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Spare Wheel Kit |
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keithc |
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Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare |
h. Decided it was about time I checked my spare wheel and kit since I've not looked at them since I bought the car! Spare wheel has a new tyre at the correct pressure but the kit looks like a lot of stuff is missing. Has anyone a photo of the complete kit or a list of the items so I can order/get what's missing? Not sure if the warning triangle is correct or if it came with the car as it doesn't seem to fit anywhere and is broken anyways. |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
In the UK at least, I don't think a warning triangle was included. You probably need a towing eye or two to complete the kit (M12 thread). regards |
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Dan595 |
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Joined: Nov 26 2010
Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
I can't see the little allen key in the picture - not that I know what it is for anyway (manually retracting sunroof maybe?). Also the towing eye. Warning triangle not included in UK as gmerry says. How about the security key for the alloys? From memory it lives in this kit. May have self-destructed some time ago, if so hopefully the security wheel bolts have been changed. In normal use the kit looks a bit empty as the detachable towbar can be stowed in there as well (just). keithc I have a spare kit somewhere, I'll let you know if I find it. |
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keithc |
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Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare |
Thankfully I've no security nuts to worry about. Got caught out on a Laguna and Focus in the past and not worth the hassle when it goes wrong. I am missing the towing eye and also since I've a sunroof on mine it might be handy to have the allen key. If you do come across your spare kit do let me know Dan. |
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Keith, here's some part numbers:- 7212SQ "Ring" or towing eye 8742L6 Sunroof crank handle 671809 Spare Wheel Wedge (folding chock) 113144 2 warning triangles 671714 hubcap remover (I think you have this) regards Also, get yourself an aftermarket jack, as strong as you can find as the Citroen one is too weak. The towing eye should be easy to source eg - Click Here - as common across Citroen range. I had to use mine when the thermostat blew apart at the MOT test necessitating a lift home on the garage transporter. Without the towing eye, its virtually impossible to get the car up a ramp. |
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C6Chester |
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Joined: Aug 10 2015
Member No: #2287
Location: Chester |
Definitely agree with gmerry about changing the jack, the Citroen one can't handle the C6 at all - my first attempt at using it saw my C6 literally slipping off it, luckily without any damage. | ||
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bottezela |
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Joined: Jun 29 2016
Member No: #2688
Location: Belluno |
Keith, here is a photo from the C6 handbook, so you can control what is missing from your spare wheel kit.Regards |
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e3steve |
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Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
The jack works ok, as long as the car is on spirit-level-flat ground and one uses the chock. The main issue is that the chocolate jacking points seem to have been an afterthought; they must be completely perpendicular to the car body -- i.e.: not bent at all -- and in perfect order (like, factory new). Never let a tyre fitter or a garage jack up a corner - 1. Without raising the suspension to its highest setting 2. Without undoing the LDS reservoir cap half a turn 3. Without placing a vee block on the jack's pad Same goes for a two-post lifting 'ramp'. I bought a couple of rubber vee blocks to use with my jolley track and axle stands, but you can make them from hardwood blocks: you need them about 90mm square and 60mm thick, then cut a narrow vee across the centreline, at right-angles to the grain, 6mm across at the open end, 3mm at the narrowest point and 20mm deep. They only work with the four pads on a free-wheel lift or with a (decent!) trolley jack. |
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321dave |
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Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Thats great advice Steve, my poor cars jacking points are all but damaged by previous owners. It makes jacking difficult. i've always wondered if they can be straightened or repaired again. I guess it would be difficult. | ||
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gmerry |
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Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Steve, further to your post, I make a point of only lifting the entire front or entire rear, never a corner. That way there is minimal lateral strain on the jacking points. regards |
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vaho |
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Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn |
One of my cars jacking points was also bent. Fortunately outwards so I could hammer it from the outside. I started to bend it back from the center hole (insert the proper iron bar and just bend) and continued with big hammer and eventually I got it almost perfectly straight, the metal is very thick as it suppose to be of course. Then I covered the point with several layers of protective matt black paint. I have jacked up the car several times since then and had no problems. | ||
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321dave |
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Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi Vaho, that might work on two of the jacking points. For some reason the front left point is badly compressed possibly from having the car jacked on the folded metal. I will have another look and post some photos. |
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e3steve |
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Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
321dave wrote ... I had to straighten all of mine, Dave; more than once! For the initial recovery-from-totally-flattened I used a prybar, then a big hammer and a wooden block, endgrain-on. Finishing the job is achieved using an engineer's hammer to dress the metal, and a heavier lump-hammer acting as a dolly on the other side of the plate and to absorb the impact of the blows.
Thats great advice Steve, my poor cars jacking points are all but damaged by previous owners. It makes jacking difficult. i've always wondered if they can be straightened or repaired again. I guess it would be difficult. |
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e3steve |
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Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
gmerry wrote ... Yes, I remember you posting about your beam contraption; absolutely brilliant idea!Hi Steve, further to your post, I make a point of only lifting the entire front or entire rear, never a corner. That way there is minimal lateral strain on the jacking points. regards |
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321dave |
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Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
That's great Steve, I'll give that a try as well. I like your description of the "chocolate jacking points". That's not far of the strength of the metal. Hopefully I can restore them. I bought the rubber puck that should come as standard with trolley jacks to protect these soft jacking points. | ||
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