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Rear wheel bearing replacement

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vaho   
Mon Mar 27 2017, 09:15am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Hi all.

It is not a difficult job and there are some topics about it as well but since there are no pictures, I thought it might be helpful.

What you need:
1. 13 mm socket
2. torx T55 socket
3. torx T30 socket
4. 40 mm 3/4 socket
5. three leg pulley
6. 10 mm socket

What´s in the box:





First put the car in the highest positsion and remove the cap of the LDS tank. Remove the wheel, then two 13 mm bolts from the brake caliper, the brake caliper and two T55 bolts from the caliper holder and the holder:








Then remove two T30 bolts that are holding the brake disc on and remove the disc:




Next remove the dust cap (no need to preserve it since the new cap is in the box) and 40 mm nut. You may have to use some hammering on the nut if there is a safety notch:





Then install the pulley and start pulling. Put something in the hole of the shaft, I used torx T55 socket.





The inside/back part of the bearing remains in place. Remove the protective metal plate which is attached with three 10 mm screws. Use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to hit the back part of the bearing a bit outward so the pulley can be attached (the sealing comes right off). If you have a pulley with thinner legs It may be possible to attach it right away.






Finally clean it all up and put the new bearing along with the nut and cap in place. Ideally it should be pushed in but I didn´t had any tools for that. I just hammered it in until the nut could be attached and then just pushed it in with screwing the nut. For hammering I used 40 mm socket which I put inside of the bearing and then hit it with the hammer:



The other side which I did with the same method (hammering) is still good after 6 months.
Hope It was helpful
Vaho
9 User said Thank You to vaho for this Post :
 gmerry (27 March 2017) , 321dave (28 March 2017) , e3steve (28 March 2017) , nouveaucitroenist (29 March 2017) , keithc (29 March 2017) , eke (30 March 2017) , Tjensen (05 September 2017) , sotweedfactor (10 September 2017) , cruiserphil (27 September 2017)
Cisco   
Mon Mar 27 2017, 12:47pm
Joined: Sep 10 2013
Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow
Another great tutorial Vaho

Many thanks,

Frank
vaho   
Tue Mar 28 2017, 09:18am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Thank you. One more thing - as seen there is no need to remove the ABS-sensor albeit the official instruction indicates it´s removal. The sensor rearly comes off in one piece so it is better to leave it alone and just be a little bit more careful.
321dave   
Tue Mar 28 2017, 11:28am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
vaho wrote ...

Thank you. One more thing - as seen there is no need to remove the ABS-sensor albeit the official instruction indicates it´s removal. The sensor rearly comes off in one piece so it is better to leave it alone and just be a little bit more careful.


Hi Vaho, thanks for the great repair/Photos to the forum. I have a hairline crack in one of my rear ABS hub rings. Im wondering if that might be the reason to replace the hub I wonder. Besides the continual ABS sensor replacements that we all are used to at one time or another. I wonder is that small crack enough to upset the rear ABS sensor intermittently ?

travlician   
Tue Mar 28 2017, 01:05pm
Joined: Jan 22 2011
Member No: #350
Location: Paradera
Rear bearing failure can lead to debris interfering with proper ABS sensor operation. So if not removed, at least make sure all debris is cleaned from the sensor.
vaho   
Tue Mar 28 2017, 01:07pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Hi Dave. The ABS hub ring has magnetic stripes with predetermined and exact distances from each other. If there is a crack in the middle of the stripes then the distance between these two stripes is hairline width bigger. Dont know for sure if that is enough to cause disturbances, but if there is a crack, it is best to eliminate that possibility and replace it. That is my opinion.
321dave   
Tue Mar 28 2017, 01:50pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Vaho, I was starting to suspect the hairline crack as well (noticed the crack after cleaning the ring during a new sensor change and new pads and brake service, i was receiving a lexia warnings for the sensor as well. But it was still present after installing the new sensor. I think its very possible that might be the error source now. Vaho did you receive a new ABS ring with the new Hub as standard? Many thanks travlician as well. I did fine alot of mud and general grime to remove before a noticed the very small crack, its an area that needs a good clean up during a brake service for sure.
vaho   
Wed Mar 29 2017, 06:06am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Yes the ring comes attached to the wheel hub but it sells separately also. To change it you have to remove the bearing and although it is possible to put the same bearing back, I would recommend to replace the whole hub. The ring separately costs some 15-35 euros (depending on manufacturer) and the Meyle wheel bearing with the ring attached costed me 53 euros, so there is no big price difference and the work is the same.
321dave   
Wed Mar 29 2017, 07:19am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Thanks Vaho, I was thinking if the price was close i would change the rears. I have new front hubs from about 18000mls, so not a bad idea to renew them along with sorting the ABS sensor issue at the same time. Many thanks again.
keithc   
Wed Mar 29 2017, 10:03am
Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare
You couldn't have put this up at a better time Vaho! I replaced a sticking caliper on mine last Sat on the rear passenger side and didn't one of the wheel nuts shear when I tried to take the wheel off. I've never had the rear wheels off since I bought the car a year ago and going by the invoices I got with the car it could be a few years since they were last off. So something to be mindful of too, to regularly check wheel nuts. So I need to replace the hub to have all 5 wheel nuts fitted again.
1 User said Thank You to keithc for this Post :
 321dave (12 August 2017)
321dave   
Mon Aug 14 2017, 11:55am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Vaho, just checking rear hub prices today and I'm amazed the prices vary so much. Did you purchase a Meryle bearing kit for original unit on your C6? Or was that the price of the full hub with ABS ring attached? Reason for asking is I've checked the prices today as I'm going to replace the rear hubs fully and the Meryle hub is currently about €133 each. The SKF hubs are about €91 each. Would the Meryle be the best quality in today's market I wonder, I'm thinking the bearing might be infact a SKF bearing in the Meryle? Is my thinking correct I wonder?

Dave
vaho   
Mon Aug 14 2017, 12:47pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Hi Dave. It was the full hub with ABS ring. I bought it directly from estonian e-shop and it is still available for the price of 58,24 euros:
- Click Here -

I think they do not post to GB or Ireland though.

I found a Febi (as good as Meyle I think) from Germany for 59,98 euros:
- Click Here -

And SKF from the same site for 62,81 euros:
- Click Here -

So it seems that the prices are still in the same range as they were when I bought it.

Your thinking about the SKF in Meyle´s box may well be correct as it is often the case but I can not confirm that. Nevertheless Meyle, SKF or Febi-Bilstein are all equally good I think.
321dave   
Mon Aug 14 2017, 01:14pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
vaho wrote ...

Hi Dave. It was the full hub with ABS ring. I bought it directly from estonian e-shop and it is still available for the price of 58,24 euros:
- Click Here -

I think they do not post to GB or Ireland though.

I found a Febi (as good as Meyle I think) from Germany for 59,98 euros:
- Click Here -



And SKF from the same site for 62,81 euros:
- Click Here -

So it seems that the prices are still in the same range as they were when I bought it.


Your thinking about the SKF in Meyle´s box may well be correct as it is often the case but I can not confirm that. Nevertheless Meyle, SKF or Febi-Bilstein are all equally good I think.




Hi Vaho, brilliant, thanks very much for the links and prices. It seem the prices here are getting very expensive. Pity, I think I'll go with idir the SKF or Febi as the prices are better. Thanks again and many thanks for the great photos and write ups! I'll put up a few photos as well when I get around to replacing the hubs soon. Dave.
keithc   
Tue Sep 05 2017, 10:20am
Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare
Thanks to crusierphil for providing me with the tools to do the job I tackled my hub over the weekend. It's as exactly as vaho describes and easy enough to take the old one off.

However for me (I used a GSF hub kit) when I put the new one onto the shaft the internal races came loose (rear and front - where the bolt tightens against.) At the time I thought nothing of it, put it all together and used a wooden block to get it in far enough that the nut would go on. I tightened everything to the correct spec but now I have a wheel that moves a mm or two. No shake driving the car but I'm not happy leaving it like that.

Is it a faulty hub kit (or a cheap one?) and would I be better putting a new one on instead of taking the GSF one off and reapplying? Am I doing right to put the new bearing onto the shaft and hammering in on with a timber piece across it and hitting the timber block until the hub is on enough that I can get the nut on and push it on the rest of the way by tightening the nut?
1 User said Thank You to keithc for this Post :
 cruiserphil (27 September 2017)
vaho   
Tue Sep 05 2017, 12:25pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
If you use hammering you have to hit against inside part of the bearing where the nut touches it. If I understood correctly you put a piece of wood across it which means you hit the outside part of the bearing. That way you probably did some damage. You can use the 40 mm socket with what you unscrewed the nut, it fits nicely inside the bearing against the inside part of it. Or a piece of wood that fits inside of the bearing.

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