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Bent jacking points

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sotweedfactor   
Sat Mar 24 2018, 02:30pm
Joined: May 30 2015
Member No: #2185
Location: Surrey
Has anyone straightened out bent jacking points? If so, how, and was the repair successful and enduring?

Failing that, how do we live with bent jacking points? Fashion a bit of hard wood with a suitably-shaped recess? Any pictures?
MikeH   
Sun Mar 25 2018, 08:05pm
Joined: Jan 22 2014
Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk
You can do it with a jack pushing against an immovable object. Once done, you might want to consider making a block of wood like the one in the pictures attached to carry in your boot. I made it out of an oak block and if you make sure to get the cut against the grain, it works fine on all four jacking points. The weight of the car is held on the plate support rather than the plate itself. It's worked fine for me for all the years I've had the car and never had a bent jacking point since the first (at a tyre fitters).


5 User said Thank You to MikeH for this Post :
 C6Dave (26 March 2018) , cruiserphil (26 March 2018) , eke (26 March 2018) , 321dave (26 March 2018) , sotweedfactor (27 March 2018)
C6Dave   
Mon Mar 26 2018, 08:20am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Any chance you can add a few dimensions to one of the images to give everyone a starting point please?
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MikeH   
Mon Mar 26 2018, 11:41am
Joined: Jan 22 2014
Member No: #1555
Location: Norfolk
Others might have far better ideas but it's just something that worked for me. Make sure to cut it with the grain as shown in the pictures and good luck.

6 User said Thank You to MikeH for this Post :
 C6Dave (26 March 2018) , eke (26 March 2018) , sotweedfactor (27 March 2018) , 321dave (04 April 2018) , meliskay72 (19 July 2018) , Fraunie (20 January 2020)
Nikolaj   
Sun Jan 19 2020, 12:33pm
Joined: Aug 29 2019
Member No: #4047
Location: Roskilde
I had to use a big plummers wrench to straighten out my jack point, but only to find it bend again, when I had to take the wheel of.

A floor jack does make a small sideway force, as it don't lift straight up, and therefore rools in under the car as it goes up.

I didn't know that both sides of the jack point was strong enough, especially the plastic side, but since the wood block works perfect, it must be I guess.

But have you tried the jack in the car? it has a less deep groove, so I would fear that the jack point would bend again using that.

And if that happens, the car would probably slide of that small flimsy jack, that comes with the car.

I was thinking about trying to strengthing the jack point, but as it is bend where it goen into the construction, it might be a waste of time.

Has anybody tried to strengthen these jack points?

C6Dave   
Sun Jan 19 2020, 12:46pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
I had mine straightened but the guy who did it used an 'induction' heater to warm them up so they wouldn't crack/be further weakened whilst straightening.
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Nikolaj   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 05:56am
Joined: Aug 29 2019
Member No: #4047
Location: Roskilde
Would it be right to assume, that this mainly happens to the front jackpoints!?

From memory, the thickess of the jackpoint is the same as the C5, which was no problem for mine (2.0), I guess the V6 C5 could have same problem.

It just make you wonder, that CitroƩn strengthen these jack points on the C6 (V6 C5) as it was already a problem on the XM.
C6Dave   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 08:21am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Nikolaj wrote ...

Would it be right to assume, that this mainly happens to the front jackpoints!?


No it happens to the rear ones as well. Usually when numpties in a garage put the car on a 2 post lift. But can also be done when changing a wheel with a trolley jack.
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Nikolaj   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 02:39pm
Joined: Aug 29 2019
Member No: #4047
Location: Roskilde
Hmm. trolley jack, thats me, and my local Citroen garage use a 2 post lift, he did however have some kind of rubber blocks, to put under each jackpoint. (I had lower whisbone bushes replaced a few months ago.)

So if you haven't got a fine wooden block as mentioned above, and have to change all wheels, (summer to winter and vise versa) I don't suppose you use the flimsy jack from the boot!?
David Hallworth   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 02:50pm

Joined: Apr 16 2010
Member No: #90
Location: Glasgow
If I'm jacking the front of the car I use a trolley jack straight onto the subframe. If I'm jacking the rear of the car I use a wooden block onto the aluminium structure where the tie bars are anchored to.
C6Dave   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 06:21pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Nikolaj wrote ...

So if you haven't got a fine wooden block as mentioned above, and have to change all wheels, (summer to winter and vise versa) I don't suppose you use the flimsy jack from the boot!?

Personally I wouldn't trust that jack unless as a last resort in an emergency roadside wheel change.

The C6 is a big heavy car.
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Nikolaj   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 08:39pm
Joined: Aug 29 2019
Member No: #4047
Location: Roskilde
Thanks, I'm on the right track then, just had a rear wheel of lifting on the aluminium, have to have another look in the front, if I can find some subframe, without removing the undertray.

I also used the subframe on my C5, but that has a smaller undertray.

Yes the C6 is a heavy car, thats also why I'm so puzzled about why Citroen didn't think about making the jackpoints plates, 1 or 2 mm thicker, it might have done the job, and considdering the price from new, cost saving should not be the reason for the flimsy jackpoints we have now.

Absolutely agree about the jack in the boot, it might be ok on a even firm surface, but thats never the case, when you need it for emergency roadside wheel change.
Tjensen   
Tue Jan 21 2020, 11:10pm
Joined: Jul 17 2012
Member No: #954
Location: Bergen
I use a trolley jack and a relative soft rubber plate. Works well. But at some garage they flattened one jackpoint and I need to do something get it right again.
 

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