advice on this one!). You have to slacken the six camshaft pulleys' 13mm-headed screws -- three on each; Sealey don't recommend using the two timing pegs to counter-hold the pulleys, but I did (along with a gloved hand) to no ill-effects.

You need a jack and a wooden block to support the engine's front end (left-hand end, looking under the bonnet) when the top mounting is removed.

Put the suspension on its highest and remove the r/h front wheel. Then remove the wing liner and the r/h underpanel that incorporates the r/h LDWS sensors (just one connector).

I removed the entire front bumper, as it gives easier access at the front of the car (you can get closer in at knee level!).

* A 16mm socket in the set is essential

** These plastic pipes are very brittle and will easily break off inside the rubber tubes; just pick out the broken bits from inside the tubes with snipe-nosed pliers -- the pipes can then be re-inserted when you re-assemble. TIP: ID each pipe and its respective location with different coloured 2.4mm Ty-wraps (or none, one and two if you have only one colour).

*** If any of the heads of the reverse-Torx M8 screws is damaged, you can tap a 9mm bi-hex socket onto it. This only works if the head is a bit chewed!

G'luck!
321dave   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 10:23am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
That's brilliant Steve!! Many thanks for that great list! I ordered the Dayco kit online this morning, so I'm getting ready now. I'll let you how it goes, all I need now is a good window of time (the hard bit at the moment) but I am strangely lookin forward to doing the work now. Bye the way, what colour we're the pulley rollers ( for want of a better description) blue of black when you got in to the belt & pulley area?
I think Dayco are black and SKF have blue centres.

Thanks again Steve
e3steve   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 10:24am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Dave, without wishing to worry you (!) I'd suggest you don't leave the job for too much longer. Especially for your own peace of mind.

There was a 2007 C6 2.7 on eBay in 2013 (I followed a CCC link to it -- it sold for £2800-ish) that had covered 97,000 miles and had fsh. It's cam belt had failed, wrecking the engine....

Edit: the idlers' bearing seals are blue; they're Japanese bearings. The tensioner is black. All are identical to the original ones.
321dave   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 11:02am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

Dave, without wishing to worry you (!) I'd suggest you don't leave the job for too much longer. Especially for your own peace of mind.

There was a 2007 C6 2.7 on eBay in 2013 (I followed a CCC link to it -- it sold for £2800-ish) that had covered 97,000 miles and had fsh. It's cam belt had failed, wrecking the engine....

Edit: the idlers' bearing seals are blue; they're Japanese bearings. The tensioner is black. All are identical to the original ones.


Thanks Steve, it was up until recently a footnote in my minds list to start sorting it out. But now it's moved right up the priority one list. I Should have all the equipment and parts together to do the job by next weekend. I'm fairly competent as a mechanic, But I'm unfortuenatly a bit slow, that's my weakness. I tent to enjoy the mechanical side of things a bit to much!! But I'll get it sorted. Many thanks again for the great posts this week. I'm as ready as I'll every be!!!
e3steve   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 01:46pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Do you need the Sealey kit? I have it here, in France. Not back UK-side till Weds.
cruiserphil   
Sat Oct 10 2015, 10:14pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
E3,

As a matter of interest how did you lock the crankshaft to remove the crankshaft pulley?
Best regards,

Phil C.
321dave   
Sun Oct 11 2015, 01:48am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
e3steve wrote ...

Do you need the Sealey kit? I have it here, in France. Not back UK-side till Weds.


Thanks for the kind offer Steve, I bought a few bits of tooling in preparation a few months back. - Click Here - what do you think? Should be fine. It's the same kit used in the ccc club, 2.7 timing belt tutorial.
e3steve   
Sun Oct 11 2015, 11:51am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
cruiserphil wrote ...

E3,

As a matter of interest how did you lock the crankshaft to remove the crankshaft pulley?
Best regards,

Phil C.
I didn't need to Phil. There was a couple of them that created a bit of crank movement, but the cylinder compression held it at bay until each screw gave up.
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