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Coolant level sensor retrofit solved.

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rwb   
Fri Oct 04 2019, 05:26pm
Joined: Dec 22 2014
Member No: #1988
Location: Telford
I've just heard that there was a recall on 407s to remove the level sensor from the coolant tank because water was creeping up the wiring and into the ECU!
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321dave   
Fri Oct 04 2019, 05:36pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
rwb wrote ...

I've just heard that there was a recall on 407s to remove the level sensor from the coolant tank because water was creeping up the wiring and into the ECU!


I also heard that.
C6Dave   
Sat Oct 05 2019, 01:58pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Replaced my header tank today as it was damaged as shown in the image (no idea how but the hose had been 'siliconed' in place) and as I couldn't guarantee it would seal, even with new pipes, replaced it with one from Autodoc in Germany and it has the hole for a level sensor already in place.





New Tank



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Tjensen   
Sat Oct 05 2019, 04:59pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
Did you change the clips and hoses ? I have new tank waiting, but will not risk cracking up something when changing tanks.
C6Dave   
Sat Oct 05 2019, 05:49pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Tjensen wrote ...

Did you change the clips and hoses ? I have new tank waiting, but will not risk cracking up something when changing tanks.

Yes I changed the small 'top' hoses, bottom one was fine and the 'clip' for that is simply a piece of wire that holds the pipe.

Top hoses you need to PRESS the top of the moulded clip so the sides open and gently twist the pipe so it comes free. It should come out pretty easily.




Once the top hoses are out, remove the securing bolt to the wing and then lift the tank to access the clip on the bottom hose.

That clip is simply shaped like a horseshoe and when pulled up or pushed down (depends on which way up it is, mine had the open ends at the top) then the tank will come free of the hose with a gentle twist again.

Hardest part was getting the 1 securing bolt back in, ended up using a 1/4" drive M10 socket on an extension 10cm long as the 3/8th socket was to big and fouled the tank meaning I couldn't get the bolt lined up correctly with the threaded hole.

Still only took 15 minutes though.....
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C6Dave   
Mon Oct 07 2019, 07:16am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Looking through some technical documents yesterday I spotted that the 2.7 HDi coolant system pressure cap is preset at 1.4 Bar (20 psi)

It's no wonder things can leak and drain the coolant out if not 100% secure and in tip top condition. thermostat housing seals, water inlet tank, coolant return pipe left wheel arch etc.

Thinking about this the Traction Avants coolant system is not pressurised, most cars back in the 60's and 70's I seem to remember ran at around 7 psi (just under 0.5 Bar) so why does the C6 coolant system run so high?

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speedfix   
Mon Oct 07 2019, 11:09am
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
A pound of cap pressure raises the boiling point of water 3 degrees, the C6 temperature ranges that the engine run at the top end in stop go traffic on a hot day IMO is close to the limit of the system with a 2.7hdi, the higher pressure then less likely to boil. if you start out with water that boils at 212, then apply 10 psi, that raises that boiling point 30 degrees. so now your cooling system is able to handle 252 degrees, then there is the antifreeze that will have its effects!

Your lucky to have a waterpump on your traction, some of my old cars have a thermos syphon system with no water pump!
Tjensen   
Mon Oct 07 2019, 11:25am
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
The design is OK, it is the rust and the low grade plastic parts that is the problem. Probably the same with other manufacturers.I never had any problems, but changed waterpump, the long rusty tube, inlet and outlet tank and have a spare main tank.
C6Dave   
Mon Oct 07 2019, 01:22pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
speedfix wrote ...

A pound of cap pressure raises the boiling point of water 3 degrees, the C6 temperature ranges that the engine run at the top end in stop go traffic on a hot day IMO is close to the limit of the system with a 2.7hdi, the higher pressure then less likely to boil. if you start out with water that boils at 212, then apply 10 psi, that raises that boiling point 30 degrees. so now your cooling system is able to handle 252 degrees, then there is the antifreeze that will have its effects!

So that's raising the boiling point from 100c to 115c at sea level for those not 'old school' using Fahrenheit
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C6Dave   
Fri Oct 25 2019, 05:42pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Given it's 3 years since this thread was started I thought it worth asking vaho if everything was still OK with his car and if there was any sign of any issues with 'capillary action'

vaho wrote ...

Short answer is that no problems but to be honest I have not used the car for everyday driving during the last two years, I drove it only in the summer and only few thousand kilometers per year. So no high mileage/usage experience but not a single problem with the new sensor nor capillary action.


That was good to hear and I personally would think that as the sensor was still sat in coolant all that time 'capillary action' would still be a possibility whether the car was used or not and fitting the sensor is still worthwhile as we know from a previous 'survey' that the upper and lower plastic coolant tanks deteriorate with age, not simply mileage.

Hopefully my current car will have it fitted next week (if we get some dry weather so I can actually do it).

Low usage of the car may actually make it more prone to catastrophic coolant loss for unsuspecting owners if they think the issue only happens with high mileage C6's.
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C6Dave   
Wed Oct 30 2019, 12:51pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
OK finally wired up the coolant level sensor and... nothing, car didn't pick it up so...

Had a look with Lexia but I only get as far as the RPO request screen and it won't go any further.

In Diagbox I can see that the coolant level sensor is marked 'inactive' but can't figure out where, or how to change that so does anyone have a quick guide on how to do it please?
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David Hallworth   
Wed Oct 30 2019, 01:33pm

Joined: Apr 16 2010
Member No: #90
Location: Glasgow
C6Dave wrote ...

OK finally wired up the coolant level sensor and... nothing, car didn't pick it up so...

Had a look with Lexia but I only get as far as the RPO request screen and it won't go any further.

In Diagbox I can see that the coolant level sensor is marked 'inactive' but can't figure out where, or how to change that so does anyone have a quick guide on how to do it please?


If nobody replies before I get home this evening, I'll fire my laptop up and have a look.
cruiserphil   
Thu Oct 31 2019, 08:56am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Hello Dave,

If my memory serves me correctly the option to change the status to present is in the BSI menu in Diagbox. It's one of those functions that requires the 03114 code to change. Herself has the 2.7 in Dublin today so I can't check it out at the moment.

Best regards,

Phil C.
C6Dave   
Thu Oct 31 2019, 10:55am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Thanks to David Hallworth the sequence for switching on the coolant level sensor via Diagbox in a C6 is as follows:

Diagbox Sequence Select:

Select: 'Repair'

In Repair > Full scan

Select: BSI > Configuration - then

> Manual Configuration
> Vehicle Configuration
> Engine

Highlight coolant level sensor and click Green tick , bottom right

> Click Green tick again
> Click 'Present'
> Click gears icon beside the Green tick

Sensor should now show as 'Present'
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Tjensen   
Fri Nov 01 2019, 12:56pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
But this operation is not possible on the 3.0 Hdi ?
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