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I got a very well kept C6

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Radox   
Tue Aug 27 2019, 06:58pm
Joined: Aug 27 2019
Member No: #4044
Location: Bad Bergzabern
Hello everyone, glad to have found this useful forum. About a month ago, I bougth a 2007 Citroen C6 2.7 HDI Exclusive with only 115.000 km on it! I was in love with the car for about 3 years and last month FINALLY succeeded in finding one that I wanted - black metallic with beige cream leather inside. It looks incredible, the most beautiful car interior I have ever sat in. The car also has the Lounge Pack seats option, although I only found out about these seats after I drove it home

The engine and the gearbox seem in perfect condition, I have already made about 5000km with the car and it runs seamlessly. However, it has some minor electrical issues, a broken daytime running light, a screeching driver door hinge etc. That's why next month I will go to an official Citroen dealer and have everything fixed, including oil changes, filter changes, completely new paintjob, new Michelin winter tyres etc. I will also change the [%*^#@!] Rivazza 17'' wheels with brand new Atlantique 18''s.

Now, I have 2 questions for you, the more experienced owners of the C6:

1. Is there anything that I must have specifically checked when I'm at the Citroen dealer, some part that breaks often, something with the turbochargers, the suspension spheres, etc???

2. What type of cable exactly do I need in order to connect a smartphone to the three yellow/red/white jacks in the glovebox so I can play music from the phone on the archaic infotainment system? That will be very appreciated.

So, in all, I think I was right for wanting the car for so long. I am not disappointed at all, there's not a single thing about this masterpiece I do not like. Except probably the pretty small boot and the very clumsy RT3 infotainment screen



3 User said Thank You to Radox for this Post :
 MikkelCPH (27 August 2019) , 321dave (28 August 2019) , cruiserphil (29 August 2019)
C6Dave   
Wed Aug 28 2019, 11:10am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Going through the video input jacks is probably not the way to go these days on an RT3 unit. With RT4 you can plug a lead into the head unit with a USB jack but there are options.

Try something like a bluetooth transmitter that plugs into the lighter socket and tunes to an unused radio frequency - Click Here -

Lots of alternatives out there.
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2 User said Thank You to C6Dave for this Post :
 cruiserphil (29 August 2019) , Radox (03 September 2019)
Paulius   
Sun Sep 01 2019, 08:21am
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
It looks great!

I would definitely:
Check for the coolant return pipe corrosion under the left front wheel arc. Actually, I would just cut it off ant replace the entire section with rubber. (mine was starting to leak)
Check for oil pressure - those engines are really terrible. There are many myths surrounding it, but one thing is for sure - it's crankshaft is really weak and so are their oil pumps which tend to not supply enough pressure (hinted by louder clarkering of the valves/compensators for a few seconds after the startup). (my engine is about to go)
Change oil every 10k kms
Change transmission oil (mine shifted quite bad until i changed the oil)
Check if the ride height is correct and if the AMVAR actuators are working correctly (possible to do with LEXIA) for best ride comfort. (my ride heigh had drifted over the years and my rear-left amvar actuator was stuck a few "steps" harder)
1 User said Thank You to Paulius for this Post :
 Radox (03 September 2019)
MarkBevan   
Sun Sep 01 2019, 12:32pm
Joined: Jun 08 2017
Member No: #3172
Location: Enfield
Connecting a smartphone to the infotainment system wise:

The cable is a 2 male RCA's to a 3.5mm stereo auxiliary jack jobbie (assuming that your smartphone has a normal headphone socket). Nothing needs to plug into the the 3rd yellow socket on the video input in the glovebox, as that's only for video. A cable like this would be fine: Cable

You will probably get better quality sound using a wire, than a Bluetooth FM Transmitter as C6Dave suggested (although thee volume is limited with a wire). A Bluetooth FM transmitter would certainly be more convenient, and less messy.

C6's seem to have deeper than usual cigarette lighter sockets. Not all accessories are long enough to fit.

I bought this Bluetooth FM transmitter for my son's car recently, it works fine and fits his car, but is too short for the C6: Bluetooth FM transmitter 1
I bought this one for the C6 and it was also too short: Bluetooth FM transmitter 2

I also bought these USB chargers recently and they are a bit too short (but because they are narrow, they can be pushed down far enough in a C6): USB charger


1 User said Thank You to MarkBevan for this Post :
 Radox (03 September 2019)
Radox   
Tue Sep 03 2019, 05:26am
Joined: Aug 27 2019
Member No: #4044
Location: Bad Bergzabern
Paulius wrote ...

It looks great!

I would definitely:
Check for the coolant return pipe corrosion under the left front wheel arc. Actually, I would just cut it off ant replace the entire section with rubber. (mine was starting to leak)
Check for oil pressure - those engines are really terrible. There are many myths surrounding it, but one thing is for sure - it's crankshaft is really weak and so are their oil pumps which tend to not supply enough pressure (hinted by louder clarkering of the valves/compensators for a few seconds after the startup). (my engine is about to go)
Change oil every 10k kms
Change transmission oil (mine shifted quite bad until i changed the oil)
Check if the ride height is correct and if the AMVAR actuators are working correctly (possible to do with LEXIA) for best ride comfort. (my ride heigh had drifted over the years and my rear-left amvar actuator was stuck a few "steps" harder)



My car makes exactly this clanking for 3-4 seconds after startup! Please tell me more about it!

I also have a strange problem with my suspension. Or probably is it no problem at all? I don't know the car so good yet and don't know if these things are normal.

1. When I unlock the car, from underneath it always comes a loud sound, which resembles a running pump. The sound lasts about 5 seconds and stops. Is this sound present in your C6?

2. After I have unlocked the car and the sound has stopped, first the rear part of the car rises and only after it has reached sufficient height, the front part begins to rise. Don't all 4 wheels have to rise simultaneously?

3. When I have driven the car and stop it and turn off the engine, the front half of the car sinks very fast, in less than a second. Only after this, the rear part sinks slowly. I am pretty sure that the entire car must lower itself slowly upon turning off the engine and not first the front wheels and then the rear ones?

If these 3 thing are not normal, what can be the cause of them? Worn spheres? Hydraulic pump? Suspension computer?

Thanks for the answers!
Paulius   
Tue Sep 03 2019, 05:24pm
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
1. Well, check your oil pressure at a service then. Most of the 2.7 HDIs sound like that. Maybe the compensators are worn.. I am not myself sure on this and input from fellow owners would be helpful.

2. If the car sinks during night, after "waking it up" (unlocking, for example), itraises to it's "ignition off" height. There can be a few reasons for it to sink, but if it doesn't get very low and there are no oil puddles under your car, it should be okay. One of my front strus is leaky and therefore it sometimes drops it's "nose" a bit, but it isn't loosing too much fluid and I'll only replace it once it starts leaking worse.

A logical reason for that height 'readjustment' on waking up is that so you don't hit your doors to a curb once it lowers out of your control.

Once you turn on your ignition, it raises to it's "working" height. It changes it's height front and rear separately, just as you described. The reason for that is that while any left-right wheel pair share the same amount of fluid (therefore same ride height), it needs to be able to adjust front and rear heights independently anyways (to compensate for the load) so it just routes it's pump to the rear and then to the front. It's just easier to route everything like that.

And when it is lowering, front does indeed do it much faster than the rear, perhaps it's got something to do with the fact that fluid has to travel a longer way from the rear to the front where the reservoir is. All that longer piping adds some resistance. It uses somewhat thinner pipes for all the height changing (adding or removing fluid from front or rear), but the pipes within front/rear "closed from each other" systems are wide so that it can spring to the spheres without piping resistance.

An interesting fact is that it also readjusts it's height every time you close the doors. If someone exits the car, it raises up because of the missing weight. When close all doors, it raises up or lowers to it's predefined height.

Hydropneumatic suspension has a lot more 'virtual' travel than a spring suspension therefore it is quite sensitive to height changes and needs to readjust itself after load changes. The whole height changing thing is not a gimmick, it is necessary for it to function, and ability to manually change it is just a 'bonus'.


Hopefully my insights were useful or at least interesting.
2 User said Thank You to Paulius for this Post :
 321dave (03 September 2019) , Radox (03 September 2019)
Radox   
Tue Sep 03 2019, 06:45pm
Joined: Aug 27 2019
Member No: #4044
Location: Bad Bergzabern
Paulius wrote ...

1. Well, check your oil pressure at a service then. Most of the 2.7 HDIs sound like that. Maybe the compensators are worn.. I am not myself sure on this and input from fellow owners would be helpful.

2. If the car sinks during night, after "waking it up" (unlocking, for example), itraises to it's "ignition off" height. There can be a few reasons for it to sink, but if it doesn't get very low and there are no oil puddles under your car, it should be okay. One of my front strus is leaky and therefore it sometimes drops it's "nose" a bit, but it isn't loosing too much fluid and I'll only replace it once it starts leaking worse.

A logical reason for that height 'readjustment' on waking up is that so you don't hit your doors to a curb once it lowers out of your control.

Once you turn on your ignition, it raises to it's "working" height. It changes it's height front and rear separately, just as you described. The reason for that is that while any left-right wheel pair share the same amount of fluid (therefore same ride height), it needs to be able to adjust front and rear heights independently anyways (to compensate for the load) so it just routes it's pump to the rear and then to the front. It's just easier to route everything like that.
And when it is lowering, front does indeed do it much faster than the rear, perhaps it's got something to do with the fact that fluid has to travel a longer way from the rear to the front where the reservoir is. All that longer piping adds some resistance. It uses somewhat thinner pipes for all the height changing (adding or removing fluid from front or rear), but the pipes within front/rear "closed from each other" systems are wide so that it can spring to the spheres without piping resistance.

An interesting fact is that it also readjusts it's height every time you close the doors. If someone exits the car, it raises up because of the missing weight. When close all doors, it raises up or lowers to it's predefined height. Hydropneumatic suspension has a lot more 'virtual' travel than a spring suspension therefore it is quite sensitive to height changes and needs to readjust itself after load changes. The whole height changing thing is not a gimmick, it is necessary for it to function, and ability to manually change it is just a 'bonus'.


Hopefully my insights were useful or at least interesting.


Thanks for the tips! So, it seems normal after all? I have absolutely no leaks, the cars rises immediately upon unlocking, the 4 selectable levels of the suspension function perfectly. I just had fear that the front lowers so quickly after turn the engine.

So what about the clanking noise from the engine in the first few seconds after start? You scared me that my engine is going to blow pretty soon! I don't know if I'll be able to sleep tonight.

Can I fix it by changing the oil pump?
C6Dave   
Tue Sep 03 2019, 07:11pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
You will always get some noise on startup until the hydraulic tappets fill.

On a high mileage engine there will be some wear in the system making things a bit worse but yours isn't 'high mileage'

It all depends on what you feel is 'loud' as a diesel engine by it's nature will always be noisier than a petrol.
Website
1 User said Thank You to C6Dave for this Post :
 Radox (03 September 2019)
 

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