Login   
C6owners :: Forums :: C6 Support :: Car Care and Maintenance Tips

Corrosion on oil sump pan, crossmembers, pipes etc.

Home   Forum Rules    Forum Help  Conversion Tools
   
Please Register to enjoy additional Member Benefits
Author Post
speedfix   
Wed Oct 29 2014, 05:19pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
"there should be a little clearance allowing for the sump to dry, i.e not be constantly wet."

If the car is used in the wet and on short journeys the sumps will not dry out.
Damp air and winter salt with condensation with a cold sump will be a problem.

Engine is oil cooled and water heated on short runs IMO.

The under tray should have clearance with the sump or rubbing will be a problem with corrosion.
321dave   
Thu Oct 30 2014, 05:13am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi guys,
I realised also (forgot to mention) the tray was slightly open with the front (smaller tray under radiator) missing about 5 screws where they meet up (had C6 undertray fastening kit, and replaced 5 new screws) as well, so the previous garage work wasn't great. I'm seeing a lot of problems that had been left get worse by previous owners, I'm the third owner now! But I'm determined not to let this car go! Will go again at cleaning this up at the weekend.

Kind regards
321dave
e3steve   
Sat Nov 01 2014, 12:55pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
321dave wrote ...

Image of sump is upside down. But the corrosion is clearly visible. What would the best course of action be here? It's not weeping oil yet?

The sump was also covered from below, so not sure why its so bad.




Eeeewwww... Dave, you need some minor oil leaks!

If it were mine looking like that then I'd treat the corrosion with an inhibitor and leave it at that. Years ago such inhibitors were available with a name like 'Naval Jelly'. Most bodyshop suppliers or motor goodies shops should have something similar.

It turns black when brushed onto corrosion, converting same back to de-oxidised metal by purging the oxygen content.
321dave   
Sat Nov 01 2014, 01:26pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Thanks for the tip Steve, my previous 09 C5 which I've had from new and was maintained (serviced) by myself had a sump like a brand new car after 5 years! God only knows how this C6 was treated or mistreated by the previous owners. Considering the sump is only probably 2 years older than my old X7 model C5 the condition is seriously bad for me. I wouldn't be happy until I replaced it with a new sump. I found other points of amazing corrosion in the car as well, but I'll start a new tread for those amazing images. Many thanks for your many forum posts! They are a great help for a Citroen person starting to turn around a slightly run down C6, but hopefully by the time (5 years later) I'm finished it will be like it just left the factory.

Kind regards
321dave
C6Dave   
Sat Nov 01 2014, 03:59pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
321dave wrote ...

Many thanks for your many forum posts! They are a great help for a Citroen person starting to turn around a slightly run down C6, but hopefully by the time (5 years later) I'm finished it will be like it just left the factory.

It's only recently they developed a process for the Forth Bridge whereby they no longer finish painting at one end and start again at the other.

I can foresee your C6 being an ongoing restoration unless it's cosseted in a heated garage and never used in the wet
Website
321dave   
Sat Nov 01 2014, 06:11pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
C6Dave wrote ...
It's only recently they developed a process for the Forth Bridge whereby they no longer finish painting at one end and start again at the other.

I can foresee your C6 being an ongoing restoration unless it's cosseted in a heated garage and never used in the wet


Hi C6dave, I have a feeling your most probably right about that!

But in the mean time (between restoration) the car is already providing plenty of Citroëns famous attributes, space and comfort. Maybe not quite at DS levels of comfort, but it's not doing much wrong on that front. But the rust is becoming a issue in itself now!!
gmerry   
Mon Nov 03 2014, 09:06am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Dave, the "process" they developed for the Forth Road Bridge is EXACTLY the same as the one I prescribed when this topic was first posted. The key is in the preparation and the application of the MIO high build intermediate layer. No magic process, just good preparation and a high quality paint system.

Regards
G
321dave   
Mon Nov 03 2014, 10:46am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
gmerry wrote ...

Hi Dave, the "process" they developed for the Forth Road Bridge is EXACTLY the same as the one I prescribed when this topic was first posted. The key is in the preparation and the application of the MIO high build intermediate layer. No magic process, just good preparation and a high quality paint system.

Regards
G


Hi G,
will start now to look towards fixing these rust problems. Some rust treatments to start with and replacement parts (oil sump) and a few screw fixing which have also corroded badly even under the bonnet. It seems the C6 has it main corrosion issues on the front?

Kind regards
321dave
gmerry   
Mon Nov 03 2014, 11:35am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Dave, the worst corrosion I found on my C6 (which I attribute to Scottish grit and saut) was around the rear centre spheres and the attached piping. I ended up replacing both rear centre spheres because of the depth of pitting. Mostly it's hidden by the plastic cup shaped deflector thingy, this needs to be removed to get a good look.

Regards
G
C6Dave   
Tue Nov 04 2014, 07:49am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Why not get a new one and coat it before fitting?

0301Q9 Engine Oil Sump 2.7 HDi - £131.39 inc Vat

030457 Sump Gasket - £20.60 inc Vat

That's at UK Main dealer retail prices..........
Website
321dave   
Tue Nov 04 2014, 12:46pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
gmerry wrote ...

Hi Dave, the worst corrosion I found on my C6 (which I attribute to Scottish grit and saut) was around the rear centre spheres and the attached piping. I ended up replacing both rear centre spheres because of the depth of pitting. Mostly it's hidden by the plastic cup shaped deflector thingy, this needs to be removed to get a good look.

Regards
G


Hi G,
i will take another look around the rear of the C6 this weekend. Thanks for that tip!
I most likely will have the same issues. I have more images of similiar corrosion on going with the front cross member directly behind the front number place holder.(apologies Dave if this should be on a differant tread)

kind regards
321dave


321dave   
Tue Nov 04 2014, 12:58pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
C6Dave wrote ...

Why not get a new one and coat it before fitting?

0301Q9 Engine Oil Sump 2.7 HDi - £131.39 inc Vat

030457 Sump Gasket - £20.60 inc Vat

That's at UK Main dealer retail prices..........


Hi C6dave,
thank you for the prices and details. I was thinking exactly the same thing, and as with the corroded coolant pipe previous discussed, it appears the paint finishes used on the parts are not strong enough for as G said earlier Scottish winters or indeed winter conditions here in Ireland. Particularly over the previous few winters when the weather was quite bad here. I will keep photos coming of the corrosion if people find it useful.

kind regards
321dave
C6Dave   
Tue Nov 04 2014, 03:11pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Might be an idea to keep the main corrosion areas together so I have changed the thread title.....
Website
Go to page   <<       

Jump:     Back to top

User Colour Key:
Head Administrator, Administrator, C6 owner, Technical Expert, C6 Premier Discount Club