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Replacing glow plugs on a 2.7 HDI

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travlician   
Fri Jun 03 2011, 02:12AM
Joined: Jan 22 2011
Member No: #350
Location: Paradera
Hi folks,

Since I changed my glow plugs today and encountered some issues I thought it makes sense to share these.

The manual (Citroen service documentation backup) has a page about this but here's what I found:

- The air supply to the butterfly housing and the butterfly housing itself need to be removed, that's in the manual but according to the description you need to remove fuel lines and air tubes. I only disconnected one air tube, given by the bad experience in the past (BX 19D) the working on the fuel lines (hard to bleed).

- The oil filter needs to be removed, also stated in the manual.

- The housing for the oil vapor to engine inlet hoses needs to be removed (lifted with a little force), and to remove that you need to remove the front air duct and the metal air tube that goes from front to back over the engine. I struggled with the metal air tube until I found the two bolts that kept it in place (loosening the hose clamps is obvious). None of this was mentioned in the service manual!

Reason for the replacement was that Lexia mentioned a problem with the pre-post heating relay ( P1351) and I already diagnosed that the the rear 3 glow plugs were not working ( infinite resistance found on the plug that feeds these 3). Of course replaced all 6 and found 4 defective. I assume Lexia won't mention the problem until a full bank of glow plug has gone.

The engine used to give a old style diesel like sound for about 10 seconds after starting and that's gone now. Pre-heating I won't witness here as ambient temps hardly get below 25 centigrade here but post heating is based on coolant temp and done much longer (up to app 3 minutes) than pre-heating. FYI milage is 138000 km (app 86000 miles).

New glow plugs sourced from ebay at less than 10 pounds each, brand / model is RPower 8650, generally advertised for Volvo. Royal Mail brought these in 15 days to Aruba which is pretty good in my opinion.
2 User said Thank You to travlician for this Post :
 Tjensen (22 Feb : 14:06) , e3steve (19 Oct : 08:08)
Dave-Retired   
Fri Jun 03 2011, 07:08AM

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Interesting how the 'post' heating quietens the engine down and not something you would normally consider an issue given the climate you have.

But good to know for us living in cooler climates.
Website
ststech   
Sun Aug 31 2014, 03:11PM
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
my c6 2.7 hdi is a pig to start sometimes you have to turn it over to the point where it drains the battery then throws up virtualy every fault code you can think of one being p1536 then once started sounds like running on 4 cyl other times normal sounds as it should

I pulled the end plug off near camshaft on rear bank and measured very high resistance in meg ohms havent managed to test others yet but as said is a pig to start

do you think that multiple plug failure could cause this
ambient temp around 11 degrees c

thanks simon
Dave-Retired   
Sun Aug 31 2014, 05:54PM

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
P1536 indicates a faulty Brake pedal Switch (in the passenger footwell on RHD Cars)

When you turn the ignition on, are you letting the car run through the check cycle before trying to start?
Website
ststech   
Sun Aug 31 2014, 07:01PM
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
p1351 also was the one relating to pre and post heating thats what im getting
ststech   
Sun Aug 31 2014, 07:10PM
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
i have just checked them all and 5 of them are open circuit only good one
im hoping this is the cause of poor starting
e3steve   
Mon Sep 01 2014, 06:19AM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Are you changing the glowplugs yourself? They have a nasty habit of shearing off when being unscrewed! Mine was a sod of a job....
scrappydoo   
Mon Nov 24 2014, 04:11PM
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
Just done my glowplugs on a 2.7 HDI and access is rubbish but once you remove the throttle housing and the oil vapour housing (no bolts holding this down, it just pulls off though you might have to manoeuvre it around the fuel filter housing to do so). You will need to loosen the metal intercooler hose also.

Use plenty of penetrating oil (I use duck oil) a 1/4 drive ratchet and a deep 8mm socket, be very gentle and although I was panicking one might shear off after reading various horror stories they all came off with very minimal force/effort. It is a job that needs time and patience again though and a steady hand. If you feel you're having to put too much torque on stop before you shear anything!

Oh and for those searching the site for a guide on changing manufacturers call them "Heater Plugs" so search for that!
1 User said Thank You to scrappydoo for this Post :
 e3steve (09 Nov : 15:00)
scrappydoo   
Mon Nov 24 2014, 05:24PM
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
On the same subject was thinking before fitting the new beru glowplugs whether to use a ceramic anti-seize grease/paste on the glowplug threads. I know you shouldn't use copper grease as it can react but finding a local supplier who sells ceramic or zinc anti-seize grease is proving difficult.

Halfords do various cycling versions but not sure they'll hold up to the high temperature???!!!
e3steve   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 09:08AM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
I put my new NGK glowplugs in place after smearing them with heavy electrical silicon grease (RS part 494-124).

I may need to take them out again soon; yesterday's frost should've guaranteed that I'd get the pre-heat symbol, and I didn't. It's a pig to start in the mornings (the starter motor's also playing up again!).

I'll let you all know how easy -- or difficult -- the extraction is...
gmerry   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 09:55AM
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Steve, that is curious that you think you should get the pre-heating sytmbol.

In 5 years of ownership, I only had the symbol come up maybe 5 times during December 2010 and that was when we were down to -10C. And the car starts 1st flick of the key (2007 build date about 55k miles).

Regards
G
e3steve   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 01:42PM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Oddly, Gordon, I did get the pre-heat symbol, but only the once, on the morning after I changed the glowplugs. Never seen it since!
gmerry   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 03:15PM
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi E3steve, not to get pre-heat warning symbol is entirely normal: does the handbook elaborate on this?

Does this mean the only sure way of checking is to measure the individual resistances of the flowplugs?

Regards
G
321dave   
Sun Feb 28 2016, 12:35PM
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
gmerry wrote ...

Hi E3steve, not to get pre-heat warning symbol is entirely normal: does the handbook elaborate on this?

Does this mean the only sure way of checking is to measure the individual resistances of the flowplugs?

Regards
G


Hi all, I'm getting ready to start next Saturday the timing belt replacement. I've been reading up on the forum as usual and started thinking since my only issue left on the lexia to fix was the code p1351 or glow plug issue.

Is it now a good time to sort it out?

So since I'll be stripping out parts in this area, could I get advice as to 1. What are the OEM plug brand used in the 2.7hdi or the next best thing to buy. 2. Is it a wise precaution to buy a plug extractor kit in case the worst happens? Thanks again for the usual great advice and help from everyone on the forum.

321dave
e3steve   
Sun Feb 28 2016, 03:30PM
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
Dave, two or three of mine sheared when I changed them out. I then had to drain off coolant and remove the oil filter and the coolant output tank in order to gain access with my own extractor, the use of which required removal of the bonnet to allow enough room to use my "slide hammer" on the front bank's glowplug!

I had to drill out the insulators with with a 5mm drill, then tap an M6 thread into which I screwed an 80cm length of studding, then I fashioned the slide hammer affair using a hollow, hefty tube -- in fact an old Kokusan m/c starter motor stator & housing from one of my old Hondas!

Once drilled and threaded, I soaked each sheared glowplug with a copious drenching of release agent and left the sodding lot overnight (while my overheated headspace cooled off).

Incidentally, since you're draining the coolant anyway (to replace the water pump) it may be a good idea to replace the output tank ('stat housing) while you're "in there", if you've not already done so, or if you don't have documented assurance that it was replaced within the last 40 or 50k miles.
1 User said Thank You to e3steve for this Post :
 cruiserphil (28 Feb : 21:13)
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