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LDS leaky HP pipe assembly replacement...
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e3steve   
Sat Apr 22 2017, 06:15pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 The one with the crimped flexi section around the midpoint -- usually sleeved with a concertina-type Nylon jacket -- and runs from the rear of the LDS pump block to the comfort sphere block, which is ahead of the r/h front wheel.

Part nr is 5270VN; it's about £120; I replaced mine a fortnight ago, and it takes a couple of hours:

Suspension on highest setting -
Bumper off (after removing both front wing forward liners, incorporating the LDWS sensors, and the forward centre undertray section)
R/h headlamp out
Turn the steering hardover to the right
REMOVE THE VERTICAL BRACE (two bolts, 16mm & 18mm heads) fwd/inboard of the comfort sphere
Disconnect the three little connectors from the w/screen wash reservoir (they're colour coded) under the sphere
Remove the 10mm hex-head machine screw (bolts have shanks; machine screws -- or simply just "screws" -- are fully threaded!) from the bottom of the w/screen wash reservoir
Lift-and-pivot the reservoir on the upper Pop-rivet and support it with ty-wraps
Suspension on lowest setting -
Disconnect the main power and the single-wire connector from the LDS pump motor
Manipulate coolant/hydraulic hoses away from the work area and do the same ty-wrap thing
Depressurise the LDS system (not certain if this is essential, but I did it anyway)

Notes:
There are two P-clip-type retainers under 10mm nuts along the pipe (a ratchet spaniard is helpful); these support the rigid sections before and after the flexi crimps. These are best removed before dropping the suspension. One is alongside the LDS pump body, the other is close to the comfort sphere and within the wheel arch; there's also a plastic snap-over clip behind from where the brace is removed, ahead of the comfort sphere.

Removal of the comfort sphere isn't necessary.

The unions are 11mm A/F 'nuts'.

Ensure that the tiny Green O-rings and the white spacers come out with the pipe!

You'll need a small, strong light to show you the way.
cruiserphil   
Tue Apr 25 2017, 04:15pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 E3 Steve,

Phew! Not wanting to be a spoil sport, but I fitted said pipe several weeks ago to the 2.7. What I did was remove the forward right hand wheel arch liner (and undertray of course) and the intercooler pipe to the butterfly box. I also depressurised. To fit the new pipe, I found I could feed it through the gap forward of the drop link you refer to from the comfort sphere side. Working then under the car, I had room to maneouvre the pipe and rotate it into position.

Unfortunately it took me two hours to figure out how to do it, after repeatedly trying to install it from the engine side and failing. Weary, I took a break and while rambling to the local shop for a breakfast roll to console myself, I thought of the gap in front of the drop link and would the pipe feed in from the opposite side? So after said breakfast roll and a cup of tea, I had the pipe installed quickly.

Hope this helps,

Best regards,

Phil C.
robingc33   
Tue Apr 25 2017, 05:10pm
Joined: Aug 25 2015
Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex
 Great info thanks guys.
Robin
321dave   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 06:59am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
robingc33 wrote ...

Great info thanks guys.
Robin



I second that sentiment. Learned something new from those postings guys.
e3steve   
Sat Apr 29 2017, 08:04am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
cruiserphil wrote ...

E3 Steve,

Phew! Not wanting to be a spoil sport, but I fitted said pipe several weeks ago to the 2.7. What I did was remove the forward right hand wheel arch liner (and undertray of course) and the intercooler pipe to the butterfly box. I also depressurised. To fit the new pipe, I found I could feed it through the gap forward of the drop link you refer to from the comfort sphere side. Working then under the car, I had room to maneouvre the pipe and rotate it into position.

Unfortunately it took me two hours to figure out how to do it, after repeatedly trying to install it from the engine side and failing. Weary, I took a break and while rambling to the local shop for a breakfast roll to console myself, I thought of the gap in front of the drop link and would the pipe feed in from the opposite side? So after said breakfast roll and a cup of tea, I had the pipe installed quickly.

Hope this helps,

Best regards,

Phil C.

A cup of tea always helps, Phil!

It's really not so bad with the bumper off and the headlight removed. Access is tres dificile without doing that bit.

I worked the new pipe downwards, from the engine bay. I remember your comment, when we last met up, about having to bend it to get it in; I suspect it did get slightly reshaped at some stage of my version of the operation, but not to any great degree (or "degrees" )...
321dave   
Sat Apr 29 2017, 10:08am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 "Weary, I took a break and while rambling to the local shop for a breakfast roll".
I thought they were banned Phil by the health brigade after the recession started! I can't get anything fixed without at least a cup of tea! Or two! Keep up the great posting guys, makes for great reading.
cruiserphil   
Sun Apr 30 2017, 08:17pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 E3 Steve,

When we met, I had completed the job on the 06 car. However when it came to the 07 car I had forgotten how I had done it. Then, as described, I worked out a revised way which made installation possible without distorting the pipe and was much simpler!!!

Best regards,

Phil C.
cruiserphil   
Sun Apr 30 2017, 08:27pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 321Dave,

Moderation is the key. There's no harm in the odd breakfast roll!!!

- Click Here -

Best regards,

Phil C.
321dave   
Sun Apr 30 2017, 08:33pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Lol.. very good Phil
 

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