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Power steering pipe question - update

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vaho   
Sat Nov 26 2016, 04:31pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Hi all. As it appears I have a power steering pipe leak, a slow one for now. Looking for the part according to my RPO number 10758, the part is 4014HZ. It costs around 350€. My question is what is the difference with the part 4014X4, because it costs 100€ less?




Installation tips are also welcome, I have read that the subframe must be lowered but... Although it.is in a tight space it can maybe be accessible enough without lowering the subframe?
321dave   
Sat Nov 26 2016, 06:07pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
vaho wrote ...

Hi all. As it appears I have a power steering pipe leak, a slow one for now. Looking for the part according to my RPO number 10758, the part is 4014HZ. It costs around 350€. My question is what is the difference with the part 4014X4, because it costs 100€ less?




Installation tips are also welcome, I have read that the subframe must be lowered but... Although it.is in a tight space it can maybe be accessible enough without lowering the subframe?


Hi Vaho, me to. But it's been like that for a good while. It's weeping a bit.
Hattershaun   
Sun Nov 27 2016, 09:00am
Joined: Dec 19 2010
Member No: #320
Location: Bedfordshire, UK
If you click on the link 'LE-2006’ it takes you to a file of extra information.
Find 4014 X4 on the list and an alternative solution is proposed;
4014 HZ and 4013 76 and 4018 CJ (quantity 2).

So, the original part has been updated, but you need three parts instead.

Now you can compare prices, hopefully the updated solution is less costly.




vaho   
Mon Nov 28 2016, 07:03am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Thank you for the information. It seems though that these three parts are the whole tube assembly with cooling radiator (4013 76) and 2 clips (4018 CJ). All I need is the part No 1 on the scheme. Maybe X4 is replaced with HZ but it is available though on the teile-profis.de site with the price of 256€ as opposed to the HZ with the price of 356€. Who knows and since it is winter and temperatures are freezing, I can not do anything by myself before spring, I will just keep topping up LDS for now and see. The leak is not severe, some drops on the ground.

vaho   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 08:32am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
So, the spring is here and I tried to replace the tube. Could not do it because the bolt on the steering rack. Used torx T30 instead of correct T40 and rounded the hole. Then turned to dealership. All good and well, time 5 hours but in the end when they attached the undertray it happened... The original fastening clips were partially missing and somebody had fastened the undertray with screws. One screw was turned into the pipe which was the reason for the leak in the first place. Unfortunately the mechanic put the screw back in its original place and punctured the new pipe also, this time even more severe, instead of a minor leak, the oil poured out. If there is a silver lining, it was a low pressure pipe and they managed to repair it. They offered to order a new pipe no cost to me, but I agreed to reparing it because I caused the extra time to unscrew the rounded bolt and in the end they didn´t charge me for that.
So I ended up with the cost of the new pipe 400 euros + replacement costs 200 euros when, if I had known the real reason of the leak, I could probably repair it myself for minuscule amount of money. Goddamn germans....
Here is the old pipe and the puncture:



This is the place where the screw was and some more pictures:








321dave   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 03:35pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Vaho,
That was very unfortunate. Pity the fastening design for the undertray wasn't better. The original quick release setup wasn't better!
cruiserphil   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 03:49pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
321 Dave,

It was improved on the 3.0 HDi.

Best regards,

Phil C.
vaho   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 05:22pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
The old pipe had some moisture around other places as well so this is now sorted out. Haven' t had a proper chance to look how they repaired it, took a quick look and according what they said, they cut the damaged pipe and made a joint out of hydraulic rubber tube which they fastened with jubilee clips. They assured me it would hold. The low pressure side is fastened with ordinary clips in other parts also so they are most likely right.
The other thing is that the replacement does not require lowering the subframe so it is perfectly doable, only right kind of tools must be used for not damaging the bolts. It might be different with right hand cars though.
321dave   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 06:09pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Vaho, must take a proper look again at my own pipe, haven't looked properly. I do have a slow leak on the high pressure side. Did the garage lower the subframe as you previously mentioned? It does look tight for access. Did you replace the pipe listed as no1 Phil by any chance?
cruiserphil   
Wed Apr 26 2017, 06:25pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
321Dave,

No. I haven't done any work on the power steering piping.

Best regards,

Phil C.
vaho   
Thu Apr 27 2017, 06:22am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
Lowering the subframe is not needed, the garage told me that they did lower it however because of the damaged bolt. It may be that they only said that to charge more money but after they ruined the new installed pipe that train was gone for them. The only bolt that is hard to get to is really the one on the steering rack but it is not impossible. As said I managed to fit the wrench to it myself and turn it also (car put in highest position and driven onto the wooden blocks and me lying under it), the only thing I did not know was that it is torx T40 so with T30 it just rounded the hole and it did not turn. It is very tight around the rack connection but doable. All the other connections and bolts are no problem at all. All this goes for the left hand cars ofcourse. Right hand ones have the the pipes running to the other side and even if you manage to open the steering rack connection it may be that there is not enough space to remove the pipes.
321dave   
Thu Apr 27 2017, 06:46am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Vaho, thats good news thank you. I finally removed the famous rusty coolant pipe that goes down besides the gearbox in place after many attempts in one piece, but it was a difficult job. Wouldnt look forward to attempting that pipe again! But it will never rust out again like the old pipe. So it was worth the effort in the end.
vaho   
Thu Apr 27 2017, 10:17am
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
About the coolant pipe - mine is somwhere in time in Germany also repaired with rubber hose and jubilee clips. No problems with it whatsoever.
keithc   
Thu Apr 27 2017, 11:09am
Joined: Apr 03 2016
Member No: #2584
Location: Kildare
321dave wrote ...

.......I finally removed the famous rusty coolant pipe that goes down besides the gearbox in place after many attempts in one piece........


Hi Dave, have you any pictures of this or where to look as I'd like to check the condition of mine but not not sure how to do so?
gmerry   
Thu Apr 27 2017, 01:24pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Keith, have a look at this ancient thread on the rusty coolant pipe - Click Here -
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