Login   
C6owners :: Forums :: C6 Support :: The Garage

Timing belt change, what else to do whilst she's opened up?

Home   Forum Rules    Forum Help  Conversion Tools
   
Please Register to enjoy additional Member Benefits
Top Thanked Forum Posts: Today | Week | Month | Year | All time | Most Thanks Given: To member | By user
Author Post
carlosbeneto   
Wed Feb 14 2018, 07:29pm
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
Evening all! I'm in the planning stages of a DIY timing belt replacement (2 years overdue! ). Apart from the obvious water pump, tensioners etc, what else would you recommend I replace once I'm in there?

I'm thinking the following:
-Accessory belt,
-I believe there's a coolant pipe that tends to rust? (I'm new to the forum and C6 ownership so apologies if this has been discussed to death). Would this be a good time to replace it? Part numbers?
-Hydraulic pump (does it even have a belt for this? haven't looked closely but I think there's a belt for this!)

Has anyone done this DIY? I've seen the guide in the tech documents which is invaluable! I'll be getting all the special tools to make the job easier.

Do you know if I'll need Lexia at all? I can't see why I would but the battery will be disconnected for the duration, will it shout at me upon restart?

Any tips or information welcome.

Thanks!
Hattershaun   
Wed Feb 14 2018, 09:06pm
Joined: Dec 19 2010
Member No: #320
Location: Hatfield
I'm assuming you have a 2.7HDi engine.
Whilst I've not laid spanners on a car and got my hands dirty doing a cambelt job, I have watched many jobs being carried out and discussed with the mechanic doing the job.
The main camshaft timing belt runs on the off-side end of the engine, comprising belt, tensioner & 2 idlers.
At the same end of the engine the auxiliary belt runs; alternator, air con compressor, water pump. Check water pump for leaks and wear in the bearing, but doesn’t always need changing. Makes sense to have one on hand whilst doing the job.

Also at this end of the engine is the thermostat housing, a known weak component, plastic goes brittle with age and can burst suddenly at any time, dumping all the coolant, so worth changing as a precaution.

The metal coolant pipe that rusts goes round the other end of the engine, near-side, up in the wheel arch. Either check, clean & protect with paint or replace fully (8-10hour job) or cut out the rusty bit and replace with heavy duty reinforced flexible rubber hose and jubilee clips (1hour).

The other end of the engine has another cambelt running the high pressure diesel pump, comprising a belt and a tensioner. This is not timed. Often this belt is cracked and aged.





2 User said Thank You to Hattershaun for this Post :
 FraserG (14 Feb : 21:30) , cruiserphil (15 Feb : 09:48)
carlosbeneto   
Thu Feb 15 2018, 08:56am
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
Thanks for this! Do we have guides on the HP pump and the coolant line? Haven't had a chance to look at them yet but it would make sense to do them (I don't think they've ever been touched).

Dave-Retired   
Thu Feb 15 2018, 09:39am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
Also take a look at the swirl valve vacum pipes as they go brittle with heat/age - Click Here -
Website
1 User said Thank You to Dave-Retired for this Post :
 321dave (16 Feb : 10:17)
MGmike   
Thu Feb 15 2018, 12:40pm
Joined: May 21 2017
Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry
you'll probably break them when you re/move the sensor on the timing chain cover.

As well as the thermostat housing consider changing the water inlet as well. Again it's plastic and does deteriorate but probably doesn't fail as often as the stat housing.

I've done the job DIY but removed the engine to change the gearbox which made access much easier.

Mine also had an oil leak from a cam seal and changing as a preventative measure might be worth considering.
2 User said Thank You to MGmike for this Post :
 cruiserphil (15 Feb : 15:52) , 321dave (16 Feb : 10:17)
machsantos   
Thu Feb 15 2018, 09:50pm
Joined: Apr 17 2017
Member No: #3108
Location: Aveiro
A little advice (from my experience with this car), take a look at the accessories tensioner. It's fragile and could need replacement.
Also check very carefully if the tensioner has been tighten with only 25Nm or few more!!
Other thing you may want to check is the oil pressure (through) electronic diagnostics of course. These oil pumps are actually weak and most times (trust me) it is advisable to exchange oil pump while you change timing kit.
Cheers
3 User said Thank You to machsantos for this Post :
 cruiserphil (16 Feb : 08:40) , 321dave (16 Feb : 10:17) , carlosbeneto (16 Feb : 18:38)
carlosbeneto   
Fri Feb 16 2018, 06:40pm
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
Thank you so much for all the input! Sounds like I'll have to be extremely gentle with it to not break anything. Let's hope it goes well! I'll probably do the accessory side of things too, seems worth it.

I'll report back!

Cheers
carlosbeneto   
Mon Feb 19 2018, 12:12pm
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
I continue to look for the parts for this job. Had a quote for everything, including oil pump, water pump etc and it seems like a lot! I think I'll be going with EuroCarParts for the timing belt itself + rollers. However, they list 2 different items:


- Click Here -

- Click Here -

(I can't seem to get the links to work correctly, they seem to point to the same place! Essentially the first link shows the same as the second minus one tensioner and the shorter belt)

The first one seems to be correct judging by the guide in the technical section but maybe I'm missing something obvious. The second kit seems to include an additional tensioner and a second, shorter belt. Anyone shed any light on this?

Also, I'm really new to the forum so this has probably been asked before but is there anywhere where you guys default to for parts? I don't think ECP carries some of the stuff (oil pump, coolant tanks etc).

Cheers!
MGmike   
Mon Feb 19 2018, 05:00pm
Joined: May 21 2017
Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry
The second shorter belt is for the fuel pump. This is located on the other side of the engine to the main cam belt. Quite tricky to get to with all the pluming in the way! Remove the engine cover and look around/under/behind the fuel filter and you should find it.

Yes you need to replace it at the same time...
eke   
Mon Feb 19 2018, 05:23pm
Joined: Sep 16 2011
Member No: #624
Location: Oulu
The other belt is for injection pump, if I remember correctly. I suggest that you change that also, when doing the job.

I used this timing belt set three years ago, when it was time to change it to my car: - Click Here -

SKF is well known brand.
carlosbeneto   
Tue Feb 20 2018, 02:45pm
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
Thanks for all the input everyone. I've ordered most of the stuff including tensioners etc. Quick question regarding some tools, I already have a kit that includes the pegs for locking the camshafts etc, however I can't seem to find the bracket for attaching the engine to the hoist, does anyone have one of these? 0194P is the part number.

They also specify 0194T which is a set of blanking plugs, I'll probably just wing it with that one!
bargi   
Tue Feb 20 2018, 10:30pm
Joined: Apr 10 2016
Member No: #2590
Location: London
not sure how hard it is to do with engine in, but worth look at the engine mounts to see if they're perished.
321dave   
Wed Feb 21 2018, 01:59pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
bargi wrote ...

not sure how hard it is to do with engine in, but worth look at the engine mounts to see if they're perished.



Its possible to do, but you will need to remove one engine mount alright. Good time to replace that mount at least. €60 for a new one.

vaho   
Wed Feb 21 2018, 02:38pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Yes, this mount needs to be removed anyway but it is the one mount that least likely needs replacement.
No need to remove other mounts and the belt removal does not help to get to them at all.
carlosbeneto   
Wed Feb 21 2018, 04:09pm
Joined: Feb 05 2018
Member No: #3425
Location: Newbury, Berkshire
Cheers for the pictures! I'll definitely be removing the engine mount and assessing if it needs replacing (always easy to do in the future). I'll probably be starting tomorrow as I now have all the parts.

I've just discovered what looks like an LDS leak somewhere in the front left strut too It's becoming an expensive proposition to get this car back up to speed!
Go to page       >>   

Jump:     Back to top

User Colour Key:
Head Administrator, Administrator, C6 owner, Technical Expert, C6 Premier Discount Club