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C6 Half Moon door Bin cover removal |
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yorkxx
 
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  Member No: #1005
Location: Scotland |
Hi, I have an annoying rattle coming from the Half Moon door bin cover on back door drivers side, I could fix it if I knew how to remove the sliding drawer. Any Ideas? Thanks Cheers |
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C6Dave
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    Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Never tried to be honest, have a look at the 'Front Door Stripping' guide: - Click Here - and see if that helps | ||
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Yorkxx, I have a rattle/squeak from drivers door trim (around arm rest). When I push my knee against it, the rattle stops. One of those jobs I may get around to, presumably by stripping the door inner. I also need to polish out a scratch from the half moon cover. Sounds as though we should post in the event of any progress. Regards G |
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theguardian
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  Member No: #645
Location: reading berkshire |
hi guys just to let you know when i asked citroen about door bin replacement they told me i had to buy the whole thing ie door card as its a one piece unit i havnt looked but if it does come off please post on here asi have a scratch that needs doing as well regards ron |
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yorkxx
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Member No: #1005
Location: Scotland |
Hi Guy's, HALF MOON DOOR....fix. Right! I've stripped the whole thing down and re-built it in 1.5 hours, it's quite simple, but you have to be very careful. 1. remove the ashtray inner tray, remove x1 Torex small screw, remove whole ashtray case, (careful here as it's spring loaded) 2. pull down half moon drawer to stop, remove x3 large Torex screws under armrest. 3. remove tweeter speaker/cover by gently pulling all round, be careful with left hand side as it has a plastic guide clip that will break easy, use small flat screwdriver to remove plug connector at back of tweeter by pushing small snap clips that hold plug firm, easy with it though. 4. remove seat adjust/window switch holder by prizing up with finger, it comes out easily, at this point don't do what I did and tug, that broke the window switch luckily it popped apart and did not snap so it went back together easily enough. if it feels tight you will have to leave switch removal till you remove the door cover, what ever you do be careful with this. 5. Put fingers on bottom of the door and pull firm but carefully, it should pop off, it will be hinged at the top of the panel attached in a groove at window side, just lift it up carefully, I should point out that an old cloth should be on the ground and also something you can rest the door cover on till you disconnect the plugs at the back of the door cover. At this point be careful as the window switch has not got a lot of spare wire and is tight to say the least (Ref to no4). pop off the plastic wire retainer on door carefully as they/it may break. Disconnect the window switch, then seat adjust if fitted (Lounge pack) REMEMBER keep door cover supported at all times! You will see little bead clips that hold the door cover in place, make sure these are not broken and are all in place and intact, as they cause rattles if not in place when cover is put back on. You can prise these clips (on Door) out with two small screwdrivers if you need to 6. carefully swing out door cover. DO NOT TRY to remove the plug from the plastic/glass illumination rod (Ambient Light) leave it intact for now and be aware of how delicate it is! 7. get hold of a 9mm box key and remove all the (Citroen home made tin nuts), you'll see what I mean by home made, these do not require any force to remove or replace, they could be easily damaged. 8. remove the plastic back cover by undoing x4 clasp/clips pop of the black plastic cover after removal of nuts, remove the polystyrene spacer block to reveal more screws, stick back on later with super glue (Tip; Put gaffa tape around the outer of this block to stop future squeaks), you should remove around 20 nasty tin nuts from plastic bolts. remove door light from bottom and remember the red half/lens faces to the rear of the car when putting back. This light has two colours red and white/clear 9. Back to the Plastic/Glass rod/Ambiance light. remove it intact with wire and plug attached remember the orientation of it and it's position after removing all tin nuts from door (plastic panel cover.) By this time you should be ready to disassemble the back plastic rear of the door cover X3 parts, *Remember their overlapping positions!!!!!! * 10. pull out the Half moon drawer from front, make sure drawer is open at this point. At the top of the drawer on the sliding runners there are two rubber stops + hook type connector you can't see. Carefully leaver out drawer to 45dg angle and wiggle and pull, it should come out?!? 11. you should now be able to remove and inspect the Half Moon drawer, by the way it's a complicated bit of kit, so don't be going opening it up ok! Unless your very competent, you're warned! 12. you should by now be able to have the whole door cover removed from the door and be free of all wires, leave it in a safe place. 13. THE HALF MOON DOOR*. lubricate all joints and inner parts/sliders etc with White sticky spray grease, this stops the rattles otherwise it's a strip down of the Half Moon door and I don't fancy doing that! CHECK FOR RATTLES by supporting and tapping on door? Re-assembly........ table required with cover towel not to damage HM wood facia! 14. on a table with part of the door hanging over the edge (top half) replace the Half Moon drawer and remember the whole procedure in reverse. Tips. 1. do not over-tighten Tin nuts. 2. make sure ALL bead snap clips on door are intact and used otherwise they rattle + buzz. 3. (pull through on assembly,) the window switch plug, the seat adjust switch plug and the bottom door light plug then snap on the full door cover once reassembled, connect bottom door light/window switch and seat switch plugs to their appropriated components etc (if fitted, (Lounge pack.) Note* it is difficult to describe all of this, hope I've managed to remember all, got to say if I'd read this before I tackled the job I would have been forearmed or scared out my wits. he he! Citroen hadn't a clue how to do this by-the-way, never done it, they at least have the ability to replace any parts they break when tackling for the 1st time...... we don't! I do hope this helps anyone who want's to try, it's common sense not to pull and haul, just remember to methodically do it step by step, it is quite awkward at times, but I'm sure anyone with a little knowledge can do this. Any questions please ask. Cheers |
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theguardian
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Member No: #645
Location: reading berkshire |
well done fella ill give it a go one assumes the back door is the same bar the tweeter speaker regards ron |
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yorkxx
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Member No: #1005
Location: Scotland |
Hi theguardian, yes I would imagine so but the front door has more electrics, ie; seat adjustments etc, I would be very careful with those if you do try. Can I suggest to you that you try the following first? 1. remove all the screws that attach the door card, there should be X4, (see removal in initial post) then using a thin firm plastic flat item prise the door all around, but you must put double layer Gaffa tape on paintwork first, then slide in the plastic thing'y as a leaver, now as you do so - if you go all around by putting it in at different places at say 3 inches apart you should be able to determine whether of not your Ball Snapper type studs/clips are all in place. I mean if the door edge rises it may mean the door cover is not clipped on properly. This could well be your rattle problem. Reason; the female side if the clip floats about to allow push-stud/ball/male side to clip in place, now the only way you can do this is by using clenched fist pad-end to hit over each stud with force on door cover over each the stud, even then you may have to use a thin screwdriver to align each stud looking through the narrowest of gaps where the cover meets the door, that's what I had to do with one of the clips three or four times, a bright torch and magnifying glasses are good here. It's the little female cover clips that mostly cause the rattle, and as I said in earlier post they must all be in good condition and be able to hold their part of the door as the Half Moon is the heaviest part. As for polishing out scratches, I would do it on the door with the Half moon door closed and gaffa taped so it wont move, not unless you need to re lacquer it? May I also suggest rather than lacquer or repair, smooth it out then colour it (I don't know how bad it is) then get high gloss clear plastic rap like they use on car body work to change colour, they should only take a couple of quid for doing that, it may well save you a lot of money doing it that way, just a suggestion?! Citroen say the Half Moon is wood? I doubt that as it looks like plastic to me. Hope this helps. UPDATE: Update on the the Half Moon door cover removal etc. Reason for me working on the front N/S door was due to wind noise coming from the wing mirror holder where the door meets the rubber on the car, I guess at some point the Mirror and holder has been replaced due to it being hit by a passing car or something, and not been fitted properly, well it's sorted now! I tackled the front door yesterday and it's more complicated than I first thought due to the Door tweeter. 1. using rubber gloves, carefully squeeze the outer cover and press around this cover, the gloves will help you remove due to more grip. 2. Pop out the Tweeter, careful here and MAKE SURE you note/mark with tippex/paint etc orientation of Tweeter as it's a tricky fit when it comes to putting it back in. 3. remove the screws holding the Tweeter holder, NOTE* there are two large Torex screws and two smaller ones, NOTE where the larger Torex screw came from if you remove mirror, now there are 3 screws holding the Tweeter cradle in place and one doubles up for mirror holding by the looks. 4. once you have the Tweeter cradle/holder out be damn careful here, I let it dangle, but watched it carefully with every movement and adjustment, you could remove it altogether with a small screwdriver at the plug, but having experience with audio equipment they are usually brittle so I left it in place. 5. I had no difficulty with the window switch this time as it had lot's of wire, I used an upside down bucket with an old towel to support the door cover once off, careful once more here, make sure you have it balanced correctly. 6. refer to my other Post on back door Half Moon removal from now on as it's just the same, only difference is the seat adjustment switch and Tweeter, the Tweeter was awkward as I could see no way how it would click back into place, this was due to me not marking down orientation at the beginning. Any questions pleas ask. Cheers |
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citrohanc6
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 Member No: #329
Location: utrecht |
Doug, did you see any adjustment screws concerning window alignment? Winus |
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yorkxx
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Member No: #1005
Location: Scotland |
citrohanc6 wrote ... Doug, did you see any adjustment screws concerning window alignment? Winus Hi Yes, sorry meant to come back to you re this my apologies for being late! Yes there are a couple, but I only needed to adjust one bolt once the screws were removed from the back of the Tweeter, from the Tweeter go down about 12" in straight line and there is a black paper type cover, you must burst through this to get to the window guide/bolt inside the door cover it up with gaffa tape when finished, the guide is also part of the triangle rubber the mirror attaches to, you will only be able to adjust this bracket by about 4mm maybe 6mm max, I put force on to the rubber angle and held it in place, then tightened up the 10mm bolt, this stopped the wind noise effectively. I kept checking it against the drivers side till I got it the same. If you need to adjust the lock side of the window there is a Black circular patch at the top of the door check, above the inner lock, I'm sure thats one of the bolts that adjusts the outer window guide, then there must be another the same as the one I adjusted at the inner door near the hinge. Hope this helps? Cheers Doug |
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yorkxx
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Member No: #1005
Location: Scotland |
Further to the above something just sprung to mind! I know this my well be different, but think the principle may apply. When I had my Citroen C4 coupe I noticed that after a visit to have a tyre replaced there was a wind noise from the passengers side door frame and the door striker was out of alignment too, not by much though, but enough to annoy me, so by coincidence I had the opportunity to see the guy fitting the tyre, normally I'd leave the car with them. I noticed when jacking up the car he had the passengers door open slightly, he got the Locking nut key from the glove compartment, I reckon the car door/pillar flexed or the body did so in some way? The wind noise fix was simply rectified, I opened the door to a 45dg angle and lifted it hand at bottom, hand on top of door and shoulder on door frame, did it twice and the door closed normally with full striker alignment and no further wind noise. Now I've had issues with wind noise on my C6 too as you can see on other posts, I do believe the car door has been struck at the mirror or the door bashed in some way, the door looks original, but could be a good job, anyway this could well be one reason why wind noise happens, I would suggest Citroens be jacked up with doors closed at all time where possible. Cheers |
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jckv
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 Member No: #2701
Location: Monte Carlo |
Hi! Wonderful guide, used it some months ago. I also applied some butyl glue to alle the thin tin bolts. But now, the door bin does not glide back "slowly" but instead the up part, with a "rrrttt" noise, and too fast… Annoys me;) Anyone took apart the half moon bin itsself? So take off the door panel, and take the bin out, and take this item apart? Also the clips that hold the panel to the door; these have a modification from Citroen The white clips are new/modified Yellow/pink are old Mine is from 2007 and had the yellow/pink ones Greetings Joep |
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