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Fixed rear turbo without getting it out

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travlician   
Wed Jul 05 2017, 06:56pm
Joined: Jan 22 2011
Member No: #350
Location: Paradera
For about a year I had problems with the rear turbo, Lexia gave me error code P0243 which means the vane control is not working (mechanical problem they say). Investigating this the first reason would be the vanes not being able to move.

Since today I had the DPF out for cleaning (another story...), I saw some space to check at least if the vanes were stuck. I took of the spring ring from the actuator arm of the vane controller and found it moved pretty nice. So that was not the problem.

Investigating a bit more I found this controller is prone to failure because of bad contacts inside, see - Click Here - . So I ventured getting the three bolts of (after also removing the electrical connector). The three bolts are the lowest three present, a tedious job but can be done. Especially the one in front is tricky. I open the controller by removing the 6 clips and found 1 contact being loose. Re soldered it as shown in the video (although cleaning was done with a kitchen knife and not with a rotating tool).

Checked the controller by have it dangling under the car on its electrical wire and using Lexia to test the actuator. It showed fine! Then put everything back in reverse order, mounted the (cleaned) DPF and tried to regenerate (which failed before because of the turbo issue, most of the times..) and that went smooth!

So, turbo fixed and DPF cleaned in 8 hours of work, no parts, I'm happy!
5 User said Thank You to travlician for this Post :
 MarkBevan (05 Jul : 19:59) , gmerry (05 Jul : 20:16) , Hattershaun (05 Jul : 23:18) , e3steve (06 Jul : 06:33) , 321dave (06 Jul : 15:01)
321dave   
Thu Jul 06 2017, 03:06pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Travlician, you didn't by any chance take a few photos of the DPF removal/cleaning & reinstallation process! It's a destination a few of us will be visiting soon enough, unfortunately. Many thanks for your great contributions to the forum bye the way.

Paulius   
Wed Nov 29 2017, 12:47pm
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
Unfortunately, I got the same error message and the infamous limp mode.

Does anyone know, how hard it is to actually remove the turbo in case there is a mechanical problem? Do you need to drop the engine or something?

I need to know this in advance, since I'm looking for the right place to fix this problem.
vaho   
Wed Nov 29 2017, 02:42pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
I have changed my rear turbo. Initially wanted to do it myself but finally turned to the dealer. No need to drop the engine. I have studied the removal procedure: you have to remove the DPF assembly, then the rear catalyst attached to the turbo, rear EGR valve (not sure about that) and then you can remove the whole exhaust manifold with turbo. You separate the turbo from the manifold on the bench. There is no seal between them. New seals needed: exhaust manifold seal, turbo oil inlet and outlet seals, I changed the oil inlet screw also. Also you need a manifold guidance pin for the correct alignment. The seals and pin are cheap. The official timing for the replacement according to Citroen is 5,4 hours if I remember it correctly.
5 User said Thank You to vaho for this Post :
 Paulius (29 Nov : 14:51) , cruiserphil (29 Nov : 18:50) , Cisco (29 Nov : 19:37) , 321dave (30 Nov : 11:12) , e3steve (01 Dec : 00:30)
Paulius   
Wed Nov 29 2017, 02:52pm
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
Thank you very much, this very feedback is very valuable. One workshop told me that an engine drop was necessary for such a procedure, and the quote was through the roof. THANKS AGAIN!
vaho   
Thu Nov 30 2017, 07:54am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Your welcome! There is a replacement procedure in the technical section also: - Click Here -
Paulius   
Tue Dec 05 2017, 09:14pm
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
Okay, so I got the actuator fixed. The electronics were dead (the infamous wires were okay though). Bought a used actuator from a breaker's yard, but it's mechanics were in worse condition (more play, etc) than mine's, so I just made one out of two.

It's possible to get it replaced without dismantling ANYTHING at all! But it's a really tight fit.

Good thing is that it turned out to be a myth, that it is necessary to remove the turbo and "calibrate" it to the actuator. I highly doubt that they were "calibrating" actuators in the factory.

Now the car is out of the limp mode and runs perfect. Check engine light is gone too. Unfortunately, trying to erase the permanent faults using Diagbox "fails". :/
1 User said Thank You to Paulius for this Post :
 cruiserphil (06 Dec : 20:11)
 

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