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Fuel primer bulb - mouse outrage |
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sotweedfactor
 
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  Member No: #2185
Location: Surrey |
Anyone got a spare one of these? Or know a potential supplier or even a part number? The car had lain idle for 3 months awaiting a new battery. I fitted a lovely new Varta Silver E38 a couple of days back. The engine fired up immediately... and then died after about 30 seconds. A quick glance under the bonnet quickly revealed the cause! Entirely unprovoked vandalism - presumably wreaked by those of a rodent persuasion..  |
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C6Dave
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    Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Well after checking the parts diagrams on Air and Fuel supply I can't find any sign of anything that looks remotely like that shown in your picture I'm afraid...... | ||
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MGmike
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  Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
If you don't know already, that's the fuel system hand primer. Same as fitted to 07 on C5's I think. Lots of universal ones available on eBay but you'll need to check the pipe size and hunt for the correct angled inlet fitting. You could also check out any breakers perhaps? |
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Hattershaun
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 Member No: #320
Location: Bedfordshire, UK |
I found part number 1579LT. It's the dual fuel piping from tank and fuel cooler to the fuel filter, which incorporates the bulb primer. The bulb primer is tiny in the diagram, so easy to not notice it. UK cost is £92 + VAT. In Citroen Service it's in Air & Fuel Supply, then section 'Securing Piping Fuel Filter'. |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Hattershaun wrote ... I found part number 1579LT. It's the dual fuel piping from tank and fuel cooler to the fuel filter, which incorporates the bulb primer. The bulb primer is tiny in the diagram, so easy to not notice it. UK cost is £92 + VAT. In Citroen Service it's in Air & Fuel Supply, then section 'Securing Piping Fuel Filter'. So it's the whole pipe assembly, which is why I missed it (I did look in all the files) and why it costs so much. I'd go looking for a generic priming bulb only at that price Shaun as it may be a mission to change the whole pipe....  |
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sotweedfactor
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Member No: #2185
Location: Surrey |
Thanks, Dave, Mike, Shaun. I've bought a couple of the 'universal' ones off eBay just to have a good look at them. As Mike remarks, the angle of inlet/outlet is significant. The required inlet is at a 45 angle. My C5 is, indeed, fitted with exactly what I need - but I won't be 'borrowing' it from there! There are breakers advertising C5 parts on eBay. The fuel hoses are a very firm fit onto the inlet/outlet nipples: I'll need to wait for slightly warmer weather and then treat the whole area to some heating to try and make things more flexible. Strictly speaking I only need to replace the rubber 'bladder' - if that can easily be detached from it's connectors at each end. |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
sotweedfactor wrote ... Strictly speaking I only need to replace the rubber 'bladder' - if that can easily be detached from it's connectors at each end. Unless your changing the fuel filter do you actually need one? Can you not just plug/blank the pipe, or is there air in the circuit now and the car won't start? |
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sotweedfactor
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Member No: #2185
Location: Surrey |
The situation is now resolved, so a bit of a wrap-up:- As pointed out earlier in the thread, the replacement Citroen part is 1597LT (this is a 2.2 HDi that’s I’m writing about). This is the entire fuel line from tank at rear underside of car to fuel filter in the engine bay. The primer pump is a small part of this assemblage. Expensive and not easy to fit – especially when the car is beached, on its haunches on your drive. So I quickly concluded that I needed only to replace the ‘bladder’ in some fashion. The rubber of the bladder is fitted at each end to a non-return valve. This is a very tight union onto barbs in the plastic housings of the valves. The feed pipes are 8mm internal diameter and are likewise pressed very tightly over barbed ridges on the valves. The tight nature of these barbed connections is problematic as they are pretty damn unwilling to be separated. The ‘universal’ primer pumps, easily available of eBay, are not really suitable. Their neck at each end is typically narrower than the original, so will not fit onto the valves. In the end, I decided to cut the damaged bladder off using a very sharp modelling scalpel. It’s important not to damage the barbs in the valve housings as you do this. I lightly scored the bladder at each neck and tore it apart from the valve housings. The bladder is made of a thick outer rubber with a very thin interior skin.  From eBay I purchased a used item which came with a length of feed pipe at each end. £18.00. This was from a C5 2.0 HDi. I suspect a number of contemporary HDi engines all have the same bladder part. I needed to separate the bladder from the valves at each end. I found that, with a valve held firmly in a vice and with a lot of heat from a hairdryer, the bladder could be gently twisted off and separated. Need to be careful here, since the bladder is fairly delicate and too much twisting might damage it. From there, it was relatively easy to fit the bladder back onto the car. The barbs on the valves do not work against you when fitting bladder to valve. Even so, it was quite difficulty to get both ends fully seated without excessive pressure or twisting of the bladder. The primer pump had to be squeezed 30-40 times before fuel appeared. The starter had to be run for about 8 long turns before the engine fired. Further priming was needed the second time that the engine needed to be started. After that, no problem. The car has now done more than 100 miles and all seems OK – no leakage. ================================================================================ A certain amount of whacky C6 stupidity/frustration attended this whole episode, so, for the record… The whole business started after the car had lain dormant on the drive for several months, during which time it became apparent that a new battery was desirable. With new battery in place, I’d started the car (great joy) and had driven it a small distance just to a point on our driveway where it cleverly blocked all access from every direction. Then the engine died; I looked under the bonnet and discovered the mousey damage to the fuel supply. I had to move the car, so I figured that the new battery should be strong enough to reverse the car on the starter a few yards. I wound down the drivers window to look out, backwards, engaged reverse and applied the starter. The car moved backwards as expected – though without any power steering available (I guess the steering pump does not run when the starter is taking a lot of current). Having got it back to a satisfactory position, I tried to raise the drivers window. Nothing happened. The centre console told me that the vehicle was in Economy Mode - through heavy use of the battery and it seems that windows are disabled in that mode. It’s the middle of winter with heavy rain forecast; the car is on the drive, engine dead, with the drivers window wide open. I ran through a battery disconnect/reset procedure; even recharged it.. No joy – still in Economy Mode. I Googled and found that the only way Economy Mode is lifted is through starting the engine.. but the engine’s fuel supply had been destroyed. So the car spent a week or more covered in Clingfilm whilst the primer pump was resurrected. Once I’d got the engine running again, the electric windows worked. Another C6 epic, kinda sorted – at least the car is running again now. |
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C6Dave
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Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Very frustrating for you indeed. | ||
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jamescarruthers
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 Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Well done. Also, every time I've read the updates on this thread "mouse outrage" has made me chuckle! |
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MGmike
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Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry |
Yep, exactly the repair I was expecting you to do but I had thought one of the bay ones would have been usable. As for the Eco mode... If you have lexia you can select "showroom" mode and the windows will work even if the engine hasn't started for a while. I found that info on here after two weeks of car living outside in the rain with two windows open! |
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Dan595
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 Member No: #299
Location: Wiltshire |
Re: Economy mode. I'm pretty sure that the windows will close when you hold the lock button down (long press) when locking the car with the remote. | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
That's correct, if the windows are down in the summer and I'm parking, I usually do a long press of the lock button and then lock the car itself. Learned that trick on the first C5 I had which incidentally closed the sun roof as well as the windows at the same time. Still love the comfort of that car, even if it really didn't look like a C6. But they are close in other practical ways 
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sotweedfactor
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Member No: #2185
Location: Surrey |
Oh, I forgot to mention another bit of chaos from this story:- When I'd repaired the fuel supply and got the engine running, and closed the window, I was so pleased that I momentarily lost possession of my senses. I thought I'd leave the engine running for a while to clear any air from the supply whilst I typed up some notes. When I came back the engine was still running but the car had decided to self-lock. This was a rather vexatious problem since I only have one key - and that was in the ignition.  I had visions of the car just sitting there, idling for hours/days/weeks, until it finally ran out of fuel. Reader, you may be surprised, but there are still a few unsorted imperfections with this car... and whilst 3 doors had locked, the front passenger door had failed to do so and the day was saved. Sometimes, just sometimes, I get a feeling of utter emotional exhaustion in my relationship with the otherwise-adorable C6. Eric.
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