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More odd problems... |
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ilimzn
 
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  Member No: #5418
Location: Zagreb |
Hello everyone... So here is the deal: Problem 1: While driving, every few minutes I get a 'suspension faulty' error (with 'SERVICE' lit up in the dash and HUD), and the suspension turns very hard. However, the condition usually lasts less than a minute and the suspension returns to normal and the SERVICE light goes out. I have seen references to the steering wheel angle sensor needing calibration, and in that case the headlights don't turn in a curve, but mine do. I have not been able to establish any correlation between steering angle and the error appearing. Otherwise the suspension works fine, the ride height seems correct, the height settings work fine... Problem 2: When the car is not used for a while (few days to a week) it loses remote central locking, it will not react to the keyfob. However, it can be re-programmed (standard holding fob button after giving it contact) and then will work... until it's not used again for a few days. Keyfob battery is good (renewed) Any ideas would be appreciated... |
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RichardKC6
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 Member No: #49
Location: Derbyshire |
Have you got a decent 100Ah S3/019 battery in it? The remote issue definitely points to a car battery not good enough fault, and oddly enough with the suspension pump being one of the biggest drains on the car, a weak-but-almost-okay battery will struggle. I had a new 95Ah Halfords calcium in mine, but had things like headlights going offline - swapped it for a proper Yuasa 5000 silver 100Ah one and it's been a LOT better. I put the car on a CTek charger with a pigtail cable in the boot when I'm not using it, though it's actually good at shutting systems down. (The other common problem on all cars of this age is the alarm siren module - a lot of 2000s-2010s cars use these integrated boxes with a battery pack in, NiMh or NiCd, and it ages and leaks, corroding the boards and causing short circuits - I had a persistent issue with my PT Cruiser, found the alarm module, removed it, and no more problems of battery drain). |
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ilimzn
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Member No: #5418
Location: Zagreb |
The battery is a 2 months old Exide EA!000 100Ah premium battery, actually a recommendation from the forum. Apparently works just fine, the car starts immediately even after not being used a while. The FOB function gets lost within a few days to a week, there does not seem to be a pattern. It does not seem to get lost if I use it about every day (even without starting the car). I do not think the car has an alarm module (though I could be wrong)... will check. |
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M2dis
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 Member No: #3475
Location: Tartu |
I have had the 'suspension faulty' error happen to me, but not as you described, I had it from time to time at first, riding along and 'suspension faulty' popped off, did not clear within a minute, but in a longer time-span. Later I noticed that the pump did not kick in after unlocking and starting the car, it did raise the suspension after the engine had been working for a while tho. The pump electric motor was on its last legs for me, started with some odd 'suspension faulty' errors while driving and ended up not working at all |
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MGmike
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    Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
Mine was a broken dog bone on the NSF height sensor. Check all of them are intact and moving freely. | ||
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ilimzn
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Member No: #5418
Location: Zagreb |
M2dis wrote ... I have had the 'suspension faulty' error happen to me, but not as you described, I had it from time to time at first, riding along and 'suspension faulty' popped off, did not clear within a minute, but in a longer time-span. Later I noticed that the pump did not kick in after unlocking and starting the car, it did raise the suspension after the engine had been working for a while tho. The pump electric motor was on its last legs for me, started with some odd 'suspension faulty' errors while driving and ended up not working at all Did the suspension turn hard when the error appeared? |
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M2dis
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Member No: #3475
Location: Tartu |
ilimzn wrote ... M2dis wrote ... I have had the 'suspension faulty' error happen to me, but not as you described, I had it from time to time at first, riding along and 'suspension faulty' popped off, did not clear within a minute, but in a longer time-span. Later I noticed that the pump did not kick in after unlocking and starting the car, it did raise the suspension after the engine had been working for a while tho. The pump electric motor was on its last legs for me, started with some odd 'suspension faulty' errors while driving and ended up not working at all Did the suspension turn hard when the error appeared? It felt a bit stiffer, but wouldn't say that it got hard. |
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ilimzn
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Member No: #5418
Location: Zagreb |
So, here are some news - it took some time but I finally got a Diagbox and got the software to work. This revealed a few things: 1. The suspension problem seems to be a case of the steering wheel sensor not being calibrated. It shows 0 degrees when the steering wheel is centered one full turn to the right. Then it shows 0 deg angle which increases smoothly turning the wheel to the left, but jumps from 0 to 175 degrees when turning the wheel to the right. Have not done the calibration process yet... The headlights do turn correctly when driving, though. 2. The central locking not working is, it seems a set of electrical problems. Diagbox shows a number of control units not recognized as present: - Power steering not present - This is odd as it works and can even be tested for levels of power assistance. I am guessing that this is for a different vehicle configuration (2.2HDI has an electric power steering unit)? - Additional heating not present - OK, the car does not have that fitted - LEFThand dynamic headlight height adjuster not present. I also get a RIGHThand headlamp height adjustment communications error. Oddly, though, actuator test does move the headlights and so does the steering when driving. - Battery charge status unit not present - no idea? - Lane departure warning system not present - OK, not fitted to my car - Hands Free kit not present - OK, not fitted to my car - Telematic unit RTx or audio-navigation not present - OK I suppose, I only have the small central display - CD changer not present - OK, not fitted to my car - Anti theft alarm not present - OK I suppose, I don't think it is fitted? - Rear seats position memorisation not present - OK, car does not have launge pack - Headlamp beam corrector not present - ODD, the headlamps turn with the steering wheel... - High frequency receiver not present - Now this is on the right track as it shows a key in the icon and this is what should be receiving the keyfob signal. No reception, no central locking remote activation. This leads me to believe that it is an electrical problem, either a fuse or connector as the central locking did work when I got the car. One more clue might be that I also get an error when testing the central display: permanent power supply not present, and indeed the clock is reset every time I power on the vehicle. The keyfob receiver is surely one thing that requires permanent power so this might be connected and again points to an electrical problem. I have downloaded all the electrical diagrams I can, but it seems that the central display does not have a permanent power supply, or (more likely) I am looking at the wrong diagram. Also did not find a diagram that shows where the keyfob receiver is located or connected so I can't trace where it's signal and power lines go to... There are a number of fuses on the diagrams that provide permament (not through a relay or starting key) power but I don't see a connection to either the central display or keyfob receiver. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The car is a 2.7HDI lefthand drive with what was locally called a 'lignage' trim, but since they do seem to be different depending on region, basically it is one step over the minimum spec, has the small central display, no seat memory. RP11127CJ, so manufactured July 2007. |
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cit-rotti
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 Member No: #3753
Location: Bayern |
RichardKC6 wrote ... Have you got a decent 100Ah S3/019 battery in it? (The other common problem on all cars of this age is the alarm siren module - a lot of 2000s-2010s cars use these integrated boxes with a battery pack in, NiMh or NiCd, and it ages and leaks, corroding the boards and causing short circuits - I had a persistent issue with my PT Cruiser, found the alarm module, removed it, and no more problems of battery drain). Hello, I would also like to remove this thing and would like a detailed description of where the part is located and what needs to be taken into account when removing it. Greetings Wolfgang |
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jamescarruthers
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 Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
cit-rotti wrote ... RichardKC6 wrote ... Have you got a decent 100Ah S3/019 battery in it? (The other common problem on all cars of this age is the alarm siren module - a lot of 2000s-2010s cars use these integrated boxes with a battery pack in, NiMh or NiCd, and it ages and leaks, corroding the boards and causing short circuits - I had a persistent issue with my PT Cruiser, found the alarm module, removed it, and no more problems of battery drain). Hello, I would also like to remove this thing and would like a detailed description of where the part is located and what needs to be taken into account when removing it. Greetings Wolfgang Me too! Years ago, the car used to chirrup to itself when locked. Now it does not, but the alarm light is always red and the (fairly new, correct) battery often only lasts a week or two if not using a car. I also suspect the alarm. |
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