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Head gasket saga begun .!! |
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sidenham
 
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   Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
No it's still shows a constant 5v on pin 1 . Only returns to 0 once the ignition is switched off and all the clicking stops. Unable to take a reading with the sensor out of the manifold for fear of flooding the engine with diesel. | ||
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MGmike
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   Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
If you assume there's pressure in the rail left over from the last start attempt, you need to find a way to check the sensor with no pressure to be sure it's faulty. If it is faulty you're going to have to remove it to replace it anyway! Place rags under it and crack it open slowly, I don't think there'll be too much come out as the HP pump won't be moving any new diesel until you turn the engine over. | ||
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
I've tested the sensor out of the fuel rail with another duff one in its place so no fuel leakage. Still shows 5v on pin 1 blue and on pin 3 orange. No drop in voltage until ignition is switched off. If this is a duff brand new sensor that cost a packet me thinks some fur will fly. That will be two new sensors in the space of two weeks. The last one has a full years Guarantee so that will be on it's way back should it be at fault. Im hoping it not the problem and it just a wire that's being silly. |
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MGmike
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Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
Sounds like it's goosed! The signal voltage should have swung to it's lowest point to indicate a low fuel pressure. Guess you'll need to find a good one to compare operations. | ||
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
Ok replaced the sensor, but thought i'd have a good look at everything fuel related. glad I did because the blead off return pipe back through cooler had broken away from red plug base. Took it all apart, AGAIN, repaired it all AGAIN. Now I have to say this and feel stupid about what I've done, and that is as follows. When I checked and re-tensioned the pump belt I turned the cam belt nut without making absolutely certain that nothing else would move, I had a feeling that the belt had jumped a notch. Thought nothing of it because its the pump belt. Wrong the belt that had jumped a notch would appear to have been the main timing belt. And how do I know this Because she is running like she's only firing on five but all six are operating without that smooth feel six has. I'm having to isolate for the next two weeks, surgery due, but that will give me something to do during this period. Did I mention this was a SAGA. 
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MGmike
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Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
So, was the sensor faulty? Did you measure the output voltages on the new one to see if it delivered the voltages we think were expected? Okay, we've all that  moment at some point and I hope you don't skin too many knuckles before you head to the operating table  Good luck with the hospital visit and we'll be eagerly awaiting the post op C6 saga instalment  |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
MGmike wrote ... So, was the sensor faulty? Did you measure the output voltages on the new one to see if it delivered the voltages we think were expected? Okay, we've all that moment at some point and I hope you don't skin too many knuckles before you head to the operating table Good luck with the hospital visit and we'll be eagerly awaiting the post op C6 saga instalment Just to say I’m taking notes at the moment, because I’ll be headin this way soon. I’m getting a bit nervous about the fuel lines and pipes/tubes in the engine bay! Best to do a good check and see if anything’s getting bad. I still have the memory of buying spares from a breaking C6 that burned out from the front and stopped at the end of the windscreen!! |
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
Yes Mike the sensor was faulty, new one checked out fine. And dave, what I did to get over the vacuum pipes that had become brittle was to replace them with copper brake pipes. Just added a 1-2mm ring of solder at 10mm along from the end to get a better seal using short 4mm internal corded hose as a coupling. Works fine. Car is now on stands at the front again all ready for me to remove the engine under trays. Then remove the rear CAT to gain access AGAIN to the flywheel locking pins hole. Remove the belt covers and find out which cam has let the belt slip one notch. Suspect it to be the rear bank after the tensioner. New water pump, both belts + iddlers and a new tensioner. This time I'm leaving Nothing to chance, I want this Saga OVER. 
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MGmike
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Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
thanks for confirming. Did you get a warranty replacement? You do realise that once this saga is over there'll be another one waiting to bite you on the bum 
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
I wouldn't bank on it Mike, I've probably fixed ever [%*^#@!] thing that could ever go wrong with it. And a few that have been done more than once, just to make sure they know their fixed. I'm absolutlly certain this car has a warped sense of humour. Because ever time I finish doing one thing something else cleverly goes wrong. We will see after I've done the belts. I'm putting new brakes and rubber shoes on all round as well. The car has been fighting me all the way BUT I think I'm winning.   
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David Hallworth
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   Member No: #90
Location: Glasgow |
If it's a diesel, you don't need to remove a cat to pin the flywheel. If you unclamp the flexi nearest the gearbox side you can get your arm up there to peg it. That's how I got mine anyway  David. |
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
I was thinking about that David, and will defo try that, taking of the rear CAT is a pain and getting that locking pin in without removing it is most welcome Thanks.  . It's now Saturday 18th and I'm feeling in a much better mood after West Ham beat Watford 3-1 and have probably done enough to stay in the Premiership. So now is the time to get back under and finish replacing this Belt. 
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sidenham
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Member No: #3993
Location: St Marys Bay, Kent. |
Ever had the feeling that your car "Hates" you. I'm certain mine does. It's given me about 2 months of driving since its purchase after just over a year of ownership. If you've read this post you'll have seen most of the things done, But now a few things have raised there head just to be annoying. NOW the only fitting that was not replaced during the water problem was this item with the part numbers ( NORMA-RSS NQPS3 NW28 >PA66-GF30<. It's the quick connector from top rad hose to thermostat 90deg elbow. Split in two and dumped all the water again. nightmare. Waiting for the replacement and hoping that no damage has be done to heads. The other problem I'm having is that after changing both heads the Cam caps seem to be, but not sure, loose. Also some of the lifters have started to have that irritating clatter, not too bad, but enough to feel I should change them all. Might even replace the Cam followers at the same time. Thats another Winter job so as soon as the elbow arrives I'm getting some use out of the [%*^#@!] thing. Providing no damage has been done to the heads again. A little post script to MG Mike, you were right bum dully smacked. .
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