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Advice on battery condition and use of a "smart" trickle chargers please? |
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robingc33
 
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   Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex |
I'm thinking about trying a trickle charger on my 2007, 55k miles, 2.7L C6, (fitted with a 4yr old "proper" Citroen 95Ah battery) and would appreciate any advice from anyone who's tried one - e.g. the Ctek MXS 5.0 type which can apparently be left connected without any battery disconnection (and so conveniently avoiding altogether the potential pitfalls of boot locking/window breakage, etc. if one forgets to do things in the right sequence). Maybe as a combination of the battery's age, an annual mileage of only 1k-2k and a C6's natural hunger for power even when parked, my battery is starting to be a bit unconvincing with a measured voltage a few days ago of 12.2V and a recent tendency to only start on the third turn of the key. When the engine is running it measures around 14.3V which hopefully suggests the alternator is OK? When I ran Diagbox yesterday it (unsuprisingly) came up with several "low voltage errors" affecting various parts of it's anatomy - although driving fine once started. Last night I took it for an 80mile, 1.5hr drive at a pretty constant 70mph/2000rpm (with headlights) and it drove beautifully but I was very dissappointed to find this morning that the battery voltage now only measures 11.8V whereas I'd have expected it to be something more "normal" around 12.7V? after that!  But also, thinking aloud, I've had the car around 18 months and prior to that it was probably sitting around at a dealers for many months and prior to that I think it was a "London" car, so maybe only did short trips round town too - so maybe the battery is just giving up after this combination of treatment? But is the battery beyond help? - and would a trickle charge like this help now - or with my future usage and a new battery. Any thoughts/experience greatfully received, Thanks, Robin |
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gmerry
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  Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi, I have a CTEK MXS5.0 and it was pretty handy / essential when the car stood unused for several months. It has a battery conditioning function which is supposed to reverse sulfation to a degree. Having said that, if the battery has stood discharged for a long period, or suffered several bouts of complete discharge, it will be damaged beyond recovery and will need to be replaced sooner or later. regards |
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Sevenman
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 Member No: #2241
Location: Herefordshire |
I have one of these on my TVR that can go for a couple of months without being driven. Can be left connected permanently and ensures it always starts energetically. I have also used one on the C6 when it has been left for a while. I would recommend it. If it still has problems holding charge it may be time for a new battery. If it starts slowly could be starter motor or battery. I changed both a couple of years ago. |
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robingc33
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Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex |
Thanks for the responses; I think I'll get one of these chargers for the longer term, meantime get my battery checked properly to see if it's worth keeping/restoring. Robin |
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PHaTGRoB
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Member No: #994
Location: North Wales |
I've also got an MXS 5.0, after it was recommended by a biker colleague, and initially used it to resurrect the C6's tired 8-year old battery, giving me a whole year of life before it finally gave up. The CTEK is a great piece of kit though and also tells you about the starting and charging quality of the starter and alternator. Whenever the C6 goes into the garage though, they always mention low voltage, which I ignore, especially after fitting a brand new 100Ah Varta 019 battery! | ||
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robingc33
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Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex |
Postscript: I've just got and fitted a Varta Silverline 100Ah H3-style replacement battery which I got online for £103 all-in. The difference with this new battery is spectacular; the starter has never turned so fast in the year I've had it! Meantime I've taken the plunge and ordered the CTEK MXS 5.0 with the intention of using it on the new battery as/when needed, but also attempting to renovate the "deceased" original battery if possible in case it proves useable as an occasional spare. Thanks again for the advice. Robin PPS: Now I've just got to get that persistently weeping flexible hydraulic pipe fixed in the lower front off-side inner wing area. Never a dull (and inexpensive?) moment with a C6 
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
robingc33 wrote ... I fitted a Varta Silver 100 to the 2.7, just over three years ago. Five year warranty! It's been excellent. I have a trade account with Barden UK; I recommend them highly, and their online purchasing is, AFAIK, first class (they'll deliver daily to me, in Gosport, though).Postscript: I've just got and fitted a Varta Silverline 100Ah H3-style replacement battery which I got online for £103 all-in. The difference with this new battery is spectacular; the starter has never turned so fast in the year I've had it! Meantime I've taken the plunge and ordered the CTEK MXS 5.0 with the intention of using it on the new battery as/when needed, but also attempting to renovate the "deceased" original battery if possible in case it proves useable as an occasional spare. The Ctek chargers are also great devices. robingc33 wrote ... Are you referring to the very narrow hardpipe with the 30cm flexi (within the Nylon sleeve) around the midpoint? Part nr 5270VN; it's about £120; I replaced mine a fortnight ago, and it takes a couple of hours:PPS: Now I've just got to get that persistently weeping flexible hydraulic pipe fixed in the lower front off-side inner wing area. Never a dull (and inexpensive?) moment with a C6 Suspension on highest setting - Bumper off (after removing both front wing forward liners, incorporating the LDWS sensors, and the forward centre undertray section) R/h headlamp out Turn the steering hardover to the right REMOVE THE VERTICAL BRACE (two bolts, 16mm & 18mm heads) fwd/inboard of the comfort sphere Disconnect the three little connectors from the w/screen wash reservoir (they're colour coded) under the sphere Remove the 10mm hex-head machine screw (bolts have shanks; machine screws are fully threaded!) from the bottom of the w/screen wash reservoir Lift-and-pivot the reservoir on the upper Pop-rivet and support it with ty-wraps Suspension on lowest setting - Disconnect the main power and the single-wire connector from the LDS pump motor Manipulate coolant/hydraulic hoses away from the work area and do the same ty-wrap thing Depressurise the LDS system (not certain if this is essential, but I did it anyway) Notes: There are two P-clip-type retainers under 10mm nuts (a ratchet spaniard is helpful) along the pipe; these support the rigid sections before and after the flexi crimps. These are best removed before dropping the suspension. One is alongside the LDS pump body, the other is close to from where the brace is removed, ahead of the comfort sphere. Removal of the comfort sphere isn't necessary. The unions are 11mm A/F 'nuts'. Ensure that the tiny Green O-rings and the white spacers come out with the pipe! You'll need a small, strong light to show you the way. |
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robingc33
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Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex |
Thanks, and yes I am That's excellent info Steve, very useful and much appreciated. Robin |
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