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Fluid leak from above exhaust manifold on the front head.

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Petrolhead   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 04:31pm
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Hi,

My 2.7 has been loosing fluid for a few weeks now with the rate increasing.

Turns out it is now dripping off the front exhaust header where it joins the cylinder head. Probably the middle cylinder. It doesn't drip while its running because I guess it evaporates first, hence making it tricky to find.

Are there any obvious failures above the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine - I can't see anything from above - I'll try and get it on a ramp on Friday.

Thanks

Chris
321dave   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 06:13pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Chris, is it a coolant leak? Can you see the fluid colour? Or is there a diesel smell?
Petrolhead   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 06:48pm
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Hi,

It is for sure coolant, got it in my hair while under the car.

So certainly just coolant.

Chris
Petrolhead   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 07:36pm
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Just been out again and had another look.

I think actually it is dripping from the collector input into the engine which would make sense.

Someone posted about changing that - it's behind the alternator - but I've not managed to find the post.

(whilst refilling and bleeding air at the top of the radiator, the qtr turn screw, broke - does anyone know of a source or a sensible workaround)
321dave   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 10:04pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Chris, I think your referring to the inlet tank. I've had a bad leak as well, and I'm guessing half the forum has experienced the lovely inlet tank failure at this stage. Its a weak plastic tank that as you have said attaches to the front of the engine. Its about £40 and when you have experienced the job once it's not to bad, you just need to remove the air-con unit and alternator to get up to it. or any decent garage should be able to do it for you quickly. You just need the part: 1336Y2 inlet tank.
321dave   
Wed Nov 30 2016, 10:27pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
[quote]
Hi Chris, I think your referring to the inlet tank. I've had a bad leak as well, and I'm guessing half the forum has experienced the lovely inlet tank failure at this stage. Its a weak plastic tank that as you have said attaches to the front of the engine. Its about £40 and when you have experienced the job once it's not to bad, you just need to remove the air-con unit and alternator to get up to it. or any decent garage should be able to do it for you quickly. You just need the part: 1336Y2 inlet tank.


Cisco   
Thu Dec 01 2016, 12:13am
Joined: Sep 10 2013
Member No: #1429
Location: Glasgow
Hi Chris,

This thread has a link to Phil's tutorial to replace the inlet tank together with some relevant associated info.

- Click Here -

I also broke a radiator bleed screw but managed to find a second hand one. I couldn't find a resource selling a new one without a radiator attached

All the best,

Frank
Petrolhead   
Thu Dec 01 2016, 04:46pm
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Hi All,

Thank you for the great information. Took me a little while to find the link so - Click Here - in case someone finds this. The tutorial really is useful and gives confidence that nothing unexpected will be found.

So the million dollar question.

I have access to a lift but people are talking of 10 hours which is quite a lot of time - on the other hand 10 hours in a dealer is a lot of money. Is it really 10 hours?

How long might I expect a non-citroen specialist (but works a lot on TDV Landrovers) to take doing the job.

Thanks again,

Chris
321dave   
Thu Dec 01 2016, 08:38pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Chris, I'm probably slow, but with the help of a lift it would be that bit easier again. I'd say 2hrs for me if I was doing it again. The speed trick, is to hammer the bolts on the alternator and air-con unit as per the download instructions, and print of Phil tutorial and give it to the land rover garage. They know the 2.7 diesels that's for sure!
vaho   
Fri Dec 02 2016, 08:18am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
I let the dealer change the thing on my Peugeot 607 2.7HDI. It took them two and a half hours. As they work with timetables provided by the manufacturer, they charged me for two hours, this is the time prescribed. The procedure is the same with Citroen.
Petrolhead   
Sat Dec 03 2016, 09:22am
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Citroen consider it a 3 hour job - which at my local dealer makes it a £380.70 event.

I shall have a go myself - what could possibly go wrong!
cruiserphil   
Sat Dec 03 2016, 07:06pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Just follow the guides in the link. Remember you don't have to disconnect the air con hoses from the compressor. There's enough length to hang it under the car clear of where your working.

Best of luck,

Phil C.
Petrolhead   
Sun Dec 11 2016, 09:37pm
Joined: May 24 2010
Member No: #122
Location: Bristol
Well closer to 10 hours than 3, if I did it again I reckon it would take me 5. If you've done this on jacks then I salute you.

It is relatively easy to put stuff back together so if you do this just keep going until you have it all apart then it's easy from there to get it back together.

My notes:

1. I did buy a set of hose clamp pliers which were very valuable.

2. I took the big hose off the outlet with the outlet in place, then pulled the outlet out and removed the small hose. Same procedure putting it back it, insert the hose into the small pipe, fit the tank then place the large pipe on.

3. The hitting the bolts with a hammer thing is a pain - after 9 years and 110K miles the inserts do not slide. For the air-con-compressor I just preserved and hit them off - lots of WD40 lots of hitting. For the alternator I just levered it out of place. Once removed you can place them on a solid surface and give them a proper wack.

4. You do need to remove the tensioner entirely so remove it at the start. I tried not to but the top alternator bolt can't be removed.

5. Grease the tank rubber with vaseline to aid insertion! A professional mechanic not me this - it is water soluble and they use it a lot.

6. I regretted doing it for some of the time - but overall I'd do it again.

7. The water pipe bracket shown in the write up that is on the smaller hose has 2 nuts one you can see in the picture the other you cannot.

8. If you designed a puzzle with difficult to reach bolts then this car would be it, some of them require physical pain to reach and undo. A small 1/4in socket set is useful for some of them.

Thanks Phil for the write up, nice to know I hadn't missed anything.
cruiserphil   
Mon Dec 12 2016, 03:38pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
Well done Chris,

Thanks for the updated tips. I've done the same with the alternator to re-position the slides for mounting. Nice to have it done though and hopefully you'll have forgotten how to do it before you have to tackle it again!

Best regards,

Phil C.
TonyK   
Thu Jun 28 2018, 10:00am
Joined: Jul 09 2017
Member No: #3204
Location: Chippenham
I just replaced my 1336Y2. I took out the radiator and did the top bolt from the front of the engine bay finally getting to use the amusingly titled "Easyview Tradesman inspection camera" that I picked up at a car show (camera on a fibre-optic stick with a light on and separate display.
I got to the bottom 8mm bolt from underneath feeding an 1/4 inch drive in from the front. Didnt touch the aircon pump. 5-6 hours to remove. About an hour to put back together
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