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Rust |
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gmerry
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi all, where I live, lots of 8 year old Mercs with bubbling rust spots: not just a Citroen problem. Regards G |
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Rust specialist companies and independent organisations tell tales of a new rustwave in cars, problems of the industry. Mercedes among the worst (??)or only the brand with the most disappointed customers(??). My impression is that the C6 is basically good, BUT have lot of details that need attention to keep rust away (spoiler hinges, small parts in doors, parts of the wheel and suspension system, the engine cooling pipe, lots of screws, nuts and washers etc). Small things they did not think of (??) I will periodically walk around the car and check (also the underside) with my spray cans... Maybe we can make a anti-rust guide ?? The first point will of course be to pay for a full extra independent antirust treatment after getting the car. | ||||
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Just in from changing air filter. Found too much surface rust and corrosion in the engine compartment. Tubes, screws, links ; all kind of parts. Sprayed with standard universal spray. Did not like it. Is too much rain and snow and... coming in while driving ??? (Car is 2010, use garage and use the grille blind in winter) | ||||
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gmerry
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Tjensen. EU legislation has severely curtailed plating options for fasteners (anti-corrosion), some of the newer alternatives just don't work!. Try removing the threaded mudguard liner fasteners, heads will be gone and threads seized up. Its things like this that make a simple job into a headache. Agree with you on the Mercedes. In Scotland, many 5-6 year old Mercs have rust around the wheel arch lips, just like a 1970s car. Fords are rubbish by the time they are 10 years old. Citroen body stuff is very good. Regards G |
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mark28
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![]() ![]() Member No: #102
Location: Hampshire |
Mercedes Benz followed a disastrous plan in term of paint until the decoupling with Chrysler. Paint is much better now. The other point with a merc is that as long as it as been serviced they will always honour the anti corrosion warranty . | ||||
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Rettopian
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![]() ![]() Member No: #1195
Location: Wiltshire |
Forgive the pun - but didn't the rot set into MB with the W210 model that replaced the W124? From memory this was the car they developed partly in a 'water' rather than wind tunnel but more importantly, it was the first model where the accountants had the whip hand over the engineers. The quality of the current models - well the larger models - seems to be pretty good though. |
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
(In Norway there are still issues with MB and rust, but of course it is a bit like software: the latest edition always have "solved" the problems. And it might be true....) What can I use to protect bits and pieces around the engine from rust ? Tectyl/Waxoil can melt and burn ? Paint is difficult to use etc ? I will not take tings apart, and it is "new" and clean inside |
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C6Dave
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Bilt Hamber 'Ferrosol' is good - Click Here - | ||||
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nickyg
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #100
Location: Tyrone |
Bilt hamber "dynax" would likely be even better for this purpose, though ferrosol is great for a plethora of applications. I think there are two versions now, a clear version, maybe. I've used "dynax UB", which is a brown colour. | ||||
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Thanks Dave and Nick ! Ferrsol is not usual in Norway, but I have seen it and will search. Basically this is a high quality universal spray, way above WD-40 and CRC ? (of the two the CRC is maybe the best and 6-66 is better than 5-56 in costal areas ?) | ||||
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C6Dave
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
'Dynax' is a better version of 'waxoyl' and what I used to protect all the internal cavities on the Traction after the re paint. It will be messy in the engine bay leaving a visible coating which is why Ferrosol is better BTW the link I gave is to Bilt Hamber web store where you can buy the product direct |
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Difficult and expensive to import Ferrosol to Norway. Maybe it has a different trade name here ? I found CRC SP 350 II, a product for protecting from corrosion during storage etc Penetrating and lubricating as well. I will use that and a traditional light "Waxoyl/Tectyl" type for things not directly attached to the engine. | ||||
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C6Dave
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
I would have thought that as it's widely used in the offshore oil industry, it would be available in Norway. | ||||
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Found in a Norwegian postorder shop and orderd 3 cans | ||||
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Tjensen
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
The Norwegian postorder company Kraemer /Gasolin have delivered BiltHamber Dynax and Ferrosol to competitive prices ! Recommended | ||||
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