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New (to me): GK07 UKR C6 3.0 V6 ES9, Petrol & LPG |
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jamescarruthers
 
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   Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Hello everyone, I've been a member on here for years but never posted as I only acquired a C6 a few months ago. I've just came from a 1990 XM 2.1 SED and have had a few BX's before that: two Mk. 1's and a Mk. 2. I found forums for those cars and found them invaluable so that's why I am here. I always wanted an LPG petrol C6 so when I saw this one I had to have it. It has been to B&L Autos for a check over and ABS sensor change and they found a fair bit wrong elsewhere but it all got fixed and I am very happy with the car which has done 3500 trouble miles since then. Oh, and there was a brief fault with the LPG system but that was an easy valve swap. Basically, the electrically operated shut-off valve decided to stick shut. I should have introduced myself earlier, but wanted to get some good pictures of the car to go with my first post. Unfortunately, I still haven't managed to align clean car, good weather and the effort required to take the pictures. So I have four questions: 1) Where can I find out how to replace the cambelt? It is getting done this week but my my friend in the village who is an ace mechanic. I can find loads out about the diesels on here but not the petrol engined ones. I've found a pdf on how to do the ES9 on a 406 which has made me confident that it isn't too difficult. However, when mounted in the C6, is it still as easy? 2) Has anyone heard of my car before? It is GK07 UKR and has been in York and Macclesfield. 3) The ride is pretty good but maybe a little hard and occasionally pitchy. After nearly 10 years, surely I should expect to have the spheres re-gassed (at Pleiades) or replaced (I hear you can get the correct laminated type from somewhere in Spain). Also, how to I persuade the Citroen dealer to check and install the latest suspension software? 4) I see that this automatic gearbox when installed in other cars can have its oil flushed by popping a pipe off the cooler. This way you can start the engine, squirt a litre out, switch off, top-up, and repeat until the oil out is red. I've searched on here but haven't seen that documented. How does access look for this job? Has anyone tried it? My plan is to buy a 20L drum of Mobil 3309 and do it myself. So, that's enough for the first post. Hope to get involved a bit and to take the C6 to the Citroen event at Burleigh which isn't too far away and meet some of you there. |
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Hattershaun
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 Member No: #320
Location: Bedfordshire, UK |
Hi James, A warm welcome. I had a petrol C6 for a year, recently sold to another forum member. I have another C6 too, a diesel one. B.L.Autos work on my cars and I saw your car when it was at their workshop. The ESJ9 engine is used in many cars, Citroens C6, C5, (and in XM, Xantia, but without variable valve timing), Peugeots 607, 407, 406 and Renaults Avantime, Laguna, Espace. So, information on the Cambelt should be fairly easy to find. I know of three petrol C6, all Storm Grey with black leather, yours, my old one and one owned by a friend who's also a B.L.Autos customer, that we're all built at the same time, June 2006. The usual way to change gearbox oil, is to carry out several partial changes, by draining oil from the gearbox sump plug, approx 3 litres (there's another 3-4 litres held in the torque converter that you can't easily get out), refill with 3 litres, drive for a bit, then repeat. However, there's a few more details to doing it properly. Use of the Lexia diagnostic computer to reset the gearbox oil counter. Oil should be at a specific temperature when checking the level, checked with Lexia ( the drain plug is in two parts, to enable the oil level to be corrected). I'm sure there's a detailed procedure in the archive files. Suspension wise, you might like to check the sphere pressures as a good starting point, B.L.Autos have a gauge test rig, spheres need to be removed from the car to do this. Spheres can lose gas pressure slowly over time, at 10 years old they may have degraded slightly. C6 does ride differently to the XM, I think the variable damping is responsible for this, and can make the car feel inconsistent in behaviour. Rear end pitching up/down is sign of some loss of sphere gas pressure, but can also be noticed when you first start on a journey and the computer sets the damping to a soft setting at slower speeds; thereafter the ECU adjusts damping based on many factors including how you drive I find that engaging the sport mode helps to reduce pitching, especially if carrying rear seat passengers or a boot full of luggage. Keep enjoying your C6. |
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Trainman
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  Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham |
James, I'll have a look this afternoon and try and find what you're looking for, Hopefully should get something posted tonight or tomorrow at the latest. I might also be able to throw some light on the history....... Oh and  to C6 ownership 
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Trainman
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Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham |
I've done some digging, the only reference I can find is from 21st October 2011 when it was seen for sale at Lovebug in Gloucester for £7995 with 65,000 on the clock. I've had a look at the manual, and it's not very good, but I'll let you have what I have. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi James, and welcome to the forum. 4) I see that this automatic gearbox when installed in other cars can have its oil flushed by popping a pipe off the cooler. This way you can start the engine, squirt a litre out, switch off, top-up, and repeat until the oil out is red. I've searched on here but haven't seen that documented. How does access look for this job? Has anyone tried it? My plan is to buy a 20L drum of Mobil 3309 and do it myself. On the diesels, the AW transmission cooler is mounted on the transmission and the radiator coolant runs to and from the cooler. If you pop off one of the hoses, you will just get a facefull of ethylene glycol mixture. I would bet 99 to 1 that the ES9 is cooled the same way as the diesels in the Citroen C6 installation (you can check in the mechanics guide). But you are correct in some degree because other manufacturers use a coil within the radiator and pump the oil to/from that remote cooler. However, have a look at one of e3steve's posts. He has documented a method whereby the drain weir plug is removed, and the engine then started and run for say 30 secs (check his post) and during this time, the transmission pump empties the torque converter. The advantage is you get more than 2.7 litres per drain (out of the 7 litre capacity). Anyway have a read of that post. Make sure you know what you are doing though and measure all volumes drained and added. regards |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Cheers gmerry. That's kind of put a dampner on my idea but still left me with hope that I can get the torque converter flushed along with the whole box. I'll investigate the threads and try and have a look on the car when I get it back from its timing belt job next week. It's all just theoretical in my head at the minute! |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi James, it's not too hard or long winded to do two or three back to back partial changes: in between you drive the car a few miles or even just start the engine and spin the shafts (wheels off) to circulate the oil through the auto including the torque transmission. But, you will need to measure the transmission oil temperature before you set the level. regards |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Hello, sorry for the late reply I forgot to post here as people have kindly PM'd and e-mailed me with information on the cambelt change. This is all very useful and greatly appreciated. So Shaun, that was you that I met at B&L Autos. Nice to have met you and thanks for the advice. Timing belt is slightly delayed. All parts, new coolant and oil are at the garage, I'm just waiting for the nod to pop in when they have space. Should be soon. |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Small update: I bought all the parts from Mister-Auto but my mate in the village decided it looked too complicated. I am trying to get the fixed price servicing timing belt offer done at Marshall's Citroen, Cambridge. I think that they have to speak to head office about the price. I've seen on here that Citroen have contributed a lot to the bill in the past for fixed price servicing. I also have Duxford Citroen looking into it (and I'd rather deal with them than Marshall's) but they can't do it for a month. If not, B&L Autos will definitely get the work, I'm just trying to get this nearly half price offer which sounds pretty good. I'll report back on how Marhsall's get on with a C6. |
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robingc33
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  Member No: #2303
Location: NW Essex |
Duxford changed mine on a fixed price deal and I recommend them. Robin |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Good to know Robin. Marshall's are being particularly useless and I shan't be using them again. I am in the process of reporting them to the motoring ombudsman. I would like Duxford to do it and they were helpful on the phone but the correct person is off until Thursday. It's looking rather like B & L will get the work. And to be honest they deserve it after their great service last time. The nice little touch was that the orange lights were off around the car and they took the time to replace them without being asked. I only realised when I got home. |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Well, it is approaching a year since I've had the C6. Apart from the initial big bill when I had everything fixed at B&L the car has bee absolutely faultless and 100% reliable for a whole year of being used a lot. I've put around 12000 miles on the car and only had to put new front brake pads in it and have the spheres regassed. So much for unreliable big Citroens! I'm really really impressed with it. |
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bargi
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 Member No: #2590
Location: London |
A fellow Petrol  Enjoy! |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
C6 is still utterly magnificent and has had its yearly major service and MOT at B&L last month. Needed rear brakes freeing off-- it now stops more gracefully as it was previously pretty front biased on its brakes. Tyres to be replaced soon on the rear. However, it has had two mishaps in a month. It got clobbered in a car park resulting in scratches and scuffs in probably only a few square inches. Unfortunately, this surface area included the light, wing, bumper and bonnet. I've had it all fixed on the other drivers insurance, including new light as the high beam stopped working. Coming out of the bodyshop, it started running on five cylinders. After talking with B&L, it is unwise to drive it like this as the fuel will still be injected, then make its way to the cat and cook it, possibly setting on fire. Thankfully I only nursed it home about 5 miles at most. As I write this, I am at home waiting for the RAC to come and take a look and see which coil it is, if that is indeed the problem. I might change this at home if it is easy enough to get to and they tell me which one is dead. Hoping they have a coil-on-plug tester in the van. Would I be thinking that three coils will be easy to access and three difficult? I've never has a car with coils on each plug but I am guessing that it isn't much harder than changing a plug lead? Any insight? |
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jamescarruthers
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Member No: #1548
Location: Cambridge |
Coil on No. 3 had died. Citroen dealer, 5 mins away, had one in stock for £35 (P/N: 597094). Back to full working order. I assume the other five will soon follow, presumably being the originals and having done the same mileage? |
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