Login   
C6owners :: Forums :: C6 Support :: The Garage
<< Previous thread | Next thread >>

Removal of swirl valves
Home   Forum Rules    Forum Help  Conversion Tools
   
Please Register to enjoy additional Member Benefits
Author Post
Ciaran2   
Tue Feb 05 2019, 10:22pm
Joined: Dec 30 2018
Member No: #3789
Location: .
 Hi guys,

In the process of researching various modes of major mechanical failure - Click Here - and preventing future occurences, I came across the following: - Click Here - regarding swirl flaps and their propensity in some cases, for taking a trip down the inlet.

This has led me to consider the possibility of this happening on the HDI engines. Has anyone ever heard of it occurring?
I'm now considering whether its possible to remove the swirl valves entirely and still have normal running on the 2.7Hdi. Has anyone done this or heard of it?

I'd be quite interested to hear any thoughts anyone might have regarding this. As I understand it, the swirl valves are intended to provide better economy / less emissions in certain circumstances, but like the DPF, they're not an absolute necessity, and if there's a risk of them breaking and causing major damage, I'd sooner consign them to the bin....

Ciaran
arconell3   
Thu Feb 07 2019, 03:43pm
Joined: Jun 28 2012
Member No: #922
Location: Kalkar
 The construction of the swirl valves on a 2.7 HDI is completely different from the BMW swirl valve. As far as I know such occurrences are unknown for the 2.7. Besides, removing them will seriously affect the driveability of your car, the engine becomes extremely noisy up to around 1800 rpm. The only problem sometimes occurring with these valves is that the membrane of the vacuum control system starts leaking. That can be easily replaced but is caused by dirt on the valves and valve shafts, resulting in the control mechanism getting stuck. That eventually rips the membrane.

Best advice: Clean up and keep your engine clean. Only use premium diesel fuel*, it will keep your engine clean and prevent clogging of EGR's, swirl valves, valves and valve seats and best of all keep your injectors clean.

DON'T blank the EGR's, that results in (much) higher combustion temperatures for which the engine is not laid out.

See also - Click Here -

*Only premium diesel fuels contain detergents that will remove/dissolve dirt from the whole fuel system and combustion chambers. But it is a slow process, it will eventually clean up a really dirty engine after about 10-20,000 miles. So doing most of the cleaning beforehand will help a lot.

Regards, Robert
Website
e3steve   
Sun Feb 10 2019, 04:12pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 Robert, I'm in full agreement with the use of only premium diesel; and no, not just every third/fourth/fifth tankful!

I've been carrying out some preventive work on my 3.0HDi, prior to my (current) 2000km skiing trip:

~ Engine oil & filter -- not due, but I'm only going half the recommended intervals
~ Gearbox fluid two 3-litre changes
~ Coolant output tank ('stat housing) replaced... Just. In. Case!
~ Coolant fully drained and replaced (still using Comma G30)

There was a bit of a mucky gathering under the throttle body, so once the whole sheboodle was back up together I power-washed the engine bay, after bagging-off the electronics box behind the left headlamp. Don't start grizzling; I have a method of doing this: get the engine bay up to temp (bonnet closed); leave the engine running; WD40 the oily bits to break down the muck; blast everywhere with the power-wash lance, then blast all the nooks & crannies with compressed air. JOB DONE!

The images speak for themselves, regarding the sole diet of premium fuel; the coolant tank ('stat housing) images just for posterity, and a learned lesson:

Rear bank airbox in my 2.7, in 2013, at 85,000 miles; that crud is soot created by using non-detergent diesel:



Rear bank airbox in my "3", last week, at 98,000 miles:



Coolant output tank removed:



The 'old' tank, no apparent problems:



The tank from the 2.7, causing it to puke in 2013 -- red arrow shows the parting at the flange where the coolant escaped; yellow-ringed part shows witness marks of ongoing slow leak, prior to my removing the tank (the elbow just broke off when I was removing it):
Miguelduarte   
Thu Jan 04 2024, 09:43pm
Joined: Nov 30 2023
Member No: #5412
Location: Friedelsheim
arconell3 wrote ...

...The only problem sometimes occurring with these valves is that the membrane of the vacuum control system starts leaking. That can be easily replaced



Sorry to highjack the post.... but since I have a leaking membrane, do you know where can I buy the membrane and how to change it?

Thanks
cruiserphil   
Fri Jan 05 2024, 10:32am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Hello Miguelduarte,

Here is member Vaho's excellent tutorial - Click Here - . The repair parts are available from Jaguar with the part number included by Vaho. I did this repair several years ago and it was very straightforward!!

Best regards,

Phil C.
 

Jump:     Back to top

User Colour Key:
Head Administrator, Administrator, C6 owner, Technical Expert, C6 Premier Discount Club