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Jacking up the C6 |
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furriegurrie
 
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  Member No: #2448
Location: Roosendaal |
In the relevant Technical Document also found on this website the instruction is to place a trolley jack under the centre pillar with the use of an elastomer shim. Has anybody actually used this method? It seems to me that this will crack/wreck the plastic covers and possibly deform the metal there. It does not seem obvious to use a jack at that place of the car. It would be nice to be able to jack up the car in the way, but I'm reluctant to try as I don't want to break anything.... |
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gmerry
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  Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Furriegurrie, no I would never try and jack up the C6 at that location. As well as the issues you have identified, there is a further problem in that if you are trying to raise a front corner or an entire side of the car, the centre pillar is BEHIND the centre of gravity. In addition, a trolley jack is not a suitable lifting device because unless the wheels of the trolley jack are on a very hard, smooth and level surface, this kind of jack introduces a sideways load on to the lifting lug and will bend it very quickly. regards |
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cruiserphil
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  Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Hello Furrie, I have done it this way several times. You must position the block for the jack towards the back of the plastic, not the front. I check that there is no deformation of the plastic as I take the weight with the jack. It does seem a strange way to lift the car but there is no distortion as I've checked the doors opening and shutting. Just take care! Best regards, Phil C. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Phil, you're braver than me! | ||
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furriegurrie
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Member No: #2448
Location: Roosendaal |
I might give it a try. Seems ideal to be able to jack up the C6 in the middle. I have a very nice trolley jack that also moves well under load. So when lifting it will roll forward so there is less force sideways. But jacking with this under the jacking point is still risky as they aren't very strong. The Xm I used to jack under the subframe, but this does not seem possible with the C6... | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Phil, when you jack under the "B" pillar, are you jacking one side or both? If both, do you counterweight the car by putting a proverbial bag of cement in the boot?. The reason I ask is because when I jack up the car on the front two jacking pints (lifting the entire nose, I find that there is very little load left on the rear wheels: presumably the fore and aft centre of gravity is not very far behind these jacking points (depending on whether fuel tank is full or not with its 60off kg load). In fact I use a beam across the two from jacking points with a low jack bolted to each end and if I'm not even with the lifting, the car will "[%*^#@!]" a rear wheel very easily. regards G |
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
I lift at the front points and that will lift the rear wheels as well (just a little) Very practical when changing to and from winter tyres. My earlier big Citroens did the same, if I remember right. Maybe more that 60/40 weight distribution is the reason. | ||
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furriegurrie
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Member No: #2448
Location: Roosendaal |
What do you use for jacking the car up? I'm worried about bending the jacking points. They seem as weak as on the Xm.... | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
In fact I use a beam across the two from jacking points with a low jack bolted to each end and if I'm not even with the lifting, the car will "[%*^#@!]" a rear wheel very easily. Hi, seems political correctness rules. I used a word spelt cee ooo cee kay which as the oxford dictionary will vouch - Click Here - can be used to describe part of the act of firing a gun or partial raising of a part which is an accurate description of what happens to one of the rear wheels. Anyhow, the word has been replaced by symbols as though it was a profanity????? regards G What do you use for jacking the car up? I'm worried about bending the jacking points. They seem as weak as on the Xm.... The best would be a two post lift. Otherwise a nice short 10tonne bottle jack with a nice big groove sawed into the top works quite well. If I'm getting under, my steel beam fits under the car and has two lugs that fit the jacking points. Each side is raised up roughly together. It also means I can but a safety prop under the beam directly in line with jacking points so I'm not under a car "on a jack". |
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
G, Apologies for late reply. Indeed I was surprised at you using a profanity! Not like Scottish people at all |
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cruiserphil
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Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
G, the rest of my post appears to be missing! To continue, I only jack one side. I don't do it often. Recently I used this technique to lift the front wheel of a fellow forum member's car as all his jacking points are crushed! I attempted both sides once. But with the first side lifted and blocked at the jacking points, lifting the second side caused the front to continually tip towards the ground! As you point out, when using this technique, the rear of the car has to lift considerably before the front leaves the floor! Best regards, Phil C. |
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