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Let's have another good old automatic transmission oil change thread! |
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Wantathreelitre
 
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  Member No: #3179
Location: Forest Town |
Well, we got 3 litres out of the gearbox, i drove 40 miles then repeated. After 1 change the new oil totalled 43% and after 2 swaps the new oil now represents 67%. In another week i am doing a final oil swap which will give 81% new oil and 19% old. Already after the 2 changes the car feels better. To date i haven't had the ''rev-rise then clank'' that is so disconcerting, although it may happen still of course. But changes are smoother and it seems to get less confused in traffic as to which gear it wants. Watch this space to see if i'm lucky and the sudden clank has really gone, would be very nice if so. |
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Tjensen
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   Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
I had the 3 liter shift on 50 000 km. No discoloring of the oil. New inspection at 100 000 km, still OK color so nothing was done. Now, on 125 000, I will ask again to inspect and maybe shift 3 liters. But my car is driving 90 % long distance. | ||
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jamescarruthers
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 Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Has anyone actually had the megaflush or equivalent carried out on their gearbox? I'm willing to drive practically anywhere to get it done, as long as someone has used them before. I'll turn up with 20L of the correct fluid in the boot, i'd just like their machine to flush it thoroughly. I've phones a few places and they aren't that interested in doing it on the C6. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
With a remote transmission cooler (typically as part of the radiator), its relatively easy to hookup the flushing machine via the transmission fluid hoses to/from the remote cooler. With the C6, the cooler is mounted directly on the transmission: there are no hoses so an adaptor plate is needed to hookup the flushing machine. This is partly the reason why you are finding it hard to interest a service specialist. regards |
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ChrisW
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Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
I recently changed my auto-box fluid. It was running fine but reckoned that after 12 years and 75000 miles it could do with a birthday. Thank you for all the advice from the various posts on this and other threads. Like most jobs, it’s fiddly when doing it for the first time. I did 3 changes, as recommended, and the 2nd and 3rd were easy. Some tips for the novice, like me: • The oil can be very hot when drained and very runny. It will splash no matter how careful you are. Wear stout PVC gloves and put down lots of cardboard. • The drain plug is sized for a 17mm allen key, which I did not have. An 8.8 M10 bolt has an exactly 17mm head and this plus 2 nuts locked together for the 10mm socket did the job perfectly. The drain plug is stiff but a sharp yank, as opposed to heave, released it. • The hardest part is removing and refitting the air filter housing. I found it best to remove the top half first, as you would to change the filter, before removing the lower part. • Best to tie-up the electrical connector nearest to the engine because this likes to fall down underneath the filter. This is annoying if, like me, you only discover this after you have refitted the filter! • I used 10L MANNOL ATF Multivehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid JWS 3309. £32 delivered from ebay. It’s now £48 after Brexit (made in Germany). • 2.6 litres drained off first and used this amount for the 2 flushing fills. I used Citroen’s drip-drip method for the final fill and it took 2.9 litres. So the fill level may not be that critical and the self levelling suspension gives a good enough level for filling. • The level and filling plugs have o-ring seals that I did not replace as they were in good condition and I was concerned about compatibility between the fluid and my rubber o-rings. I didn’t change the aluminium washer for the drain plug as it was unmarked. All in all, a satisfying job and I pleased I did it myself (although I swore at times) because I know it was done right. |
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Fraunie
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Member No: #3763
Location: Stockdorf |
In addition: The drip-method to get the correct level has to take place at an oil-temperature of 60° C (+8/-2). To verify that you need a Diagbox/Lexia. Air condition and heating must be switched off. As described in the "Carnet de Poche". |
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ChrisW
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Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
Agreed, but if you haven't got a Lexia all you need to do is let it idle until the box is just too hot to touch, which will be near enough to 60C. A few degrees difference will make hardly any difference to the fluid level - the fluid will expand but so will the gearbox itself. Good to know about the a/c and heater, although I don't see how it would affect the gearbox itself. It didn't say anything about that in the Citroen UK procedure. |
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Fraunie
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Member No: #3763
Location: Stockdorf |
Sorry Chris, but no... If you don't have a Lexia (or any other device showing the temperature) use at least an infrared thermometer and measure the outside of the housing at different spots. I do gearbox flushing professionally and I can assure you that the temperature is of utmost importance... |
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ChrisW
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Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
This is interesting. Why are you so concerned about the temperature? Is it because cold fluid expands when it gets hot and, if the gearbox is filled with fluid at too low a temperature, this expansion results in an over-filled gearbox? | ||
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Fraunie
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Member No: #3763
Location: Stockdorf |
Me, I am not concerned about the temperature, the manufacturer of the gearbox/car is... Every gearbox/manufacturer has their very own, very specific method at which temp. the oil-level should be measured. They just have set a standard temp for the correct level of their very own gearboxes. Gearbox oil is expanding 100ml per 10° warmer. Meaning, if you set the correct level at a temp. too low, the gearbox will be overfilled at a warmer temp. and the oil will then spray out everywhere (I have seen it). All the parts within a automatic-transmission gearbox need a very specific amount of oil to work properly. You can only set that amount correctly if you measure at the correct temp.... |
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ChrisW
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Member No: #1335
Location: Surrey |
I am a scientist and engineer, well used to measuring things. The density vs. temperature for ATF is well documented: 0.8462 g/cc at 50C, 0.8398 g/cc at 60C. For the 2800cc fill for the C6, this means that 2800cc at 50C becomes 2821cc at 60C, an increase of 21ml, not 100ml. But the 10C increase will also cause the aluminium sump and steel drip-tube to expand, which will reduce the volume of over-fill to 17ml (based on the coefficients of linear thermal expansion for aluminium and steel). The extra 17ml corresponds to an increase in level in the C6 box of 0.36 millimetres, which is of no consequence. I agree that temperature is important but my "just too hot to touch" test is sufficiently accurate and you don't need a Lexia or IR thermometer. |
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