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adamw57
 
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  Member No: #5259
Location: Northamptonshire |
Hello there. I've finally become a C6 owner having wanted one since a teenager and whilst I am generally over the moon with it, there are some issues I'm hoping to get sorted. Chiefly among which is an annoying rattle coming from the rear drivers side of the car. From the drivers seat it sounds like something in the rear door and the check strap has failed so perhaps something to do with the broken components as I've read on this forum so I will try and investigate this. Rear passengers all seem to think its coming from the boot area, I've checked all the obvious things and nothing seems amiss. Other issues include a jerky engine when cold although I had a 2.7 C5 which was exactly the same, a hesitant and slightly rough changing gearbox - I've booked it in for a gearbox oil change - and a quite a bit of engine noise and vibration, certainly more so that my C5s had. Pity as the ride is fabulous and it otherwise spoils the effortless cruising of the car. I don't know if these are faults having never owned or driven another C6 but the brakes require quite a shove to slow the car - although the do have plenty of stopping power - and the power steering is a little heavy at low speeds. No real issues there but it doesn't feel very 'Citroen' Anyway thanks for any advice and I feel privileged to own a C6 at long last. |
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cruiserphil
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    Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Welcome Adamw57, Best start is to search the forum for the issues that you perceive to see what has been discussed. The annoying rattle under the rear seat came up again recently and one place to check is the support brackets for the handbrake cable under the rear of the car. A gearbox oil change is the right starting point for the gearbox issues. Engine noise and vibration is a bit odd, but things like the alternator freewheel pulley can make a lot of noise when it's on the way out. The 2.7 definitely has travel on the brake pedal but it will stop the car. Watch out for the width of shoe you wear (particularly safety boots) because in sudden braking your foot can catch the accelerator pedal simultaneously. Best regards, Phil C. |
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adamw57
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Member No: #5259
Location: Northamptonshire |
Hi Phil, Thank you for your brilliant advice. I’ll have a look at the handbrake support brackets as it does sound like that kind of noise now you mention it. I’ll check out the forums with the other issues and see if the garage can check the alternator pulley when she goes in. It’s nice to know that my breaks are normal at least! Many thanks 
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
If it is the alternator pulley do not hesitate to change to new alternator (or new pulley) If it gives up you will have a car without charging, cooling or servo because it will take the aux belt out. I know....... If this happens it might also be the right moment for new water pump, timing belt, the fragile plastic parts in the cooling system etc because cooling system must down for changing the alternator. | ||
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onthecut
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 Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
Hi Adam. WEith regard to the brakes, as Phil says, they do have some pedal travel before much happens, so if that is what you are referring to then it's not unusual. If however you mean they require some effort to perform, then that isn't normal (in my experience). This would primarily suggest a servo / vacuum issue. To test the servo itself, wwith the footbrake on and engine running, apply the handbrake.(To minimise travel in the system). Let the footbrake off. Turn off the engine. Reapply the footbrake; release and reapply. Do this two or three times. If the servo is good, it is only after the second or third application you should feel the pedal go harder, as the servo assistance is exhausted. Once the pedal has gone hard, while pressing on the pedal, restart the engine and you should feel the pedal move down as fresh vacuum is applied. If the servo is good but the stopping isn't, then time to check for seized pistons / caliper slides, etc. On the topic of vacuum, it's also worth checking the vacuum piping in general. There is quite a nest of it under the engine cover and on mine it was very brittle. A hand held vac pump with gauge is a very useful diagnostic tool in this regard. There is a vacuum diaphragm on the end of each cam cover at the gearbox end, which operate internal flaps in the inlet tract. On mine, one of these was shot and just leeching vaccum away. May also be a factor in poor running. If they are shot, Citroen say you need a new cam cover assembly. Luckily, Land Rover sell a kit to repair them. If you don't have any, even a cheap fault code reader is a good investment as there are numerous potential areas on the engine that may contribute to the roughness. Mike. |
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adamw57
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Member No: #5259
Location: Northamptonshire |
Tjensen wrote ... If it is the alternator pulley do not hesitate to change to new alternator (or new pulley) If it gives up you will have a car without charging, cooling or servo because it will take the aux belt out. I know....... If this happens it might also be the right moment for new water pump, timing belt, the fragile plastic parts in the cooling system etc because cooling system must down for changing the alternator. Yikes! She’s off to a reputable Citroen garage next week so I will ask them to check that out. I believe the water pump and timing belt have already been done thankfully but I will double check the paperwork. I imagine it’s a big job as it was on the C5. |
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adamw57
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Member No: #5259
Location: Northamptonshire |
onthecut wrote ... Hi Adam. WEith regard to the brakes, as Phil says, they do have some pedal travel before much happens, so if that is what you are referring to then it's not unusual. If however you mean they require some effort to perform, then that isn't normal (in my experience). This would primarily suggest a servo / vacuum issue. To test the servo itself, wwith the footbrake on and engine running, apply the handbrake.(To minimise travel in the system). Let the footbrake off. Turn off the engine. Reapply the footbrake; release and reapply. Do this two or three times. If the servo is good, it is only after the second or third application you should feel the pedal go harder, as the servo assistance is exhausted. Once the pedal has gone hard, while pressing on the pedal, restart the engine and you should feel the pedal move down as fresh vacuum is applied. If the servo is good but the stopping isn't, then time to check for seized pistons / caliper slides, etc. On the topic of vacuum, it's also worth checking the vacuum piping in general. There is quite a nest of it under the engine cover and on mine it was very brittle. A hand held vac pump with gauge is a very useful diagnostic tool in this regard. There is a vacuum diaphragm on the end of each cam cover at the gearbox end, which operate internal flaps in the inlet tract. On mine, one of these was shot and just leeching vaccum away. May also be a factor in poor running. If they are shot, Citroen say you need a new cam cover assembly. Luckily, Land Rover sell a kit to repair them. If you don't have any, even a cheap fault code reader is a good investment as there are numerous potential areas on the engine that may contribute to the roughness. Mike. Hi Mike, The brakes do require a bit more of a shove than I’m accustomed to but do seem to have adequate stopping power. Not as responsive as the C5 X7s I’ve had and certainly not like an LHM car but what is  Thats a good trick to check the servo so I’ll give that a try and see how that goes. I’ll check the hoses as well, I have a good mechanic friend who should have a vacuum gauge I can borrow, very handy Land Rover have a repair kit.My friend did scan the car with his scanner actually as I had an engine management light come on and the car went into limp mode. It cleared up after a drive but the light remained on, I believe it was turbo related but I think the gearbox was mentioned too. Touch wood it hasn’t returned. I only use the car about once a week but try not to do short trips as much as I love driving it. Thank you gentlemen for your helpful and informative replies, it’s handy to have people in the know about these rare and beautiful machines. I really appreciate it |
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onthecut
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Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
One of the things I have learned with mine is that you need to be a bit open minded on what the fault code reader tells you. An ABS fault for example will bring up a raft of failure warnings; handbrake, gearbox, ESC and so on -- when the reality is, it's just a sensor. I've had the odd turbo fault flash up on mine, which thankfully have generally gone away by themselves, apparently. Something that is worth checking though is the integrity of the pressurised turbo hoses / pipes. I believe the main feed one that runs along the RH lower side of the engine bay is known to split and I've had one of the short hoses that connects the stainless transfer pipe on top of the engine give out. One thing I did early on in my ownership was have the EGR system programmed out, which removes a whole raft of potential issues and puts an end to oily crud accumualting in the inlet tract. Mike. |
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adamw57
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Member No: #5259
Location: Northamptonshire |
Yes I found with the C5 every time the battery goes flat I get all kinds of warnings flag up. I’ll see if I can check the turbo hoses as well then by the sounds of it they aren’t too difficult to get at???? funnily enough when the engine light came on my first thought was EGR valve playing up. I’m guess there are two on a V6 engine? If they don’t effect the running of the car in a negative way I would be interested in having them programmed out too, one less thing to go wrong then ???? Don’t know if this is relevant in anyway but a couple of weeks after I bought it I discovered a fairly large oil patch on the road right below the LDS tank. Following some excellent advice on this forum I thought it must be the hose in the front wheel arch leaking but it turns out that has been repaired previously. We took all the front under tray off to discover the engine and gearbox was rather oily too, not LDS this time but I presume engine oil. We cleaned it all off including the LDS and touch wood haven’t seen another drop of oil since. The LDS tank didnt seem overly full as far as I could tell, we lowered the car and no fluid was visible |
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