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Coolant outlet housing failure
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321dave   
Sat Jun 04 2016, 05:44pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi Frank,
Well done. It's not a nice job at all, the access is pretty limited and 10hours isn't bad for your first attempt. But that inlet pipe is one of the biggest engine weaknesses. You can rest easy now I n knowing it's a got a new one fitted. And you know that because you put it in yourself!
gmerry   
Tue Jun 07 2016, 03:38pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi 321Dave, I had a very quick look for the "tutorial" on how to access and change the inlet coolant tank. Didn't find it so wondering if you could be kind enough to provide a link to Phil's? plus add any pointers of your own.

I guess whilst in that area, its a good idea to replace the alternator pully: mine is the original.

Regards
G
Jarecki   
Tue Jun 07 2016, 09:49pm
Joined: Feb 19 2015
Member No: #2069
Location: Poznan
 Hi,
I also had this inlet leaking.
Thanks for tutorial - very helpful, but when you dismantle the aircon pump out - no even need to unscrew the wheel an mudcover!
Just has repaired the inlet, (with friends from TS Garrage) additionally changed aux belt, coolant circuit flusch (3 times) aircon liquid & gas renewed too. After the inspection of the inlet after remove, we were totaly confused of the "ingenieurs" who invented it... It is made from chineese cheese and glued by chewing gum, each screw keeps another part sic! etc... I'll take a photo, you'll will see... it is hard to belive
My suggestion is to do this replacement each 150kkm and the termostat body inlet housing too.
cruiserphil   
Tue Jun 07 2016, 10:03pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Hello G,

It's in the technical documents - Click Here - - C6 2.7HDi coolant tank replacement.

Best regards,
Phil C.
321dave   
Wed Jun 08 2016, 07:47am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Hi G,
I see Phil nipped in and kindly gave the link you needed. I wouldn't attempt the repair again unless I had a pair of extended hose clamp pliers to help undo the deeply recessed durite hoses connected to the inlet pipes. Access is hard but just about do able, but the clips were particularly difficult for me. I didn't have the special pliers I think would help with the remote location you'll be working in. Will be getting one for that job again. I also bought a new hose as it was difficult to source the hose clip because they are big clips. But if you break the clip (I did putting to much force trying to slide it back). The clip on the connection to the Radiator on top is the same size. Just pop that one on below and put a jubilee clip on the top one until you get a chance to change that and when you finally source the clip you can easily change that. Anyway just a few tips to help. I'm sure Phil has a few other ones.

Best regards
Dave
cruiserphil   
Wed Jun 08 2016, 08:33am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Good point 321Dave,

G,

I had this when I was doing the job - Click Here -

Best regards,

Phil C.
321dave   
Wed Jun 08 2016, 11:23am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 Thats the one Phil. I just remembered to order one for myself last night. Extremely handy in a tight spot. Best buy a good quality one some of the cheaper ones apparently break the cable very easily!

best regards
Dave
Cisco   
Wed Jun 08 2016, 07:55pm
Joined: Sep 10 2013
Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow
 I did this slightly differently. I had no problem getting the hose clamps of the connections to the inlet tank with standard tools, however I could not get the hoses off the inlet connections without risk of damage as they cannot be rotated.

So after I had removed the inlet from the block I cut through the larger of the two inlet pipes with a dremmel. After this it was simple to rotate/remove the hoses cleanly. You need to be careful not to damage the hoses with the dremmel though.

Also when re-installing the inlet tank you need to be verry careful to keep it square to the block to avoid trapping the seal. Easiest way is to turn each screw 1/2 turn each in rotation. I had already installed the hoses/clamps by this time.

ATB Frank
Cisco   
Sat Jun 11 2016, 03:01pm
Joined: Sep 10 2013
Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow
Jarecki wrote ...

Hi,
I also had this inlet leaking.
Thanks for tutorial - very helpful, but when you dismantle the aircon pump out - no even need to unscrew the wheel an mudcover!
Just has repaired the inlet, (with friends from TS Garrage) additionally changed aux belt, coolant circuit flusch (3 times) aircon liquid & gas renewed too. After the inspection of the inlet after remove, we were totaly confused of the "ingenieurs" who invented it... It is made from chineese cheese and glued by chewing gum, each screw keeps another part sic! etc... I'll take a photo, you'll will see... it is hard to belive
My suggestion is to do this replacement each 150kkm and the termostat body inlet housing too.


Hi Jarecki,

Was there a reason that you flushed the cooling circuit three times?

Did you get anything in the expansion tank after refilling/running?

ATB Frank
Jarecki   
Sun Jun 12 2016, 08:09am
Joined: Feb 19 2015
Member No: #2069
Location: Poznan
 Hi Cisco,
I just flushed the cooling circuit, because I thought, (after top up by water) I have to replace the coolant. Additionally appeared the liquid drained was very dirt and full of "leafs" of rust, thats why I flushed it three times by water and 2 times I used LiguiMolly flush - now is brand new .
In the expansion tank was just dirt brown-red liquid.

I think to buy the tank sensor equipped from peugeot 607 or simmilar, because there is nothing which should inform a driver the coolant leakage or the level in the expansion tank.
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