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Vacuum pipe breakage and repairs |
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gmerry
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi all, it seems well documented by E3steve and others that the small vacuum pipes above the throttle housing are prone to breakage when attempting maintenance in this area. Well the inevitable happened to me, and towards the end of the EGR job, I managed to snap one of these small vacuum pipes - near the transition into a piece of rubber. Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector. Regards G |
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321dave
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![]() ![]() Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
gmerry wrote ... Hi all, it seems well documented by E3steve and others that the small vacuum pipes above the throttle housing are prone to breakage when attempting maintenance in this area. Well the inevitable happened to me, and towards the end of the EGR job, I managed to snap one of these small vacuum pipes - near the transition into a piece of rubber. Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector. Regards G That sounds a very good/clever fix G, unfortunately for me I went ahead and purchased a new setup for €150 from my local Citroen dealer. Which in hindsight is mad really for a few bits of pipe. But I suppose I could try returning it, as I'm stalled waiting for the replacement radiator to arrive before moving on the timing belt. But I don't mind as I enjoy working on the car! Bar the basic maintenance (timing belt) the car has only one Lexia fault showing. Preheat for glow plugs. But car drives fine. |
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e3steve
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![]() ![]() ![]() Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
gmerry wrote ... Was that me? I don't really remember a price for the swirl-valves' plumbing. Perhaps I did post that and factored it into what I'd already spent on goodies to do the output tank and the injectors' fuel scavenge pipework that I broke whilst doing the job.Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector. Anyway, wha'evah.... Great idea, G; I'll do a little research into doing as you suggest. Nice one! ![]() |
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joopajaa
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![]() Member No: #3261
Location: Byroslavia, FIN |
Any link or info on "top 3 vacuum tests one should do to 2.7 HDI" or something like that? I mean is there easy steps mechanically to test with vacuum handpump? |
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Backinblack
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![]() Member No: #3296
Location: Tynaarlo |
The better bicycle shop will have Magura hydraulic brake tubing (for the H33 brakes not the disc), it is an exact fit and looks, or might even be, identical plastic tubing. | ||
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![]() Head Administrator, Administrator, Technical Expert, C6 Premier Discount Club |