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changing the disc pads

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alanr7   
Sun Oct 30 2016, 07:04pm
Joined: Dec 01 2010
Member No: #304
Location: manchester
hi what is the best way to change the disc pads my plan was to jack up a wheel at a time and change the pads any tips would be welcome many thanks Alan
David Hallworth   
Sun Oct 30 2016, 07:53pm

Joined: Apr 16 2010
Member No: #90
Location: Glasgow
That's probably the best way. Try and avoid jacking it on the jacking points if using a trolley jack as they'll probably bend and distort. I usually try and jack on the subframe.

If you're going to do work on the car though, it's best to put it on axle stands... Not saying I always do, in fact I rarely do but it's good practice to stop the car coming down on you if the seal on the jack gives.

David.
Trainman   
Mon Oct 31 2016, 04:04pm

Joined: Apr 12 2010
Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham
Alan,

the front's are easy, they can be pushed back and the pads changed, the back ones have to be wound back.
gmerry   
Mon Oct 31 2016, 07:12pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Alan, I'm not wanting to lecture here but will try and help....

Changing the brake pads is a misnomer, really what you are doing is a brake service.

First of all you need some good tools:-

For the front, you will need a 13mm ring spanner (I use a Hex spanner not a bi-hex) to undo the pad screws, and a very thin 15mm open ender to stop the slider pins rotating. You will need scrapers, file and wire brushes to clean up the caliper brackets. You need a method of assessing the wear on the disks and if these are too thin, spotted or grooved they will need replacement.

The new pads are thicker than the old worn pads so you will need to push the pistons back into their housing - a g clamp will normally work. A rooky mistake (or a rough mechanic) is to push the old dirty fluid back into the hydraulics. People wonder why their expensive ABS block fails. So you need to open the bleed screw as you retract the pistons which means you need a single hex 8mm (possibly 9mm) spanner, clear tubing and a jar to catch the displaced hydraulic fluid.

To fit the pads, you need to lubricate the static surfaces so that they slide and dampen any vibration. Obviously the friction surfaces need to be scrupulously clean and for this its a good idea to give the disks a wipe with brake and clutch cleaner. The brake lube must be a specialist grease, I recommend Pagid grease as being very good for this job.

The stainless caliper clips need to be removed and the cast iron of the caliper scraped clean and any raised corrosion removed with a special file (with a safe edge).

When refitting the pad screws, you need to use new screws (M8, 13mm hex head) which should be supplied with the pads or remove all traces of the old threadlocker, degrease and apply a coating of the correct Loktite product.

Take your time, rebleed the calipers when you have finished. Then follow the pad makers run-in procedure.

Finally, to answer your question, I raise the front of the car and then do each step of the above procedure back and forth on the two front wheels.
Take your time and do this job carefully!!!!

Note, its a personal thing but I avoid sockets and ratchets and do everything with spanners where possible. You get a much better feel for the job.
vaho   
Mon Oct 31 2016, 07:38pm
Joined: Jun 25 2015
Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn
I agree 100%. If I wanted to add something is to allways check the slider pins/bolts and their rubber seals. They should move in and out easily with just pulling and pushing with fingers, if not, take them out, clean and regrease or change alltogether. It is inexpensive but very crucial part, if they stick the brake pads do not retract and the the whole wheel overheats due to friction. I have experienced that even professional mechanics do not check that, bought a C4 some time ago that was fully Citroen serviced but the slider pins were so stuck that it took me some brutal force and hammering to get them out, needless to say the cause to even check them was that the rims were getting very hot after some time of driving.
gmerry   
Mon Oct 31 2016, 09:25pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Alan, not sure how you are placed for spanners but attached link is for a set of Britool single hex (6 point) spanners. - Click Here -

I have an equivalent set made by Snapon which was several times more expensive but these Britool one will be very good too.

I find the single hex spanners are my "go to" tools which I use for 90% of jobs for initial breaking of the locking torque or final tightening. I then use a ratchet spanner or socket for the low torque loosening etc.

Good tools are worth every penny. Also with Citroen, you need all the sizes without gaps because Citroen use loads of 18mm nuts not just standard 17mm and 19mm etc etc
gmerry   
Tue Nov 01 2016, 07:51am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Additional point on the thin 15mm open ended spanner to stop the slider pins rotating. Don't use this until you have broken the torque on the screws holding the pads. The 15mm spanner needs to be 6,5mm thick. The easiest way of getting such a spanner is to buy a cheapish single and then grind the thickness down with an angle grinder. Something like this would be fine - Click Here -

Obviously you wouldn't grind down your "good" spanners!
e3steve   
Wed Nov 02 2016, 07:36am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
gmerry wrote ...

Additional point on the thin 15mm open ended spanner to stop the slider pins rotating. Don't use this until you have broken the torque on the screws holding the pads. The 15mm spanner needs to be 6,5mm thick. The easiest way of getting such a spanner is to buy a cheapish single and then grind the thickness down with an angle grinder. Something like this would be fine - Click Here -

Obviously you wouldn't grind down your "good" spanners!

My Snap-On 15mm just fits, width-wise. Unlike you, Gordon, I slip the 15 onto the floating pin, then use a 13 "rodent-dropping" ring end on the hex-head machine screw/bolt, offset enough to fit my hands, then just squeeze the two shafts, counter-torquing them until the screwthreads crack off.

Also, I'm not fazed by Snap-On bi-hex ring-spaniards or sockets, as they're 'flank-drive'; you'll never round off a hex nut with them!

I started collecting mine in '81...
 

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