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2006 407 2.7 HDI coolant leak ?
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stumpo   
Thu Feb 14 2019, 02:01pm
Joined: Feb 14 2019
Member No: #3825
Location: Transvaal
 Hi everyone
New here
I just want to first make sure that the cooling system of the peugeot 407 coupe 2.7hdi is the same as the c6 ?

If so, please could anyone perhaps tell me where to start troubleshoot the coolant leak.

i have let the car stand still for months after a cambelt replace, oil pump and waterpump replace, that the coolant box was almost entirely dry after 2 months, looking at the very bottom of the box there was some water left.

Now i am wondering if the garage actually forgot to add coolant ot if it did disappear indeed (i did have a coolant loss problem before the replacement of the parts)

Anyway i have poured in distilled water, it has taken about a litre of water to fill it without starting the engine, i plan on driving straight to the 3rd party garage on the first startup to troubleshoot the coolant leak however they are not peugeot specialists, any one know if i could give them a pointer as to where they might start looking ? i have not started the engine yet is has been standing for 2 months now.
e3steve   
Tue Feb 19 2019, 09:17pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 Hi Stumpo,

Yes, the powertrain is likely to be almost identical to that of the C6, therefore the cooling system will most likely not have been altered for the 407. Same chassis, different clothing.

BUT! I couldn't categorically state that the steel coolant pipe (that runs beneath the end of the gearbox and almost in the lowest part of the engine bay, inboard of the left wheelarch) is the of the same nature, ie: soluble.

Is there no sign of a leak at all?

The other common point of failure is the "coolant output tank" -- thermostat housing -- which nestles in the top of the vee, beneath the Y-split throttle metering unit at the right-hand end of the engine.

Bleeding the cooling system is a bit of a process of continual topping-up with the engine running, then releasing the bleed points at intervals: one on top of the r/h end of the radiator (a plastic cross-cut quarter-turn screw), the second in the hose that runs above the engine r/h end, backwards and then between the rear bank and the firewall, to the heater (a plastic knurled-edge flat screw, like a small coin). The third is in the heater return hose, again between the rear bank and the firewall, but at the l/h end of the engine; it's a bit of a b u g g e r to see and to reach, and it looks (feels) like a Schrader tyre valve cap.

Distilled water not good. Water boils, and if the engine overheats it will just become steam. Red O.A.T. (or Super-OAT) coolant should be used. Ready-to-use coolant has a higher boiling point and a lower freezing point.
onthecut   
Wed Feb 27 2019, 05:54pm
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 Probably a bit late looking at the date, but I've just had a leak session on my C6.

As it was difficult to be sure where the water was emerging, decided to put some dye into the header tank. I used 'Momument' drain trace dye from Screwfix. Fabulous -- bright fluorescent green; no black lamp needed. Miniscule quantity to produce a result.

Turns out mine was emerging past the O ring the thermostat housing pushes over toward the oil cooler end. Also discovered one of the plastic hose stubs had turned to mush.

Mike.
 

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