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Rear abs hack

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Petrolhead   
Fri Jul 21 2017, 09:57AM
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Hi,

My 2.7 is dying, it's done 120K and tbh I spent more money in the last 2 years than I should. New Cambelt and tensioner, Discs, Tyres, Dashboard repair etc etc.

Has a leaking front strut and to make matters worse now has a failed rear abs sensor (replaced both 18~24 months ago maybe)!

I've just emigrated to Germany and tbh could just do with another 6 months life out of it.

Has anyone ever tried routeing a new abs sensor some other way? Up into the cabin and then drill a hole into the wheel arch!!! I know that is terrible to suggest but getting a garage to fit it is big money.

I just have to stop pouring money into it, but need the towbar for another 6 months!

I will btw be incredible said to see it go, I've owned it since 4.5K and it is still a brilliant car to drive around in. But its failing in every way possible now.
gmerry   
Fri Jul 21 2017, 11:48AM
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
The only ABS "hack" which makes any sense, is to only lower the fuel tank a small amount (instead of removal) and pull the replacement sensor through the over tank routing, using the old sensor. OK, so the sensor cable will not be routed as per design through the plastic fuel tank moldings!

Note there is already a purpose drilled hole through the bodywork for the ABS cable, so why on earth would you want to drill a 2nd?

e3steve   
Fri Jul 21 2017, 04:36PM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Petrolhead wrote ...

Hi,

My 2.7 is dying, it's done 120K and tbh I spent more money in the last 2 years than I should. New Cambelt and tensioner, Discs, Tyres, Dashboard repair etc etc.

Has a leaking front strut and to make matters worse now has a failed rear abs sensor (replaced both 18~24 months ago maybe)!

I've just emigrated to Germany and tbh could just do with another 6 months life out of it.

Has anyone ever tried routeing a new abs sensor some other way? Up into the cabin and then drill a hole into the wheel arch!!! I know that is terrible to suggest but getting a garage to fit it is big money.

I just have to stop pouring money into it, but need the towbar for another 6 months!

I will btw be incredible said to see it go, I've owned it since 4.5K and it is still a brilliant car to drive around in. But its failing in every way possible now.
The rhs can be replaced by just removing the tank strap screws -- two 13mm-head, close to the centreline, and one 16mm-head, above the long-ish plastic cover below the rear door -- then lowering the tank and let it hang on the filler tube. Tank should be 'in the red [orange]', or it'll be too heavy for the filler neck to sympathetically support it.

Wheel off (obviously), r/h rear seat out, pop off the round cover.

If it's the lhs: remove the tail-box then lower the exhaust; hang it, using some tywraps, about 20cm clear of the tank's underside, remove the plastic covers flanking both sides of the tank, remove the EOLYS fluid tank from the fuel tank then lower and support the fuel tank at about 15cm from the floor pan. No other choice. Plus, the sensors are impedance-sensitive -- about 470R for the rears and about 270R for the fronts --, so if the cable is too long or too short then the system will report a failure.

The only other option is to ignore the damned beeps (ABS/ESP fault, then Handbrake fault)!

Guido   
Tue Oct 24 2017, 03:03PM
Joined: Sep 08 2016
Member No: #2777
Location: Beaulieu
Hi,
I have only just seen this thread, so my response may be too late.

Not much tempted to lower or remove the fuel tank, I decided to cut the wire near the sensor and connect the new sensor to the existing wire. But the impedance of both sensors is about 770 ohms measured at the connectors under the rear seat, not 470 ohms as indicated by e3steve. I

bought the new sensors through eBay from an English supplier, but I did not measure the impedance as I didn’t know.

However, the speedometer is working again and so is the power steering, which apparently depend on the rear right hand side sensor. Unfortunately, I still do not have ABS, ESP and the handbrake. I don’t know if the higher impedance is causing these errors, I cannot read the diagrams. Sometimes the handbrake will engage a few minutes after the engine is cut.

I do not want to consult the nearby Citroën dealer since he has never seen a C6 other than in a brochure, also I do not trust them since they twice messed up the repair of the airconditioning of my XM. I live in a rural area of Burgundy where a C6 is extremely rare as was a XM. C6owners.org has been very helpful in keeping my C6 running so hats off to all of you!

Does anybody know which circuits depend on the four wheel speed sensors?

Thanks,
Guido.
1 User said Thank You to Guido for this Post :
 e3steve (25 Oct : 10:05)
Paulius   
Tue Oct 24 2017, 05:39PM
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
Drill holes?
e3steve   
Wed Oct 25 2017, 10:17AM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Owing to my own lack of foresight — and having used cheapo wheel sensors! — I ended up replacing the rears a second time (with Delphi ones). I managed to do them without dropping the exhaust system, and I posted the method in another thread on here.

I measured the impedance of the new ones; that should be in the aforementioned thread...
 

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