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Adjusting C6 suspension height

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hunneric   
Wed Jan 13 2016, 10:11am
Joined: Dec 11 2015
Member No: #2432
Location: London
Just took the car to the garage to have this done only to have the mechanic call me back with the news that his Lexia system refuses to go into the variable damping menu. The system just says that it has stopped communicating. Anyone have any ideas why?
ul9601   
Wed Jul 19 2017, 06:59am
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
A couple of questions:
- Did you do the measurements on a flat ground or on a 4-post hoist as per the Citroen instructions? I guess it would be easier to use the hoist for access but is it actually possible to get under the car? The instruction also tells you to set the height to high, then normal setting - I wonder why that is.
- Did you use a tape measure or something else? The tool shown in the instruction is a glorified set square, isn't it? The wheel centre locating tool is a bit over the top as well.
- In theory, isn't it possible to do a quick height check by measuring the distance between the guard and the ground, if reference figures from a correctly adjusted car are available?
Cheers
Sam
cruiserphil   
Thu Jul 20 2017, 09:06am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Hello Sam,

I have the advantage of a pit. For the vehicle height measurements I just ran a straight edge across the pit as a ground reference and measured with a tape measure.

For the wheel radius, I used a small laser level and aligned the laser beam with the hub centre. Then I measured from the ground with a tape measure to the laser line.

I think the height setting change is to "settle" the car. I know after height adjustment you are asked to press down on the front and rear of the car respectively to provoke the suspension to correct itself when the load comes on and after it's removed. You then check that the car has returned to the correct height settings you have set.

I think you could do the quick check that you suggest. If you work out your wheel diameter you can calculate what the height measurements at the measuring points under the car should be for correct height using the formula.

The onerous procedure I had to go through was with Lexia. I have Diagbox now but haven't carried out a height adjustment with it. I'm curious as to whether the procedure now works as it is supposed to?

Best regards,

Phil C.
ul9601   
Fri Jul 21 2017, 04:08am
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
Phil,
Would you be able to do the guard-to-ground measurements when you get a spare minute some time please? I'm pretty sure my front end sits way too high but rides nice enough (back end might be too low and I always felt it's too harsh)
Cheers
Sam
cruiserphil   
Thu Jul 27 2017, 10:53am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Sam,
Missing from forum for a few days. I will measure at the weekend!
Best regards,
Phil C.
ul9601   
Thu Jul 27 2017, 06:57pm
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
cruiserphil wrote ...

Sam,
Missing from forum for a few days. I will measure at the weekend!
Best regards,
Phil C.

Thanks Phil - much appreciated!
cruiserphil   
Tue Aug 01 2017, 11:17am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Sam,

Apologies, but I didn't get to measure the heights as I was busy with other matters in the garage. However, I realise I don't have to for your purpose.
You will need to measure the radius of your wheels including tyres at the correct pressure with the car resting on reasonably level ground.
The formula is:

Rx-HxM = 160+/-6 mm for the front and

Rx-HxM = 111+/-6mm for the rear,

where Rx is radius of the wheel and HxM is the height at the measuring point.

So juggling the formula, the correct height at the front and rear measuring points respectively is:

HxM = Rx-160+/-6 mm

HxM = Rx-111+/-6 mm.

So if your left hand front wheel radius is 310mm, then the correct left hand front height measurement is:

HxM = 310-160+/-6 mm = 150+/-6 mm

If your right hand rear wheel radius is 320mm, then the correct right hand rear height measurement is:

HxM = 320-111+/-6 mm = 209+/-6 mm

You work the same calculation for the other heights based on your measured wheel radius for front right and rear left. If your measured height is then outside your target heights then your not in spec.

Hope this helps,

Best regards,

Phil C.

321dave   
Tue Aug 01 2017, 06:17pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Phil,
If your heights measured different and as a result we're not in spec, what would that do to the ride or the handling of the C6?
ul9601   
Tue Aug 01 2017, 07:20pm
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
Hi Phil,
No probs but the factory measuring reference points are located underbody, which is a bit tricky to access whereas the top of wheel arch is readily accessible - which is why I asked about it. I know some aftermarket spring manufacturers use the top of the wheel arch to calculate the ride height.
Anyway, I'll just have to bite the bullet and get it done if I can manage to get through Lexia access code (or have a garage to look at it).
Cheers
Sam
cruiserphil   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 09:13am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
321Dave,

I'm not sure, haven't tried it. I presume too low runs the risk of bottoming out the suspension on rough roads. Too high - stiffer suspension? Not to mention incorrect headlamp alignment?

Anyone got a view?

Best regards,

Phil C.
cruiserphil   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 09:15am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Sam,

Misunderstood your question. I'll have a look. Give me a day or two!!

Best regards,

Phil C.
gmerry   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 01:43pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Phil, I should really post this elsewhere together with some suspension geometry data: however, I have a problem with the rear suspension (specially driver side) kicking sideways over bumps.

This started after I had all 4 wheels aligned. Prior to that I changed out the rear adjustable toe-in links (old ones were seized). Changing the links but adjusting the new lines to the same length as the old (say+/-1mm) did not induce any sideways kicking.

Prior to that I had excessive rear tyre wear on the inside edges and excessive rear camber.

The excessive camber problem was reduced by realigned the rear wheels.
Does anyone else have a sideways kicking rear suspension?

thanks
cruiserphil   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 03:02pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
New one to me G.

Best regards,

Phil C.
gmerry   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 03:55pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Phil, yes I don't think anyone on this forum has ever reported the sideways kicking issue - but I might have seen something on a Pug 407 forum.

regards
e3steve   
Thu Aug 03 2017, 06:48pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
I have one r/h bend, on a route, which always kicks all my cars sideways a little; but, to be fair to the cars, there is a (dreaded, as a motorcyclist) manhole cover, mid bend, right where the l/h wheels pass over when taking the comfortable line.
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