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meliskay72
 
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   Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
To robert(arconell3) Thank you for taking part, every bit helps toward a practical soln. ( I hope ). 1) This infers that the wiring to the turbo electrovalve is a plug termination, correct or no ? 2) As far as I am aware, the driver took the car 4 or 5 miles along the road, plenty of "poke" present, (this was after having cleared the fault via digibox ) at which point the "verve" was lost, so he turned round and took the car back to the garage. I assume he did not turn off the engine, but I will obtain confirmation of this tomorrow. 3) I have brought the car back home temporarily. I noticed that the small display now displays periodically a fault message re the problem, and the orange engine management light in the main display is lit. Neither of these were seen originally, and the garage advises me that these are now seen "because the earlier faults were cleared (digitally). I am still contemplating that. nb. car is still in limp mode. 4) I will try to locate the plug you mentioned to see if I am able to clean it up. 5) To confirm, up to now, when the car is functioning normally, it goes into this limp whilst driving along, no warnings etc. _________________ to Dave-Retired. I am studying the download which you cited and will be back to you. _______________ to travlician A very interesting post especially for 04.23 hrs. Does this mean that you found broken wires within the electrovalve itself? I suspect I may be contacting you again for more info. and how you separated the parts. Drive safely everyone, regards, meliskay72_ |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
To Hattershaun. RE yours of 17/7; The garage has been very specific that the problem revolves around the rear turbo electrovalve, which I understand is different from the EGR valves. So far they have not reared their heads. regards, meliskay72 |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
To Travlician. Having had further thoughts on this fault on GF58, it seems sensible to go for "simplest first". If you can spare the time, can you give me a breakdown of everything you did, the what where when and how, to achieve a repaired electrovalve, any pics. etc It really will be of great benefit to me if you can help. breathless, meliskay72 |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
To Dave-Retired. Hello again. Referring to yours of 17/7/18. I think that I have found the eBay one that you quoted, and note your recommend, but how do you feel about longevity, quality etc on this at such a low (relatively) price? I ask because I recall you are not one for cutting corners normally. I have had a good look at the PDF you cited (unfortunately 2 of the pictures, B1HPJC and 'KC are missing the bottom 20% on each in my download), and I suspect that my initial problem will be getting the car high enough off the ground to do the work. I also wonder if it is necessary to actually remove the exhaust manifold from the engine, although perhaps one cannot access all the bolts holding the turbo to the manifold? kind regards, meliskay72 |
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travlician
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  Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
What I did is remove the actuator, first removing the connector, the clip that fixes it to the vane control arm of the turbo unit and then remove 3 bolts that hold the actuator to the turbo unit. Access from the bottom after removal of the DPF. I noticed someone posted on this forum it can be done from through the right wheel well. The process of fixing the actuator is explained in a YouTube video : - Click Here - . Hope this helps! Regarding my posting times, We do live in different time zones on this planet  |
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arconell3
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  Member No: #922
Location: Kalkar |
meliskay72 wrote ... To robert(arconell3) ...........3) I have brought the car back home temporarily. I noticed that the small display now displays periodically a fault message re the problem, and the orange engine management light in the main display is lit. Neither of these were seen originally, and the garage advises me that these are now seen "because the earlier faults were cleared (digitally). I am still contemplating that. nb. car is still in limp mode. ..... 5) To confirm, up to now, when the car is functioning normally, it goes into this limp whilst driving along, no warnings etc. ............. regards, meliskay72_ I am still puzzled with the explanations from your garage. You write: the garage advises me that these are now seen "because the earlier faults were cleared (digitally). Frankly, and I'm trying to be polite, that is a load of rubbish. Seriously, if that is what they said AND meant to say, you'd better find another workshop. Anyway, all this is plenty of reason to get a second opinion from another garage. What also strikes me as somewhat odd is that you have been told what all these readout from Diagbox say, which faults were present. Diagbox diagnostic tool also comes with a print mode, just hit the button and a printout from that session comes out and can be handed to you. This is what most garages do when they present their customers with an advice to repair or renew a part. Maybe there is another C6 driver somewhere near you who owns a Diagbox, that would be an easy way to get such a readout which even may be published here so that other knowledgeable C6 drivers can help. The main reason why I am saying this is that limp mode is also the result of... a valve timing error, i.e. a timing belt not being put on correctly. Which also would explain that a warning is not flashed. Again, get yourself an independent Diagbox readout first, and use that for planning further steps. Good luck, Robert. (Ps: I am in Germany, and have a Diagbox, but I am not planning to visit the UK any time soon, I'm afraid. Sorry |
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C6Dave
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  Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
meliskay72 wrote ... To Dave-Retired. Hello again. Referring to yours of 17/7/18. I think that I have found the eBay one that you quoted, and note your recommend, but how do you feel about longevity, quality etc on this at such a low (relatively) price? I ask because I recall you are not one for cutting corners normally. If it's a genuine Garrett made by Honeywell there should be no problem with quality. |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
This is for all interested or assisting parties on my GF58. Can the dignotics be read out by any garage with a working Diagbox or Lexia, which will make obtaining a second opinion easier. If anyone proximate has their own, I am near Beverley East Yorks. regards, meliskay72. |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
meliskay72 wrote ... This is for all interested or assisting parties on my GF58. Can the dignotics be read out by any garage with a working Diagbox or Lexia, which will make obtaining a second opinion easier. Yes is the short answer, some garages may have a 'snap on' diagnostic reader which will read codes as well. Depends on how far your prepared to travel but there are a couple of 'Independent Cit Specialists' in Yorkshire, Citraulix - Click Here - and Ray Calvert - Click Here - both in Bradford |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
To travlician. Further to your kind response 19/7, do you have any more clues wrt the other posting you had noticed, accessing "through the right wheel well"? I am asking because I have not yet found it and am still wading through many pages. At the moment I am of a mind to try your inspection, but don't have access to a hoist or pit so from below it will be tricky. Whilst doing this I am also taking arconell3 advice re a second opinion. What a life! many thanks, meliskay72 |
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
meliskay72 wrote ... To travlician. Further to your kind response 19/7, do you have any more clues wrt the other posting you had noticed, accessing "through the right wheel well"? I am asking because I have not yet found it and am still wading through many pages. At the moment I am of a mind to try your inspection, but don't have access to a hoist or pit so from below it will be tricky. Whilst doing this I am also taking arconell3 advice re a second opinion. What a life! many thanks, meliskay72 I tried to find it in vain. Maybe I remember wrong. I noticed Paulius stating the actuator can be fixed with dismantling anything, in this post: - Click Here - |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
Further to much searching and a lot of thought on all the foregoing I am now fairly convinced that the problem lies in the turbo actuator electrics, living in a black(?) box attached to the rear turbo. Can anyone confirm any of the following please, as I am going to have a go at removing the suspect (the box only) for further examination, and as previously mentioned I cannot position the car high enough to access from below, so must work from the side. 1) The box appears to be very much to the near-side of the car. Is this the case, and can the box be accessed from there, albeit awkwardly? 2) Is there any "trick" to separating the plug from the box? 3) Ditto the box etc from the turbo? 4) Where is the best place to find the terminal functions of the control? 5) Is anyone really familiar with these turbos who can face a telephone discussion about them? If yes please PM me with contact details and best times. I am more or less forced to follow this path as money is short and it very sad to be driving a poorly C6. |
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
As I see it: 1) I've recently been doing some work in that area and to me the only way to get the actuator out is from below. 2) Just pull it off, requires some force but not extreme 3) 3 bolts and a split-ring. The bolts are a bit tricky to reach, it's more feeling then seeing but can be done (I did it 3 times as the first 2 repairs of the actuator were not long lasted) 4)No idea what you want to know here 5)I'm no turbo specialist, do know a lot about electronics. On a final note, when redoing wires inside the actuator box, make sure you get all the way to the copper, the material that is on it is absolutely not fit to solder, this is why my first 2 attempts were not successful. |
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meliskay72
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Member No: #1645
Location: east yorks |
to travlician. ref. 4), if I can detach the box ok, find faulty connections inside, resolder etc then before reassembly it would be sensible to test the controller to ensure that it is now functional. If non functional then perhaps the actuator motor has gone, or other fault occurring. I asked 4) to see if anyone knows about the wiring into the box and what voltages could be applied where to test it to some extent. I thank you for the time you have spent on this. regards, Michael |
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travlician
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Member No: #350
Location: Paradera |
I tested by connecting the actuator to the connector in the car, letting it dangle just low enough to see the actuator arm and then started the test procedure with Lexia. I don't remember the connections but it is basically +12V, 0V and a pulse width signal. The later is a bit tricky to produce, specially since it's 12Vpp. | ||
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