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Dismantling and rebuilding a headlamp |
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MikeH
 
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   Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk |
I had to strip and rebuild a headlight recently and took several photos in case they might be of use to other C6 owners. It's not as difficult a task as it might seem and I'd be glad to pass on any advice or photos if anyone has an interest. I've attached a few photos to this thread, but there are many more.     |
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onthecut
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 Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
I look with increasing affection at the simple, 7" round lamps on our works Landy !  So the reflector section is all contained behind the lens and the dip is effected by a shield popping up ? Mike. |
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furriegurrie
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 Member No: #2448
Location: Roosendaal |
When you've taken it apart this far does it give you good access to clean out the lamp housing from dust, bugs etc? | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi MikeH, great photos and many thanks for sharing these with all. It's very interesting, as my ballast is popping up on Diagbox from time to time, but as far as I can detect the headlights are working perfectly at the moment. All turning and auto levelling seems fine. But, that could all change very soon. I have a few questions if you didn't mind regarding the headlights. 1. Did you disassemble the headlight with a plastic welding kit? Or some type of special tool(s)? 2. I'm guessing here a bit, but maybe moisture is now starting to make its way into the ballast unit under one of my headlights, but is still only detected as a intermittent fault at the moment, but that would change soon if it starts throwing up a permeant fault. 3. How did all the motors and wiring look to you inside, would you say they are in all fine and would last another while? Many thanks again for the photos. |
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Norman
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  Member No: #364
Location: Huddersfield and Torremolinos Spain |
Hi did you fine the lever which changes the headlight from rhd to lhd as reported by another member of the forum? | ||
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MikeH
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Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk |
Let me answer all posts in one, starting from the top: A. So the reflector section is all contained behind the lens and the dip is effected by a shield popping up ? Yes, it's a very simple mechanism. The metal flap that I am holding against its spring in photo 3 is activated by the solonoid below. Default is closed (picture 2) producing a dipped beam. B. When you've taken it apart this far does it give you good access to clean out the lamp housing from dust, bugs etc? It does, but I would suggest you learn to live with the dust and the bugs. Unless you like adventures .... C) 3. Did you disassemble the headlight with a plastic welding kit? Or some type of special tool(s)? No, the lens is simply held in place by a strip of dum-dum in a channel with a few additional securing clips. The dum-dum softens with a little heat but to be honest, I split it cold using a couple of metal spatulas to spread the load and a large screwdriver in between to act as a lever. If you are slow and patient, the lens gradually peels away from the housing. I tried to buy new dum-dum to refit but was let down by the supplier. In the end, I used the old dum-dum and warmed it up (which was fine) and then ran a strip of silicone around the join for additional peace of mind. It's a well made unit and the fit is secure and snug. Everyone I spoke to suggested using silicon instead of dum-dum and I would add a word of warning ... if you do this, you will never be able to split the light again. 2. I'm guessing here a bit, but maybe moisture is now starting to make its way into the ballast unit under one of my headlights, but is still only detected as a intermittent fault at the moment, but that would change soon if it starts throwing up a permeant fault. Moisture had got into my ballast unit (nearside) and this corroded the circuit board. I thought it was a bulb but the intermittent fault remained after I replaced it. There is a good supplier of brand new ballast units in Germany and from bitter experience, I personally would advise against the cheaper reconditioned units on sale. I replaced it and now the lamp works fine. The reason I split the lamp was because a dealer wound the vertical adjuster off its threads and over a stop/clutch mechanism. There is only one way to fix this and it means taking the vertical adjuster to pieces and this can only be done once it's out of the cage assembly. 3. How did all the motors and wiring look to you inside, would you say they are in all fine and would last another while? The light is well made and the motor and wiring quality is high. They should all outlast the car, but you can buy new stepped-motors from the continent/e-Bay. They are shared with BMWs. There are more wires than you could imagine in the lamp and I took quite a few photos for another member to show where they all ran. On a final note, there is one tricky exercise in removing the cage from the housing and this requires a tin can, wire snips, a pointy knife, a pair of pliers and the patience of Job. If anyone else goes this far, I'd be happy to talk it over. The |
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MikeH
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Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk |
Hi did you fine the lever which changes the headlight from rhd to lhd as reported by another member of the forum? I didn't look to be honest but I suspect that if you pushed the little tab where my finger is in photo 3, this would pivot the plate with 'LV' stamped on it up, changing the profile of the shutter and blocking off some of the light pattern. I guess you could achieve the same end by lifting the tab on the left of the plate (in the picture) and I suspect that the little inspection hole at the side of the light might be there for this purpose as well as for changing one of the small internal bulbs. Note though, that the shutter has a relatively flat top profile and so perhaps you don't generally need to adjust the lamp for Continental versus UK driving. |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Many thanks for that great description Mike. Very helpful. | ||
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
MikeH wrote ... I regularly drive my C6 in France, where other road users would harshly complain via the use of their hi-beam if they were bothered by incorrectly-set oncoming lights. I've never been flashed!
Hi did you fine the lever which changes the headlight from rhd to lhd as reported by another member of the forum? I didn't look to be honest but I suspect that if you pushed the little tab where my finger is in photo 3, this would pivot the plate with 'LV' stamped on it up, changing the profile of the shutter and blocking off some of the light pattern. I guess you could achieve the same end by lifting the tab on the left of the plate (in the picture) and I suspect that the little inspection hole at the side of the light might be there for this purpose as well as for changing one of the small internal bulbs. Note though, that the shutter has a relatively flat top profile and so perhaps you don't generally need to adjust the lamp for Continental versus UK driving. |
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travlician
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 Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
I need to open up this unit soon too because my high-beam is not working on one side. The connector that goes into the fixture does have the signal for high beam. Really need to take of the front bumper to do this? | ||
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MikeH
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Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk |
I can't think that it would be easy without completely removing the bumper although perhaps it is possible. Once you've stripped the front of the car once, it becomes easy and because I had to do it a few times to check function, get an MOT etc, I was able to remove the lower guards, bumper and lamps from scratch in about 20 minutes by the end. The first time is the hard one because all the fixing screws will be seized and it requires a lot of patience to get these moving without causing damage to the plastic bodywork. Perhaps someone else can advise on whether or not there is a short cut. | ||
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eduardomaio
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 Member No: #869
Location: Lisbon |
You can remove the headlamp without totally removing the front bumper. Remove the screws in the wheel wells and at the bottom on the mud guard that is connected to the front bumper. Take out the 3 (i think) screws holding the side of the bumper and the plastic bits that go on top of the bumper. It's easier to explain with some pictures. I have done this with the suspension of the highest level, without a jack. Useful if you don't have a mate to lend you a hand to help put the bumper in place again. |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
travlician wrote ... My left-side hi beam drops down to dipped beam when turning to port, so I suspect a poorly-seated connector or a broken wire.I need to open up this unit soon too because my high-beam is not working on one side. The connector that goes into the fixture does have the signal for high beam. Really need to take of the front bumper to do this? I wouldn't want to perform headlight removal without having the front bumper off. Why do half a job? |
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